understand tried to. head hurts muchly.

OK. So what would be the typical oil temp for a stock daily drive or is there too much possible variation to call? Lets assume ambient air temp 104F & 50% stop start city & 50% freeway driving, no racing.

For the Russell M14x1.5 side, did you use a o-ring or a copper washer? I'm getting prepared to install my kit soon. :)

I used Teflon tape on the fitting

Has anyone confirmed this application in an AT? Are the parts required exactly the same? Anyone have pictures from an AT of where that plug is? Thanks in advance!

No, the current instructions are MT only. AT doesn't have a plug because that plug is a pipe that goes to the ATF cooler.

Does anyone know if the line coming off that plug to the ATF cooler is a hard line or a hose that can be T'd?

Subbed, this mod has been added to my list of mods and with the price being pretty low this will probably be likely to be done, especially since lower oil temps should prolong engine life. Great write up!

I imagine looking at an AT FXT would be helpful in determining how to go about how to install in an AT BRZ. I am also driving an AT brz and want this mod. Unforunately the BRZ is my only car (read DD) so I am not likely to experiment around and be a guinea pig, things would be different if the BRZ was a second car. I hope this is figured out relatively soon! I was planning on springs for my next mod, but at the price for the oil cooler, this might be first.

I'm in the states on vacation and would like to pick up the parts for the oil cooler mod if it's compatible with the 6AT. If someone with an AT could just take a photo from under the car of the area near the driver side exhaust manifold, like this image

https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hpho...17589516_n.jpg

@CARNZ

I was curious as to why you chose to put the oil cooler in parallel to the heater and not in series? I am a newbie to car mechanics, and ignorant of many things (which I am enjoying fixing all that with my BRZ), so please don't skewer me if it is an "obvious" reason. This mod looks pretty easy and fun to do, the low cost makes this easier to do sooner rather than later too.

Awesome!! Thanks for making it OEM! Also, this should give a big F you to all the manufacturers that are trying to sell their kits when this OEM setup obviously is the better choice!

Installed mine today. Used all three metal pipes from the Forester, including the one along side the motor that CARNZ didn't use.

Pics:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...113_123355.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...113_123949.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...113_134134.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...113_152924.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...113_155816.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...113_155857.jpg

Final install pic:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...113_155747.jpg

Few things to note:

1) Make sure you know how to refil the coolant in this car, its different from normal and takes awhile. Use this thread for reference: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9883

2) The fitting I used for plug on the block was difficult to install. Better off going with a single piece like CARNZ did or doing this job when the header is removed. The 45 degree angle worked great though.

3) I'm actually not a fan of the Forester heater hose now... It has too many differences from the BRZ. The end under the motor is angled oddly, and the end up above almost hits the firewall. Its also a pain to install the bolt on the rear and too expensive and also backordered until febuary! Just go with a T-fitting like I said before and save yourself some money and trouble...

4) The pipe along side the block that CARNZ didn't use, I understand why he didn't use it, there isn't much space in there. You also need small hands to get between the block and the head to install the top bolt for the pipe. HOWEVER once it is installed, it is easy to bend into a different position for the best clearance possible. I just used a phillips screwdriver to do so and it fits perfectly now. I do recommend unplugging the wiring harness for more room at first.

5) Its not really mentioned, but you need to tweak the exit line on the Oil Cooler a little, bend it towards the front of the car a little for better clearance, otherwise the ignition cover is in the way on the BRZ/FRS.


I will get some numbers on it soon enough. But it looks nice and factory in the engine bay with my install so I'm happy :)

So I've come up with a few modifications that I plan to do when I get around to installing this on my AT car. Let me know if this sounds reasonable or if I'm way off-base here.

- Presumably, MT cars have a block-off plug whereas AT cars have a hose fitted already for the AT cooler. We can T off that hose (1/2" on all three fittings) for the oil cooler feed line.

- Rather than replacing the FR-S water pipe with the FXT one, we can T off the bigger hose on the end of the pipe that has one connection (aka the hose that gets pulled off in step 8 of @CARNZ's how-to). I don't know how big of a T we would need here, other than the middle connection would be 3/8". It looks like that hose is 1/2" or 3/4".

So my theoretical parts list looks like CARNZ's, minus the FXT water pipe, plus two T connectors and a bunch more hose clamps. Does this sound right? What's the diameter of that bigger hose I mentioned? What material should the T fittings be made out of? Should I be looking at plastic ones or something more substantial?

That's weird that you had an issue installing the water pipe bolt for the FXT pipe, mine lined up perfectly and was very simple to install. Strange :iono:

As for #5 I didn't have to tweak my oil cooler at all either. When it sits in the cup on the chain cover you can turn it to the left or right a mm or two and that was enough to allow me to mount it and install the hoses without obstruction.


Either way, good work on getting it installed!

That sounds about right.

Plastic should be fine but metal would be safer of course. The bleeder fitting on the heater hose is plastic.

Part numbers for hoses, pipes, clamps and bolts that CARNZ didn't use?

very cool.. thanks for being the guinea pig.. :).. Me and some friends looked at it when the new forester came out and thought it would work. GOOD JOB..

Bill

So I installed my cooler today. If you want to tee into the hose instead of buying the heater pipe, you need a 3/4"x3/4"x3/8" tee. I actually ended up using 3/4"x3/4"x1/2" tee and was able to slip the 3/8 hose onto the 1/2 line. The 3/8" line runs to the exit of the cooler. I bought the hard line for the exit side that runs next to the injector cover and didn't end up using it because after teeing that line, the bottom of the hard line runs too close to that line and it would make for an awkward fit for hose, so I don't recommend it.

Ps I hate coolant lol.

Thanks for that. Where did you get your tee connector? Also did you go with plastic or metal?

Pics?

Yo, I may as well ask again, what are the part number for the 2 hoses, 4 clamps, 2 bolts and the pipe that you used but CARNZ didn't?

Thanks for the help but 21317aa070 bolts the oil cooler to the engine as previously mentioned.
The other 2 numbers you have listed only covers one hose and one pipe so it doesn't cover all of what I've been asking for the last 2 weeks.

I gotcha. I don't have the lower hose though.

upper hose: 807609071
Hard pipe: 21328AA230
Clamps (4): 092315002

The bolts you don't need. They are already present on the side of the block. I didn't know that though so I ordered them (808206010).

If you are looking to buy this stuff, I purchased all of it (minus the lower hose) but didn't use it. PM me if you want em.

I bought it at lowes, here: 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/2" Tee

Its brass. I actually found a 3/4x3/4x3/8 plastic tee, but the 3/4 side was too big. it must have been 3/4 OD. I was pretty bummed because I thought it was going to work perfect lol.

Heres a pic of it for reference (disregard the other barb fitting in the line. I had bought a 1/2-3/8 barb reducer but didn't use it):

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...psff7d9daf.jpg

Doesn't look pretty (and it bothers me a LOT), but no leaks so whatever. I thought i'd bought the right clamps but the ones on that stock line are bigger, but i was able to get the clamps i bought on there. was very tight but it got the job done.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...psd881def4.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...ps9e3c192d.jpg

I also looped my heater hose around the lower rad because using a straight fitting makes it hard to bend the line and i didn't want it to kink.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...ps8c693341.jpg

Thats one of the main reasons why I didn't do a t-fitting.

I wanted it to look and fit like stock.

Props for getting it done though.

Glad to see a lot of input from others on this topic, plenty ways to put this application to reality.

Agreed, but I didn't feel like waiting until February to put this in as I wanted it for winter lol. When the hard pipe comes into stock, i'll order it (already put an order for it actually), and i'll probably swap it out.

Thanks again for the initial DIY.

One thing I hate, is the exit line. It legit sits on the damn injector cover. I was looking at the STi concept and noticed on that cooler that the exit off the cooler is further towards the front of the car.

Just a little update:

No leaks, everything is good.

Just from taking a peek at my P3 Gauge, oil temps are a few degrees cooler. I usually see a high of 206 when cruising on the highway (and this is in colder temps, it was like 55 today on the way to work), and today I saw nothing higher than 203. Normal driving around town it sits under 200, 198-199.

Coolant is also 2 degrees down, was ALWAYS on 194, now its at 192.

Nothing crazy, but its doing something. Can't wait to see how it reacts in the summer, as I saw 215-219 then. I can imagine once it gets even colder that the oil temp will not touch 200 degrees.

I need to do this. My track temps for oil were over 250F. I plan on doing this at the same time as the mishimoto radiator.

edit: I can't read...

There's a step by step diy in the first post.

You're exactly right. I was so excited by the post I skipped right past it...

Now I know what is wrong, you embedded Facebook photos on your first post. Those don't load on chrome for some reason. Either way now I can see the photos in a different browsers, helps big time!

strange, I use Chrome and everything shows up for me :iono:

I just figured it out! I had a rogue chrome plugin that was blocking ads attack cross posted urls from Facebook. Anyways I'm ordering these parts after work, I hope the back order isn't tremendous.

I'm working on re-hosting the pictures now, since you are not the first person to mention the issue with viewing them

Done, uploaded all of the pics to TinyPic and edited my post to link to those photos now, shouldn't have anymore issues.

Cheap
 

I've seen a couple of ideas bouncing around here on how to make this a little cheaper. I love the idea of this and for the most part it looks great, but some of the OEM parts listed aren't perfect.

This is what I came up with for the cheapest way to do it, not sure if you will follow, or if it would actually work because I haven't done it, but it sounds good to me.

I think you have to start with the 21311AA170 - OIL COOLER, COMPLETE at $135 and 21317AA070 - CONNECTOR, OIL COOLER at $30.

I would then run silicone heater hose from the cooler plate, down the front of the block and to the 6mm allen plug you removed in step 5. Say 2 feet of hose here at $4.12/lf is $8.24. http://www.hps-siliconehoses.com/thr..._store=default.

I'd get a 2-pack of 5/8" rubber insulated clamps to use on the front of the engine to keep everything organized, $1.68 http://t.homedepot.com/p/5-8-in-Rubb...792/100130546/.

Brass barbed fitting for $5.94 http://www.mscdirect.com/product/80258445. (I am looking for an alterative for this, has anyone found another option? This seems like the most difficult piece of the puzzle.)

Hose clamp for each end of that hose at $0.89/ea for total of $1.78 http://t.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-...595/100198182/.

Now, to tie the line coming out of the cooler, back into the circulating coolant line. The bottom/front end of BRZ water pipe only has a 3/4" inlet, the FXT had a 3/8" and 3/4" inlet so you could tie into it. So, I would cut into the existing 3/4" heater hose half way between the elbow and the 3/4" inlet and install a tee, the 3/4"x3/4"x3/8" tee is $2.16 at Home Depot http://t.homedepot.com/p/SharkBite-3...i_src=17588969

Say another 2 ft of that 3/8" hose noted above to bring you down to the tee @ $8.24.

You will need 4 more of the hose clamps as noted above for the 3 connections on the tee and the cooler plate outlet at $0.89/ea, total of $3.56.

So grand total, without shipping or tax included, $196.60. That's under $200, slightly ghetto, but should work.

Back to drinking.:cheers:

EDIT: Upon closer inspection this has basically been done by xxscaxx here. Doesnt look as bad as it did in my head. 1/2" heater hose is probably easier to find and is cheap. I highly recommend using a real hose clamp whenever you remove a factory one, real hose clamps are cheap and infinitely reusable, the factory only uses that style clamp for quick installation, real hose clamps will provide a better seal. I have removed and reinstalled several hoses including transmission lines, I've had leaks with real hose clamps and ended up doubling up hose clamps on the connection to crush the problem.

Sounds about right for the cheap option.

I'm really tempted to pull off the hard pipe I installed put the original one back on and do it this way. the rubbing of the hose at the top of the back pipe has me concerned.

Those factory clamps might be for "easy installation" but of all my years owning a car, i've never had one of those style clamps leak on me. I will take one of those over the typical hose clamp that digs into the line any day.

If you buy the proper sized factory clamp as above, it isn't going to leak.


was 25 degrees this morning, oil temp at cruising speed around town (40-50mph) = 194.