Always glad to see results from everyone. I had originally planned to do a oil temp warmup log of before and after the installation of the OEM Cooler/Warmer, but forgot until after I had it already installed lol

Gathering parts for this at the moment. It's a good, cold winter for some oil warm-up.

I've stumbled upon better deals for Subaru parts than what's listed here (30% off msrp) too, and will post how when I get the chance to confirm.

is this the first track data in this thread? i think it might be. thanks, awesome to see! won't be trying mine out for a while. what other mods do you have on the car?

Any thoughts/predictions on how this would perform on a supercharged FRS/BRZ with ambient temps of 100-105F (38-40C) with the same 20 min session on the track? Would the OEM coolant/radiator still be able to regulate the oil temp at the same levels?

I just got this installed. It was quite messy with the coolant spilling out from the hoses, other than that is not too bad at all. I did it on my buddy's lift so it was much easier, couldn't imagine doing that on my back...

When I read the how-to, I thought it was only a little bit of coolant but it was way more. One gallon of the Subaru coolant was not quite enough, luckily my buddy has some distilled water to top it off, maybe 1/4 qt of that.

Um, careful with that... You aren't supposed to mix water with the Superblue Subaru coolant. Its 50/50 already.

Hi dj2020.

These oil regulators are used on the WRX STIs (turbo) and the Forester Turbo Diesels so I think the regulator probably does enough heat transfer. The question is whether the radiator can dispel that much heat. The answer is that you should try it and see. Get a cheap OBD2 reader and log the results to see if it is working (and hopefully publish them here for other people).

A good trick is as soon as you have finished driving hard turn on the Air Conditioner as it will engage both the radiator fans and you will be able to dispel much more heat whilst moving slowly.

Cheers

Kraftwerks supercharger with upgraded radiator and mishimoto thermostat. Coolant temp sits at 170ish F with oil sitting at 185F. I will do more testing when I get time. I hope the lower opening temp will allow the radiator to stop a run away oil temp.

Anyone here running this cooler via the throttle body lines? Have you noticed any improvements in keeping temps down? Logic says the oem way will be better as the TB lines are too small, but I'm trying to gather more reviews to see how the "easy" setup compares to the oem setup in terms of overall performance.

bruh the vid http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=73684

I have one installed and ran to the TB lines.. here's a 3rd log- http://datazap.me/u/koa/3rd-pull-stg...t86sfv2-012516

otemps don't veer past 215 even after 10-15mins of 3/4 load runs

This oil cooler operates better with a lower temp thermostat as bigger radiator as expected. The oil temps are 15F higher than coolant temps on average and the cooler coolant temps are able to bring oil temps down. Now I don't know if there is a runaway if oil temps get too high, but I will have to test on the highway soon.

Ambient temps were 75F, this is city driving.

Attachment 102184

Logs via TB method in Winter. I back off for a lap when I see 248/120. So once running that means 1 hot lap, one slow lap, repeat.

http://datazap.me/u/wayne/206-stg2-u...g=0&data=1-8-9

http://datazap.me/u/wayne/206-stg2-u...=0&data=1-9-10

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...4xRVvvU-lG8xlG

For AT owners, consider simply plumbing the cooler in series before the ATF heat exchanger (on the water side of course), or just the TB. It's better than nothing. No T fittings either way. Obviously the lines are much longer from down near the ATF HE, so the pressure won't be great.

I have an air/ATF cooler in series on the oil side, before the ATF HE.

Don't go deleting the ATF HE (tempting). It's does barely any cooling, it's mostly for warming the AT up faster (important).

Don't waste money on a huge, expensive radiator for NA when t-stat is barely open, unless you log 203F/95C.

Don't get a lower temp t-stat and dropping your coolant temp below what the engineers designed for the block.

The good news for lower t-stat is it looks like the ECU gives you full timing above 140F, but that would need to be tested and logged.

So, what's the difference between these two? 14050AA970 OR 14050AB090 - PIPE, WATER

AB090 was a substitute for AA970 because of huge backorders when this was initially written. Since then, supply of the AA970 pipe has been consistent, I left the AB090 pipe up there for reference.


AA970 = early 2014 FXT, AB090 = late 2014-present FXT

They should be basically the same pipe, I've looked at newer FXTs and haven't noticed a difference.

Any updates in potential alternative parts now that the 2015 WRX has been out for a while?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Its the same as the Forester.

I didn't see this in the thread, but would a local auto parts store have the generic 3/8" and 1/2" heater hose? Anywhere I see it online, the shipping is as much or more than the actual parts.

Would have really loved to use this upgrade but i can't as the allen fitting sits right where the turbo's oil return passes by. Looks like im stuck with the cusco for triple the price. Unless anyone knows of any alternatives :clap:

You can replicate Cusco kit.
That is what I did. I even spent less money than OEM kit.

Care to elaborate, any specific couplins to connect the coolant hoses, banjo bolts?

I used two 40mm water temp adapter. I tapped bigger thread which is 1/4 npt on existing 1/8 npt thread of water temp adapter. For fitting solution, I used 1/4 npt to AN fitting coupled with 90 deg angle.

Following is list of parts that I used.

- Subaru OEM oil cooler 21311AA170
($131.47 @ suparu parts depot)
- Oil cooler Connector 21317AA070
($29.14 @ Subaru parts depot)
They added shipping of $3.99 for those OEM parts

- 3' of 1/2" ID heater hose
- 2' of 3/8"ID heater hose
- 40mm Water temp adapter x 2
($15 @ eBay for pair)

- 1/4"NPT TO #8 FLARE
(555-100105 $2.99 @ jegs.com)
- 1/4"NPT TO #6 FLARE
(555-100104 $2.99 @ jegs.com)
-#8 90° HOSE END PUSH LOC
(555-100072 $13.99 @ jegs.com)
- #6 90° HOSE END PUSH LOC
(555-100071 $10.99 @ jegs.com)

:coolpics::w00t: Thanks man, really appreicate all that. Hell of a nice job.

I didn't see this in the thread, but would a local auto parts store have the generic 3/8" and 1/2" heater hose? Anywhere I see it online, the shipping is as much or more than the actual parts. (posted this before but it got buried by a bunch of new posts right after)

Yes.
Most of them sells those two sizes.

Also call your local store to find out and make sure. Each local store has different stock status. It may be better for you to check nearby stores than asking here :) , but I would assume its not hard to find one in local store.

@nunonuna, I am afraid you blue your engine bay.

http://i2.cdnds.net/13/21/618x411/us...lue-myself.jpg

Nothing for you to worry about~
It is already blued. I can't even think of any more parts could be blued. Lol I prefer to have color matched parts than Skittles in engine bay.

Thanks for the parts list. Question, was the 40mm water temp adapter a really tight fit for the radiator hoses? Would the 38mm water temp adapters be a better option or do you think they would be too loose. I'm gonna be gathering up the parts real soon. Thanks again!

In my case, 40mm was better than 38mm. It was very tight fit but 38mm adapter was loose, but I used mishimoto hose at the same time so I don't know if 38mm fits better for stock hose.

Looks like you are bypassing the radiator. Probably not the most efficient way to cool oil. Nice for warming up the oil when cold though but only after the engine is already warmed up and the thermostat is open.

A little confused here by your comment, isn't this setup like the Cusco, so then neither setup cools the oil?

It does cools oil temp. As far as I know, there are 3 ways for water oil cooler. OEM that replicates forester, Cusco & one that uses throttle body warmer line. All 3 set ups are claimed by many members that it works. There may be a difference, but I would assume the differences are subtle among those.

I notice that you have turbo so I guess those may not work as good as air oil cooler with thermostatic sandwich plate.

I was considering this setup due to some space limitations with my intake pipe. So you think it'll be better to run an air cooler instead. I figured since this is cools all the time it would help with traffic cooling.

This setup is not optimal as there would be flow only when the thermostat is open and it is bypassing the radiator.


There is a reason they put a plug on the block for oil cooler.

For some reason i'm not getting it, darn it. I see the picture and the lower coolant hose(cold water)fitting seems to not be connected or going somwhere that the Cusco doesn't go to. So until operating water temp is reached the oil cooler wont see any activity, as the radiator. Then if the oil isnt up to temp the t-stat in the cooler(given this cooler has a t-stat) wont allow the water to flow to cool the oil or these coolers dont have t-stats and depend the cars thermostat to control flow?

PS- went to educate myself on the cooling system.. so the cool water goes in the bottom and out the top.

Correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't the water in the block circulate, and there for through the OEM style oil cooler, because of the water pump whether the radiator thermostat is open or not?

That's my understanding too. And from personal experience, the oil does warm up quicker with the Forester-style cooler (compared to stock).

This is correct. If you use the plug on the block to get the coolant and return it somewhere in the heater circuit it will circulate regardless of the thermostat. But if you are getting and returning the coolant from/to the radiator hoses.... it will work only when the thermostat is open.

But wouldn't it still work as a radiator bypass then? Sorry if I'm asking dumb questions.

no.. the cooler is tapped into the radiator hoses. Therefore the argument is, when the t-stat is not open, the oil cooler isn't receiving any coolant.

no bypass here?

Trust me you're not the only one.. Wouldn't what work as a radiator bypass the oem oil cooler? If using the Cusco which simply taps to the coolant hoses then it'll only allow for oil cooling when the car's thermostat has opened but then this wouldn't allow for the oil to get hotter quicker during warm up as its just getting the colder water from the radiator. So then the Cusco uses the coolant to cool the oil but not to warm it up unlike the OEM one which gets the coolant from the block so it'll warm up quicker and then keep it cool once the thermostat opens. All this crap im writing is a question im asking trying to answer it self. Feel free to correct lol. Thanks