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-   -   Installed/How-To: 2014 Forester XT OEM Oil Cooler(pics!) (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50427)

CARNZ 11-18-2013 06:53 PM

I'm working on re-hosting the pictures now, since you are not the first person to mention the issue with viewing them

CARNZ 11-18-2013 07:01 PM

Done, uploaded all of the pics to TinyPic and edited my post to link to those photos now, shouldn't have anymore issues.

Philly758 11-19-2013 10:26 PM

Cheap
 
I've seen a couple of ideas bouncing around here on how to make this a little cheaper. I love the idea of this and for the most part it looks great, but some of the OEM parts listed aren't perfect.

This is what I came up with for the cheapest way to do it, not sure if you will follow, or if it would actually work because I haven't done it, but it sounds good to me.

I think you have to start with the 21311AA170 - OIL COOLER, COMPLETE at $135 and 21317AA070 - CONNECTOR, OIL COOLER at $30.

I would then run silicone heater hose from the cooler plate, down the front of the block and to the 6mm allen plug you removed in step 5. Say 2 feet of hose here at $4.12/lf is $8.24. http://www.hps-siliconehoses.com/thr..._store=default.

I'd get a 2-pack of 5/8" rubber insulated clamps to use on the front of the engine to keep everything organized, $1.68 http://t.homedepot.com/p/5-8-in-Rubb...792/100130546/.

Brass barbed fitting for $5.94 http://www.mscdirect.com/product/80258445. (I am looking for an alterative for this, has anyone found another option? This seems like the most difficult piece of the puzzle.)

Hose clamp for each end of that hose at $0.89/ea for total of $1.78 http://t.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-...595/100198182/.

Now, to tie the line coming out of the cooler, back into the circulating coolant line. The bottom/front end of BRZ water pipe only has a 3/4" inlet, the FXT had a 3/8" and 3/4" inlet so you could tie into it. So, I would cut into the existing 3/4" heater hose half way between the elbow and the 3/4" inlet and install a tee, the 3/4"x3/4"x3/8" tee is $2.16 at Home Depot http://t.homedepot.com/p/SharkBite-3...i_src=17588969

Say another 2 ft of that 3/8" hose noted above to bring you down to the tee @ $8.24.

You will need 4 more of the hose clamps as noted above for the 3 connections on the tee and the cooler plate outlet at $0.89/ea, total of $3.56.

So grand total, without shipping or tax included, $196.60. That's under $200, slightly ghetto, but should work.

Back to drinking.:cheers:

EDIT: Upon closer inspection this has basically been done by xxscaxx here. Doesnt look as bad as it did in my head. 1/2" heater hose is probably easier to find and is cheap. I highly recommend using a real hose clamp whenever you remove a factory one, real hose clamps are cheap and infinitely reusable, the factory only uses that style clamp for quick installation, real hose clamps will provide a better seal. I have removed and reinstalled several hoses including transmission lines, I've had leaks with real hose clamps and ended up doubling up hose clamps on the connection to crush the problem.

Quote:

Originally Posted by xxscaxx (Post 1336923)
I bought it at lowes, here: 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/2" Tee

Its brass. I actually found a 3/4x3/4x3/8 plastic tee, but the 3/4 side was too big. it must have been 3/4 OD. I was pretty bummed because I thought it was going to work perfect lol.

Heres a pic of it for reference (disregard the other barb fitting in the line. I had bought a 1/2-3/8 barb reducer but didn't use it):

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...psff7d9daf.jpg



Doesn't look pretty (and it bothers me a LOT), but no leaks so whatever. I thought i'd bought the right clamps but the ones on that stock line are bigger, but i was able to get the clamps i bought on there. was very tight but it got the job done.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...psd881def4.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...ps9e3c192d.jpg

I also looped my heater hose around the lower rad because using a straight fitting makes it hard to bend the line and i didn't want it to kink.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...ps8c693341.jpg


Kostamojen 11-20-2013 01:18 AM

Sounds about right for the cheap option.

Malt 11-20-2013 04:51 PM

I'm really tempted to pull off the hard pipe I installed put the original one back on and do it this way. the rubbing of the hose at the top of the back pipe has me concerned.

xxscaxx 11-21-2013 01:22 PM

Those factory clamps might be for "easy installation" but of all my years owning a car, i've never had one of those style clamps leak on me. I will take one of those over the typical hose clamp that digs into the line any day.

If you buy the proper sized factory clamp as above, it isn't going to leak.


was 25 degrees this morning, oil temp at cruising speed around town (40-50mph) = 194.

post_break 11-21-2013 01:36 PM

On the fitting that has the 6mm plug, what are you putting on the new barb? Teflon tape?

autobrz 11-21-2013 03:30 PM

quick question to verify...
Is the hose on the cooler inlet (passenger side) 1/2"? So for AT, I would get a 1/2 x 1/2 x 1/2 T fitting?
On the driver side, can I T into either side of the BRZ water pipe that Carnz replaced? I'm guessing both sides have a 3/4" hose, right?

can I use oem hose clamps on the T fittings or is it better to use the snake hose clamps?

Kostamojen 11-21-2013 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by post_break (Post 1344703)
On the fitting that has the 6mm plug, what are you putting on the new barb? Teflon tape?

I just used some Subaru OEM Threebond on the threads. Works about the same.

xxscaxx 11-22-2013 05:49 PM

^ I used teflon tape.
@autobrz - yes that line is 1/2. Not sure what T's you will need though since your AT. You can use any kind of clamp you want - I like the oem ones which is why I used them.

Some installed photos:


http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2891/1...4f662430_o.jpg

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5527/1...cc48383c_o.jpg

Philly758 11-23-2013 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xxscaxx (Post 1344672)
Those factory clamps might be for "easy installation" but of all my years owning a car, i've never had one of those style clamps leak on me. I will take one of those over the typical hose clamp that digs into the line any day.

If you buy the proper sized factory clamp as above, it isn't going to leak.


was 25 degrees this morning, oil temp at cruising speed around town (40-50mph) = 194.

I'm sure they factory clamps will work fine. I just had an issue once and am more confident with the screw type clamp.

Nice install! I Like the wire loom on the hose for a little more protection.

xxscaxx 11-24-2013 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Philly758 (Post 1349158)
I'm sure they factory clamps will work fine. I just had an issue once and am more confident with the screw type clamp.

Nice install! I Like the wire loom on the hose for a little more protection.

Different strokes for different folks :D

Thanks, I did it also to kind of hide the line better. Well, "blend" it better with the rest of the loom. I wish I had bought the nylon braided hose cover for it though like what came on my supercharger lines (or like whats on the fuel lines).

autobrz 11-25-2013 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xxscaxx (Post 1350196)
I wish I had bought the nylon braided hose cover for it though like what came on my supercharger lines (or like whats on the fuel lines).

are there local stores that carry nylon braided hose sleeves?

xxscaxx 11-25-2013 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by autobrz (Post 1351850)
are there local stores that carry nylon braided hose sleeves?

not too sure honestly. I know you can get it from here though http://www.techflex.com/


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