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Subbed, this mod has been added to my list of mods and with the price being pretty low this will probably be likely to be done, especially since lower oil temps should prolong engine life. Great write up!
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I'm in the states on vacation and would like to pick up the parts for the oil cooler mod if it's compatible with the 6AT. If someone with an AT could just take a photo from under the car of the area near the driver side exhaust manifold, like this image
https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hpho...17589516_n.jpg |
@CARNZ
I was curious as to why you chose to put the oil cooler in parallel to the heater and not in series? I am a newbie to car mechanics, and ignorant of many things (which I am enjoying fixing all that with my BRZ), so please don't skewer me if it is an "obvious" reason. This mod looks pretty easy and fun to do, the low cost makes this easier to do sooner rather than later too. |
Awesome!! Thanks for making it OEM! Also, this should give a big F you to all the manufacturers that are trying to sell their kits when this OEM setup obviously is the better choice!
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Installed mine today. Used all three metal pipes from the Forester, including the one along side the motor that CARNZ didn't use.
Pics: http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...113_123355.jpg http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...113_123949.jpg http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...113_134134.jpg http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...113_152924.jpg http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...113_155816.jpg http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...113_155857.jpg Final install pic: http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...113_155747.jpg Few things to note: 1) Make sure you know how to refil the coolant in this car, its different from normal and takes awhile. Use this thread for reference: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9883 2) The fitting I used for plug on the block was difficult to install. Better off going with a single piece like CARNZ did or doing this job when the header is removed. The 45 degree angle worked great though. 3) I'm actually not a fan of the Forester heater hose now... It has too many differences from the BRZ. The end under the motor is angled oddly, and the end up above almost hits the firewall. Its also a pain to install the bolt on the rear and too expensive and also backordered until febuary! Just go with a T-fitting like I said before and save yourself some money and trouble... 4) The pipe along side the block that CARNZ didn't use, I understand why he didn't use it, there isn't much space in there. You also need small hands to get between the block and the head to install the top bolt for the pipe. HOWEVER once it is installed, it is easy to bend into a different position for the best clearance possible. I just used a phillips screwdriver to do so and it fits perfectly now. I do recommend unplugging the wiring harness for more room at first. 5) Its not really mentioned, but you need to tweak the exit line on the Oil Cooler a little, bend it towards the front of the car a little for better clearance, otherwise the ignition cover is in the way on the BRZ/FRS. I will get some numbers on it soon enough. But it looks nice and factory in the engine bay with my install so I'm happy :) |
So I've come up with a few modifications that I plan to do when I get around to installing this on my AT car. Let me know if this sounds reasonable or if I'm way off-base here.
- Presumably, MT cars have a block-off plug whereas AT cars have a hose fitted already for the AT cooler. We can T off that hose (1/2" on all three fittings) for the oil cooler feed line. - Rather than replacing the FR-S water pipe with the FXT one, we can T off the bigger hose on the end of the pipe that has one connection (aka the hose that gets pulled off in step 8 of @CARNZ's how-to). I don't know how big of a T we would need here, other than the middle connection would be 3/8". It looks like that hose is 1/2" or 3/4". So my theoretical parts list looks like CARNZ's, minus the FXT water pipe, plus two T connectors and a bunch more hose clamps. Does this sound right? What's the diameter of that bigger hose I mentioned? What material should the T fittings be made out of? Should I be looking at plastic ones or something more substantial? |
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As for #5 I didn't have to tweak my oil cooler at all either. When it sits in the cup on the chain cover you can turn it to the left or right a mm or two and that was enough to allow me to mount it and install the hoses without obstruction. Either way, good work on getting it installed! |
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Plastic should be fine but metal would be safer of course. The bleeder fitting on the heater hose is plastic. |
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very cool.. thanks for being the guinea pig.. :).. Me and some friends looked at it when the new forester came out and thought it would work. GOOD JOB..
Bill |
So I installed my cooler today. If you want to tee into the hose instead of buying the heater pipe, you need a 3/4"x3/4"x3/8" tee. I actually ended up using 3/4"x3/4"x1/2" tee and was able to slip the 3/8 hose onto the 1/2 line. The 3/8" line runs to the exit of the cooler. I bought the hard line for the exit side that runs next to the injector cover and didn't end up using it because after teeing that line, the bottom of the hard line runs too close to that line and it would make for an awkward fit for hose, so I don't recommend it.
Ps I hate coolant lol. |
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