When you alter it from its original design by lowering it, putting added stress on the axles, adding power, etc.. Something's going to give..
All the ones with issues seems to be the ones that have lowered theirs. I don't see that as an OEM issue.. Except that the stock axles aren't designed for more than stock loads, apparently.

i'm up 115 whp over stock, and while i haven't broken an axle yet, once i've got the clutch in, axles are going to be my next big purchase. want to prevent anything going boom

Not to dredge up an old topic, but my drivers side axle just broke at the collar in the diff. Dealer has not explained fully but they are blaming it on my coilovers set at stock height.

The angle at which the axle should be at from horizontal should be near horizontal. Also, they measured the height change from the wheel hub to diff and it should be no more than 1-2" (25.4 mm to 50.8 mm). These two lines are from the dealer over the phone.

Gotto pay to play I guess. Diff risers and subframe risers along with new axles will just have to do for me.

I don't think anyone has broken a passenger side one yet either.

I've only seen the Driver's side break, unless in extreme use (e.g. drag racing with DR's, boost, etc)

@sierra In your opinion could this also cause issues on stock suspension at stock height over time that is just sped up by the additional stresses of lowering keeping the axles pulled to their limit? Or should stock have enough length to stay safe even over bumps/etc?

Totally stock setup? What were you doing when it broke?

Had Fortune Auto coilovers on at slightly higher than stock rear height levels. Camber was corrected to stock camber by PSM LCA's. Matched the bolt holes of the PSM LCA to the bolt holes of the stock LCA. Same length for no fuss install.

Essentially I took a very nice right hander off the freeway at about 40 mph, as soon as I straightened out and let off the throttle, I heard a snapping sound and immediately fast clunking noises. Pulled off the road, checked engine sound and it was fine. Shifted through all my gears fine. But when I tried to take off again, the clunking continued. Jacked my car up and found the drivers side axle at the diff was sagging and easily moveable. Knew it from there that my axle popped out and/or broke at the diff. Turns out it broke because I couldn't pop it back in. :barf:

Basically ordered a new axle and diff risers to help. Hopefully...

Ive broke my left and right ride axle. Check the first post...

Did you have wheel hop when you were launching?

Nop... Ive dropped the clutch too hard at 4500 rpm with glue on the track. Ive feel the high grip feeling and right after the axle was gone.

So has anybody found a solution for this? I'm looking at getting some BC Racing coils and slamming the whip soon. TIA.

Powered by Max differ and subframe risers. Welding requires.

Dammit. I wish I didn't have to weld anything. Too bad there are no solid metal inserts for the mounts parallel to the driveshaft that pops into the rear subframe. Could I use a subframe bracing bar in conjunction to the risers?