Seat rail bolt part number?
 

I'm doing sound deadening installation, and taking out the seats to do it. I rounded off one of the bolt heads (pro tip - they are installed with about 800 million pounds of torque, and have tiny reverse torx heads. Why anyone ever thought to make a bolt with a narrower head than thread is beyond me, it seems like they went out of their way to make this difficult). I'm going to try using a bolt removal tool to get it out, but obviously I'm going to need a new bolt to go in its place, and I cant find the bolts in any of the part websites diagrams.

Any thoughts? I could always get something from the hardware store with the same thread pitch, but I will only be able to do hex, not the goofy torx with the fat lip around the head.

SU003-02815 and if I remember correctly they are about $3 aa bolt

The local stealership wanted $7.70/each, so I just added them to an Amayama order I was going to place anyway, at ~$2.0x/ea.

If anyone is wondering, the thread pattern is M10x1.25, but you're going to have a hard time sourcing them locally, because a regular M10 bolt from the hardware store has a big head. It will fit in the channel in the seat rails, but not with enough clearance to use a socket, so you've got to finger tighten it. I've got one in there for now just for safety reasons until my new OEM bolts arrive. Maybe someone would be able to find M10x1.25 bolts with a smaller head at a specialty hardware retailer (like a McMaster-Carr type of place), but a regular home improvement store doesn't have them.

I'm dealing with same exact issue here and hoping you can share what tool or how exactly you were able to remove it? I'm looking at possible using a Irwin 5/16 or 10mm socket bolt extractor or a center drill out style of have to. I agree this is the dumbest fucking bolt I've ever messed with period!!!

I used the bolt extractor from Sears. Part number 952168. Can't find it on their website for you, but it's a quarter inch drive, 5 piece bolt/screw remover set with #0, #1, #2, #3, and #5 bits. If I remember correctly, I used the #1, but I'm not completely sure on that. According to the back of the box, that's a 1/4" hex size. I'm pretty sure I tried the #2 (5/16") first and it didn't really catch the head of the bolt.

What I did was take my 17" breaker bar (which I bought for this project but am now getting a fair amount of use from) and put on a 1/4" hex socket. I recommend using a deep socket - the first time I did it, I used a regular socket, which only gripped the bolt remover above that indentation in the shaft, and it promptly snapped it off. So make sure your socket is long enough to grip the shaft below the indentation.

Then, with the breaker bar vertical, and a good amount of downward pressure, I twisted until the bolt was fully caught in the extractor, then used the breaker bar at an angle to get it out. It is in there with a lot of torque, so I am not really confident that using a power drill like the instructions for the bolt remover suggests would be sufficient.

I thought I lost my keys under the seat one day, I knew they were in the car (or so I thought) because the proximity sensor would not let me lock the door after getting out. I searched for a long time and finally in desperation decided to take the seat out to try and search more closely underneath. It was -8C that night lol... But I can fully attest to the 800lb-ft they torque the bolts to at the factory, geez! Thankfully I didn't strip them though.

It turned out the key had fallen out of my coat when I was brushing snow off the windshield and it landed on the cowl between the windshield and the hood. I found them the next day in the light.