Recomend torque wrench
 

I am looking for a decent one that's inexpensive. If I am going to be dipping my wheels, replacing my header, etc... I should have one.

Harbor Freight, you break it, you get a new one free. I don't use it enough to throw off the settings. If you want a really good torque wrench that's a bit pricier, craftsman has the digi ones.

I've got the 3/8" and the 1/2" torque wrenches. 0 issues with either and got them dirt cheap. I used them for doing my LCA's and also putting my header back on. It's a very light torque on the header surprisingly.

are digital ones better than the non-digital ones?

craftsman would be the best brand?

Just get one from HF as suggested above. If you want to research more, go to garagejournal.com and read the tools forums there. Lots of guys have had their HF torque wrenches tested and they perform just as well as the higher priced units. Just have to remember to treat your tools correctly, i.e. don't drop it, always return the torque setting to it's lowest value when you store it.

As for digital vs non-digital. It's personal preference. I use non-digital clicker units so I don't have to worry about batteries.

IMO, you need three torque wrenches:

1/4-drive in inch/pounds
3/8-drive in a 10 to 100 (give or take) foot/pound range
1/2-drive in a 20 to 200 (give or take) foot/pound range

There is also 3/4-drive in a 50 to 300 range, but unless you are working on diesel trucks, you wont have much use for it.

If you can only afford one, the 3/8 is the one to start with. I have always had good experience with Craftsmen and Snapon tools. Booth have a lifetime warranty. DO NO BUY TOOLS FROM Harbor Freight. They will piss you off and you'll end up buying one of the above brands anyway. Buy Once, Cry Once.

Digital vs non-digital, I prefer the non-digital. What ever model you get, only store it set to zero, otherwise it will loose its calibration over time.

Buy two harbor freight torque wrenches when they have the $10 off coupons.

Constantly interchange, them, and if they don't agree at any time, exchange both.

They normally retail for $25.


Alternatively, get a beam type and call it a day; those don't go out of calibration unless you abuse them.

I have a beam type TW. Works awesome.

Incorrect. Craftsman only offers 90 day warranty on torque wrenches: http://www.craftsman.com/cswarranty/...227082#point3a

While I agree that I wouldn't buy most tools from HF, their torque wrenches are fine. Like I said, do your own research on them first as they are accurate and within tolerances of other manufacturers. For the price of a Snap-On I could replace my HF one every year for the next 30-40 years. But if spending the money for a logo/name makes you feel better, it's your money.

While I own a lot of Craftsman and a few Snap-On pieces, I also own a lot of Harbor Freight, and I've yet to have ANYTHING from Harbor Freight fail on me with proper maintenance...

I also regularly check my two HF torque wrenches against a snap-on, and they've never lost their torque. I even leave one permanently at 80; I never back that one off.

I did have a Craftsman torque wrench fail on me last year, and that one cost me a few hundred bucks =\

Like mike said we have tested HF tongue wrenches with snap on wrenches and have not found any problems. Take care of it and use it for what it's intended for, you will be fine. Our track side tool box is mainly made up of HF tools way cheaper to replace of they walk off.

This looks neat: http://www.harborfreight.com/digital...ter-68283.html

I have a house brand one from napa/pepboys/etc in 1/2" . I should test it. It's the clicker type. I also have a 1/4" beam craftsman for lighter things (like top hat bolts).

what specific applications do we need a torque wrench for while working on our cars?

why not just a regular ratchet set?

Every nut on the car has a torque value. Many shade-tree mechanics would just advise "just make it tight" but "tight" is an unknown value. As someone who works on aircraft and motocross bikes, it is unacceptable not to properly torque a fastener. Not only do you run the risk of loosing the fastener (resulting in failure or an accident) but just as bad is an over torqued nut. Just ask someone that has had to remove an over torqued oil drain, lug nut, suspension component, etc...

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