Turbo Problems
 

I recently turbocharged my FRS. It runs great on the highway as long as the car keeps moving and getting airflow. When I hit traffic, a redlight, or sit in my own driveway, and sit for several minutes, it freaks out and stalls. At first it will start stuttering, then it will not rev past 3k, then it will not take any throttle input, then it just dies and wont start for 45 minutes to 1.5 hours. The coolant temp gauge is reading fine. Could the turbo be causing too much under hood heat?? I mean the downpipe and turbo almost touch the front of the engine and radiator. I'm out of town for work and won't be home for a couple months to get back into digging for problems. I did buy heat wrap to hopefully get rid of some of the under hood heat before I left town, but didn't have time to try it before leaving. Has anyone else ran into problems like this? The air flow sensor is inches from the downpipe... Everything under the hood is too hot to touch even when driving slowly with next to no boost.

The engine codes I'm reading are:
-Random cylinder misfire (The code only pops up after an extended time of trying to restart the car)
-Low rail fuel pressure (This code also only pops up after an extended time of trying to restart the car)
-Catalyst Malfunction (it doesn't have a cat, so this is expected)

So far I've checked:
-The fuel pump is seated correctly
-No boost leaks
-Injectors are plugged in
-No fuel leaks
-Nothing left unplugged

Thanks in advance for any help!

1) who is your tuner
2) what pump
3) what injectors
4) what are you seeing, and or your tuner seeing in the logs when you are having an issue? When you have an issue like this you should immediately be plugging in a laptop and logging the car. And your tuner should have instructed you to do so.

If I had to guess, your MAF is not properly calibrated for the intake your turbo has, or the injectors are not properly calibrated. When the car is warming up (up to a certain temperature) it is not using the MAF signal to run. After that certain temp is reached (I really dont know the exact number but its there), then it stars using the MAF signal to handle fuel delivery.

I know this because I have started my car with MAF disconnected while its cold, and it idles properly up to a certain temp, then when it gets there it dies down and does not want to start/idle anymore. I can wait for the temp to go down and start it up and it ill start again. Only when the MAF s connected and properly calibrated will it idle and work properly at higher temps.

1. Its running on the FBM 300hp pump gas tune just to break the clutch in until I switch to the E85 tune.
2. FBM 270LPH Pump
3. 1000cc Injectors
4. I don't know yet... had to leave town before I could get a log to them.

Could under hood heat soak be causing sensors to freak out?

@King Tut had some initial issues with the FBM base map. Car would not idle, found out it was a problem with his BOV not fully closing. I'll let him chime in with all the details.


Also, do you have an AFR gauge? Is it leaning out/going to rich at any point?

Probably not. It's likely the tune.

I didn't install the AFR gauge yet... Just tried driving to my office and back. Spent one night turbocharging the car and driving to work was my test drive ( an extremely tired test drive haha). I'm kind of blind to the AFR right now :-/

It sounds to me like you just jumped in and started driving the car... You should do a log the moment you start it after FI and possibly for the first few drives just as a safety measure. Logs will tell all. :)

This sounds like a tune issue to me. Although the BOV being POST maf can easily cause an issue like this. Verify you have no leaks anywhere. There are a number of places that vacuum lines come loose on this engine. There are 3 spots under the intake manifold, and one spot on the fuel distribution block on the driver side. If any of these come loose you will get quite a bit of idle related problems and lots of leaning out. All of which you will see when you log the car.

Once you get back in town start by double checking obvious hoses, and then start logging the moment you start the car. Something like this will not be able to be fully diagnosed until you can physically get into the car.

You should have used your laptop and logged the AFR then. That will work sufficiently (although not technically road safe to be looking at a laptop during acceleration!!).

Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm excited to get back home and dig through this again. I'll check the MAF and AFR asap. Should't have installed the clutch, flywheel, fuel pump, injectors, and turbo kit until 6am before having to go straight to work haha. I didn't find any boost leaks (including BOV) though... first thing I went for haha.

my fbm kit did the same thing on base map. and it was bov as well

Conversely... I went with an even lighter spring in my BOV and did not have those issues.

I vote MAF sensor.
Just take it back to your tuner to re-tune your tune.

sounds like you just need a proper tune to be honest.

http://www.fa20club.com/product.php?...cat=251&page=1