High HP turbo catch can setup
 

I have a Jegs catch can ready for install, not sure how to go about installing it. It will vent to atmosphere. Any suggestions or sharing your catch can install would be appreciated.

Update 7/27/14
Finally got around to doing a mock up of how I want it. I bought an aluminum bar from home depot. Decided I was going to use the battery tray bolt to mount it. Lifts the battery slightly, but not noticeable in my opinion. It is wobbly, but once the lines are connected and I zip tie them to something or themselves I feel it should be pretty stable. I want to eliminate the PCV valve and run direct to the catch can. Once I find out the the thread size on the block I can then order the appropriate -an fitting. I will be using -6 lines from the PCV block opening and the front vent under the ac comp.

Final install I will also use DEI black wrinkle paint on the bracket and catch can. I will eventually change out the filter to a K&N also.


http://i986.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps058ae43b.jpg

http://i986.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps5de54ed4.jpg

http://i986.photobucket.com/albums/a...psff6db3ad.jpg

http://i986.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps7da263e3.jpg

Let me know what you think.

Update 7/28/14
Vibrant part #'s if anyone is curious to replace the PCV Valve with a -AN fitting:

• Vibrant Part No: 10222 - Straight Adapter FItting; Size: -6 AN x 3/8" NPT
• Vibrant Part No: 10221 - Straight Adapter Fitting; Size: -8AN x 3/8" NPT
• Vibrant Part No: 10223 - Straight Adapter Fitting; Size: -10 AN x 3/8" NPT

i just run the crankcase breather to a filter (vent to air) and for the pcv i cap the intake manifold and run the line from the pcv itself to ground. if you wanted to use a vta catch can (like d3pe or similar) you'd just run both lines from the block to the catch can and cap off the intake manifold (and intake tube if you still have a nipple there for vacuum).

I think James pretty much nailed it. I didn't see if you had it installed or not this weekend, but I would just run the PCV line off the back passenger side of the block to the catch can. If you have another opening on the can, then run the breather line off the front driver side of the block to the can as well. Then I would run anything that needs vacuum directly off the nipple on the back of the intake manifold where the PCV used to run to. I have pictures of my D3PE and vacuum manifold setup if you want to see it.

Yeah. I was going to run both to a catch and just block off the manifold ports.

Please share your pics.

I can't seem to find them. I might have to take some new ones.

I have the same Catch Can as @King Tut , maybe we can meet up on the weekend or something so you can see it. Let me see if I can find pics of mine.

I use the manifold port that was used for PCV as my vacuum/psi signal for gauge and BOV.

Don't run your PCV line to the ground for the sake of others on the road and their is also un-burned fuel in that mix you will be leaking on and near hot engine parts.

Also blocking off your intake manifold PCV line will affect your vacuum line pressure and thus your idle and potentially your tuning.

wat? How is capping the port on the back of the intake manifold going to do any of that?

The intake manifold is under vacuum, the ECU is adjusting for this vacuum. It is also variable, based on load.

If you block off the port you are changing the vacuum pressure/IM pressure. (Simulating a clogged PCV Valve)

The ECU responds by adjusting fuel trims. And the idle will also drop.

I agree with your first statement. I still don't see the blocking off of that port changing the amount of vacuum that the engine develops at idle. I will have to plug mine and verify this.

Yeah. I would love to check it out. Let me if you going to a local meet or we can just meet up.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2

This applies to any car with a variable PCV system. I went through a lot of this with my catch can research talking to radium about the importance of flow testing cans and making sure they maintain a proper seal.

PCV system is apart of engine design and ECU tuning straight from the factory. The vacuum is factored into the normal air fuel balance. So by plugging the port the port on the intake manifold it will cause as much as a 50-150 change in RPM drop. It can also cause fuel trims to change or ECU to trigger a more rich condition.

Bottom line is that Intake manifold was designed to take incoming blow by air flow from PCV and use it. Thats the point of the valve being variable.

Don't plug the hole on the IM. And don't vent your PCV line straight to the ground, it will spray oil and unspent fuel all over the under body or on the pavement.

Here is my Full blown Catch can


And a pic of @King Tut face when he turbo spools


Sent from somewhere

Yup that's what I wanted to do.

You have pics of the other connection in the front?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2

is hard to take a pic

but one goes to the PCV Valve and the other one goes to the Port under the AC compressor

Has anyone removed the PCV valve completely? Does anyone know the thread size of the PCV port on the block?

OK. It seems Revworks catch catch eliminates the PCV. They provide a vibrant adapter to do this. Does anyone know the part # on it?

http://www.revworksinc.com/Rev-Works...-S_p_3287.html

I see your thought process on paper but I capped the port on my intake and saw zero side effects in practice. My catch can is VTA off both lines and the only down side is stink.

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...psee18eaf9.jpg

Dan, I have a spare engine at the shop. Tomorrow I will pull out the PCV and see if I can find out the threads, I am interested as well.

Thanks!

Updated first post.

I would like to have a pcv valve that references manifold conditions to operate but the gases get vented to my vta can.

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps4f04e413.jpg

Looks to be 3/8 pipe threads. Not sure if its NPT or BSPT. The plunger is very easy to push up from the crank case side. This makes me believe that in a VTA setup the crank case pressure should have no problem moving this plunger up. How much flow is there is another thought.

Yeah I don't want there to be an issue VTA. I see a lot of setups still leaving the PCV on VTA, but technically should be removed with no vacuum present. Vibrant doesn't make a BSPT thread so I'm sure Revworks supplied a NPT.

Vibrant part #'s if anyone is curious to replace the PCV Valve with a -AN fitting:

• Vibrant Part No: 10222 - Straight Adapter FItting; Size: -6 AN x 3/8" NPT
• Vibrant Part No: 10221 - Straight Adapter Fitting; Size: -8AN x 3/8" NPT
• Vibrant Part No: 10223 - Straight Adapter Fitting; Size: -10 AN x 3/8" NPT

Im going to try and nail down which they are. I know the oil port on the front is bspt.

For the oil sending unit? I'm pretty sure my kit came with a 1/8" NPT and no issues with it.

When I installed the FBM catch can I didn't want to pull the AC compressor because of the SC. But the line that runs out from it is easy to tap into. Just chase it out 6-8" and cut it there. just remove the remainder and cap it off.

The Mach V Galley Adapter converts it from BSPT to 1/8 NPT

http://www.fastwrx.com/products/oil-gallery-plug

http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/027...g?v=1384791147

That plug is the oil galley near the TB. I use that for my turbo oil feed. The PCV port in the block is smaller.

Yes, I was telling Dan that the one you were talking about being BSPT was in the front, not the PCV one :D

I have everything I need now to complete the setup. Just need to find the time.

Got a minute to try this out again and to me it sure feels like a 3/8 BSPT fitting is the best fit.

@FullBlown can you shed light on this?

PCV thread size.