Main reason why I got fed up with this company... ^

is the blower new or used? and how many miles does it have on it. If the belt tension doesn't provide any difference in sound then to me it sounds like a bad bearing... and if it's a loud whine that sounds like the supercharger whine, but louder it probably is the supercharger itself unfortunately... but for your sake i'm hoping it's not.. i unfortunately don't have any other suggestions... :(

I just replaced my bearings, bad bearings sound more like a loud cricket/ chirp opposed to a whine.

I have the same gauge, ran one sensor trough the stock galley. The other one is running on the spare/unused galley, right next to your cold air (where it meets the engine)),, there should be a bolt, that my friend is an oil sensor galley, remove bolt and insert sensor. hope this helps, im going from memory from over 1.5 yrs ago.

Ive about had it with this damn kit. Im on my last straw. I guess now the supercharger bearing is going out? Faaantastic. Now i get to pay a thousand dollars and hope Rotrex honors the warranty. Hopefully you guys can hear it in the video. Its the whine that isnt the normal belt whine....

https://youtu.be/1njudl-ches

So, update.

Went through KW service, and they gave me a discount on the 30mm upgrade kit so I could just replace all the pulleys. So that was cool of them. Unfortunately, it didn't fix the issue. Its definitely the supercharger itself.

Has anyone had their units repaired/serviced? Definitely not trying to spend 2300 on a brand new unit.

Here's some video of the blower off the car, and it running with the replaced pulleys.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/8OrMM1A0G7w9Eopo1
https://photos.app.goo.gl/77g69NM60J3anlvx1

You're going to have to go back through KW. You ship your Rotrex to them, and then they ship the Rotrex to Denmark. In the mean time, after inspection, you hope that Rotrex honors the warranty. However, you'll most likely have to pay upfront for a deductible/hold which would most likely get refunded after they send the unit back.

If you want to continue to drive the car in the mean time, I think KW will offer to sell you a brand new unit, and then you can return it upon the return of your original rotrex, but you would most likely have to pay the price for the new unit and most likely only get a partial refund.

I'm not 100% sure how they are doing things now, but that's the last that I can remember. Honestly, good luck with them, every time I tried dealing with them for broken belts/wobbly pulleys it was a HUGE pain in the ass and took forever. It's sad, ever since CJ left, I felt like they just stopped caring as if he was the only guy that cared.

Hmm, well thanks for the info, I appreciate it! Hopefully we can work something out. If it comes to needing to buy a whole replacement unit, I probably will just have to put the car back to stock. Can't swing that price, just bought a house a few weeks ago =[

For anyone is interested I have a brand new Kraftwerks Oil sandwich plate. My first one was defective and at the time they sent me a new one out after the fact I bought the mocal plate. My loss your gain. https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=127732

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Hello I write from Italy, I recently bought a kit Kraftwerk and now I'm looking for ways to map my car, can you give me some tips or even some map for give to the mechanic some ideas? thank you

Do you mean installation maps or tuning maps?
Installation instructions can be found on the first page or on Kraftwerks website. The tuning map is provided by a tuner or the kit, if you bought it with a tune.

Installation is not a problem...I bought the kit without a map, here there are not many tuners, I'll go to do a dedicated map... Curiosity was with what hardwares/software you have mapped in alternative to Ecutek( openflash for example) and if there are examples to follow to sharpen the map

It is necessary to replace the fuel pump and the injectors?

Hey Guys, I purchased the newer BOV from kraftwerks "chasing a boost issue", I had the old all plastic one that the kit originally shipped with. I am a little confused as to what I am suppose to attach to the metal plug coming out the top of the valve?.


Is something I should have had connected even on the plastic one? Ive been running the kit for a long time and have always had a strange "cha cha cha cha cha cha cha" coming from that area when under load.



https://skunk2.com/media/catalog/pro...erks_bov_2.jpg

you run a vacuum line to the top. you know where you T'd off the vacuum line from behind that manifold? T it off again and run a vacuum line there to the top of the bypass valve. You should have done that with the plastic one too. Under WOT the bypass valve should be fully closed. and under WOT and quickly letting off the gas pedal to where the car is slowing down you should hear a snake like hissing sound. during cruising you should be hearing a constant, shhhhhhhhhhhh.