Wow that looks very risky...

Installed kit last weekend. Tuned today. Wow. Some issues... But great power.

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Don't worry...the KW adapter is plenty strong...just make sure it's centered (I don't know how the pulleys fit together so I can't comment as to if or how well the two pulleys fit together or center

Wow, and the performance shop who did the install never mentioned this?
those nubs should go in between the OEM crank pulley and they should sit flush AFAIK ..

Did you check the tq on the crank pulley with a torque wrench? it should be 94 ft/lbs according to the service manual

I have searched for all the aftermarket crank pulley options and it looks like Beatrush is the only one that retains the OEM shape..too bad it costs more than $300 that's crazy expensive for a single pulley IMO

http://ft86speedfactory.com/beatrush...ulley-810.html

Why fixate on pulley weight? Lighter isn't necessarily better. You have a stock engine damper that was designed to help dampen to harmonics of the boxer-4 engine layout why would you remove it?

In race engines we build we usually see horsepower gains and smooth engine performance when we use heavy harmonic dampers such as the ATI super dampers

the ultra lightweight aluminum crank pulleys compromise the reliability of the engine....they are widely made and sold because they take no engineering or tooling to make, can be made cheap, and people buy them...unfortunately
The larger accessory pulleys are fine , just not the crank pulley

because I need to be able to blip the throttle for rev matching since it's a safety issue at track, I locked up my rear tires and spun out at 90 mph ;) no phun!! .. since with SC parasitic load/loss comes in play which ultimately slows the engine revving I have to find a way to compensate that..
the only alternatives seem like lighter crank pulley and/or lighter flywheel at the moment..I also ordered some Cusco Accelerator pedal but it will maybe a help a bit but I don't expect by much..

AFAIK, FA20 engine doesn't use harmonic balancers is that what you mean in your first paragraph?

harmonic balancer is a misnomer....the proper term is harmonic damper. all factory crank pulleys are harmonic dampers. going to a non-dampened lightweight aluminum pulley is a step backwards...a step forward would be an ATI damper or maybe have one custom made by BHJ.

here is a link to the ATI product:
http://www.atiracing.com/products/da...dam-subaru.htm

Here is a link to BHJ and also technical whitepapers about the importance of Harmonic Dampers:
http://www.bhjdynamics.com/index.php...vrsueignutk6u3

as for locking up and spinning out...dont dump the clutch. aside from that if you are trying to make the engine 'blip' faster, the crank pulley is the wrong place to look for that response. as was said before, start in the areas with the highest MOI (moment of inertia)..the crank pulley does not have enough mass or diameter to significantly impact the rate the engine spins up or spins down.....start at the flywheel and clutch package. an ideal set-up for you would be an ultralight flywheel combined with a 7" twin-disc carbon clutch (which you can feather and ride/slip all you want if you need to)...if the clutch isnt in the budget, even the flywheel alone will make a significant difference.

thanks for all the technical info :) it seems like my best bet is to get a lighter flywheel as you suggested (probably a Exedy Stage 1 clutch since I prefer the OEM engagement) once I do that I will most likely change clutch at the same time

as for locking up, I never really dump the clutch but I perform late brake and try to carry as much as corner speed as I can, so my driving style requires me to operate very quick downshift/rev matching .. this may never be an issue for someone who uses his/hers car at street/auto-x but it's quite important for track use imo

I did I quick run on the 1/4 did mid 13 s on high altitude here in el paso TX with 100 degree weather. On street tires, I think 12s is doable on slicks and better temperatures. Yes I also enjoy drag racing.

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what i mean is slip the clutch if you need to....its better than spinning out
there is nothing more sensitive to rear wheel lock up than a motorcycle during aggressive downshifting and braking....before slipper clutches became standard in racing motorcycles, in addition to matching engine speed, the rider needed to have good enough clutch control to slip the clutch to drag the engine rpm up to higher transmission speeds when necessary

We checked clearances and torqued the bolt to spec. Obviously the nubs do not line up due to the convex on the aftermarket crank pulley but the heights of the stock pulley to aftermarket pulley where the bolts sit is the same. The car has been dyno'ed and driven and torque was checked again to verify and all was well. I had mentioned to the customer the aftermarket pulley actually worked with the kw kit before customer had picked up the car.

Good luck getting one. Manufacturing issues have caused a serious delay. Nobody has them on stock, if you find one I'll purchase one too.

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maybe I am just being too skeptical again, my concern was the angle of the belt and the potential slippage but as you mentioned that may not be an issue since the bolt was torqued to the specs :cheers:

Interesting, after hearing the issues I highly doubt I would consider getting one, I think it's just not worth the effort/hassle considering that we have SC kit installed now.. I will probably get a lighter flywheel and call it a day :) the problem with these type of aftermarket parts (the ones that are made of weight savings) is the negligence of the importance of the OEM design .. the engineers of these cars have their own reasons for a particular design..oh well