This is why DIY is important. Not only do you teach yourself something, you do it RIGHT. I did this pulley install not knowing anything about what to do. Grabbed a breaker bar from harbor freight for a few bucks, gave it a few hard tugs, the rest was history after that.

Never installed coilovers in my life nor knew much about suspension and I did it in my apartment parking lot on jackstands. Sure I bitched when torquing the top hats onto the coils, but at this point in time now, I'm very happy. I saved a lot of money, I learned more about my suspension than I ever knew, and it gives me more confidence going forward doing other projects.

If you have a 1/2" electric (or battery) drill, chuck the bolt into the drill and spin it to see if the head is off. Being over-torqued it is an outside possibility that it started to twist to failure point.......

Glad you found out how to solve this issue!

mine is the same way .. baught a new bolt from subaru and still like that

tq at 90 with a digital wrench tested at toyota ... mine might me a lil less then this video been a few weeks sence i looked at it

Wasn't there something about a pin or something that you had to watch out for when doing this mod? I Swear I saw it in in a video on here (maybe the vortech install & review by dezoris?)

I talked to Jeff at Perrin about this very thing as my bolt head wobbles too. Not quite as much as the first post but it's noticeable. Jeff said that it's normal as the bolts are made up to the same precision, thus may not be perfect. He said it won't affect the pulley at all and I'm fine.

Had the same problem and called Perrin to verify. I did the install like 7 times all with the same result. I'm convinced that the head is just not a proper circle. After driving hard for a few blocks, the wobble definitely diminished a LOT.

The crank nose spacer is what can potentially fall out. It's really not hard to put back in. Did it to me on like the 3rd attempt and I just put it back in, no special mirrors or anything.

Guys, if the bolt is wobbling then it's throwing off the balance of the crankshaft. There shouldn't be any discernible wobble in that bolt or the pulley. Maybe if you used a dial indicator, but certainly not to the naked eye.

Sorry to bring this back from the abyss, but after installing my Perrin pulley, I experienced wobble very similar to this, where it's difficult to discern if it's the pulley or the bolt head. The tensioner pulley itself also has a very slight wiggle, but I'm not sure if that's from the pulley, or engine vibration, or within normal operating parameters (can anyone take a video of their OEM pulley area?)

My story goes that I purchased a new bolt with the intent of replacing it and being good to go, only to find that I had pinched the o-ring and it disintegrated over the course of the 25 miles I had driven the car before the special order bolt arrived.

Now I've replaced the bolt and the o-ring, having lubed the threads and underside of the bolt-head, after torquing to 94 foot-pounds according to Perrin's instructions, and it looks just as wobbly as it did originally.

I'm convinced that the tolerances of the pulley, the machined piece that it mounts to, and the crank itself, are very tight. Coupled with a relatively tight tensioner and a high-quality serpentine belt, it's possible for this to be installed imperfectly and still survive for thousands of miles if need be – but I'm not convinced that my pulley is completely straight yet.

I may disassemble it again, put the OEM pulley back on, and test the straightness of the pulley with a micrometer to confirm. It's plausible these just aren't perfect pieces, or something in the anodizing and curing process thickens it enough to cause an imbalance. If I go this route, I'll follow up here

After a trip from Milwaukee to Minneapolis, the pulley and bolt both seem mostly fine. I think some of the perceived wobble may just be natural engine vibration, since the pulley area appears to not have any engine mounting point near-by.

On higher-than-idle revs, the pulley and engine both look straight and stable. On warm idle, the engine does have a tendency to wiggle around a bit. My verdict based on my anecdotal experience still stands; a properly installed pulley, with a new bolt and o-ring may appear to have some wobble, but the tolerances are so tight that the only way to cause damage is to be irresponsible. If you're worried about it, check it every day or two.

I also recall reading in this topic or another similar one, worries about poor gas mileage immediately after installation. I also had this happen; for the first 100 miles or so I was down to a 28.5ish average, when I'm used to getting 34 on 91 ethanol-free octanes. Now that the brain learned about the new bits, everything seems back to status-quo.

MPG bit might be due you removing power when installing, thus ECU reset & relearning fuel trims on startup after assembling. Can be shortened (search in forum).

Computer learning has to be what caused my low MPG. It was a dramatic decrease that then dramatically improved with no difference in my approach towards driving the car.

Yeah, probably. This bit (and how to quicken ECU reset dead pedal fix) IIRC mostly came from tuning/reflashing ECUs side, but might be useful in similar cases, is even mentioned here after pulley installation.