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DIY Request: Axle Removal/Replacement
I've got an inner CV going bad and rather than buy the inner CV assembly from subaru for 250 I got a full axle w/ 36 miles on it from ebay for $99.
Now I just need to find a DIY on how to replace the axle. Have any of you guys done this yet? |
I'll take the photos if one of you will write the instructions! ;)
Wheel side: http://i.imgur.com/PMo4Ayz.jpg Diff side: http://i.imgur.com/B5nsJXB.jpg |
Are you out of the warranty mileage already??
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(not to derail this thread too much haha. Axle replacement in my past subarus involved removing the wheel hub/bearing, then the axle simply slips out. It's got splines on each end. Really straight forward. A friend in a shop who'd done it multiple times before did 2 axles on my older suby in an hour flat. My goes at it took a bit longer, but not too much) |
Simple task, I've done it last week since I've snapped one on the drag strip.
- Jack the car and suport with jack stand - Remove the wheel of the broken axle - Unpunch the nutch on the big axle nut - Remove the big axle nut (32MM) - With a prybar, unsnap the 2 axle from the rear diff - Go under the car, and spot the 5 rear diff bolts - Remove the 4 driving shaft bolt (sealed with loctite) - Suport the rear diff and remove the 5 holding bolts of the diff - Lower the diff - Remove your axle from the diff and from the hub - Your done -Reverse it back, axle need a good punch to be reinstall, their is a place on it to put a prybar and hit it. Don't forget to check the torque specification for all the nuts on the shop manual. |
Going to get mine done tonight and I'll write up the DIY with pics.
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http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/...psrqm8vr1o.jpg
Okay this job really isn't that hard. What you really need is the TQ's for the axle nut. All the others were just tightened by hand. Tools: - 20-150 ftlb torque wrench - 32mm socket (axle nut) - 17mm socket - 12mm socket (brake line bolt) - 10mm socket (brake line bolt) - High temp grease First step is to take off the wheel and then the axle nut. It's pretty tough so if you are not heavy set or strong I'd recommend either a longer cheater bar or some assistance. http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/...psscwur779.jpg Next you need to remove the brake line bolts. There is one further in which isn't pictured, that requires the 10mm. http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/...pspjk09zuj.jpg Here are the other 2 bolts you need to remove. Put a light coat of High temp grease on the driveshaft side of the axle. Make sure that when you go to install the new axle that you leave the nut flush on the wheel side and tap it in with a hammer (after the gears are aligned). After you torque the axle nut to 140ftlbs, use a flat tip screwdriver and hammer to peen the axle nut. http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/...psnctufp4p.jpg http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/...pshqfnznxz.jpg This is my first DIY so sorry if it's not perfect lol. Message me if you guys have any questions. |
Bumping this old thread. Do you need to drain the fluid when replacing the axles?
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Took a few gentle taps at the hub end of the axle with a 4lb hammer to get the whole axle it to seat past the interior circlamp. Thanks to Scotty Kilmer for that tip (2:10 ish). Disregard much of the rest of the vid as it shows a different car and different axle. [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bH98nX8fb6M"]Replacing A Broken CV Axle On Your Car - YouTube[/ame] |
Another bump here. Would it make sense to crack the axle nut loose with the wheel on the ground still? Or do you just leave it in a low gear and let the drivetrain hold it for you?
-Josh |
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