What extra work is needed after installing springs?
 

I have H&R Sport springs (claimed 1"F/1.2"R drop) and I'm hesitant to install them for a few reasons. Any help on the subject is appreciated.

1: Main concern, are there extra parts I need to buy and have installed when I get the springs put in? Toe arms/camber bolts/control arms/etc? I heard yes from some and no from others and I don't know who's right. This is my main reason for not installing because of the extra cost. I know either way I need to get it re-aligned.

2: I have 18x8" +35 235/40's, would a ~1" drop grind the inside of the wheel well at all on bumps and stuff?

3: How's the ride from those who have had theirs lowered, do you have to take all curbs at an angle now and that sort? I do sometimes because of my front lip but with springs it'll be even lower.

Thanks!

Here's my take (I'm an informed reader and an enthusiast, but not a racer, engineer, or tuner):

You get different responses, because the answer is "it depends". It depends on your goals, and your expectations.

Can you install just the springs? Yes. It will alter your camber at the very least. However, from what I understand, it will still be within an "acceptable" specification for the car.

If you want to be able to adjust the changes caused by the springs, you'll need camber bolts (or plates) for the front. For the rear, they recommend installing lower control arms because of the comparative ease to install the LCAs, as opposed to other methods of controlling rear camber.

Personally, I have not lowered my car with my springs yet either (identical estimated drop to your choice) because I'm waiting on my additional parts (front camber bolts, and rear LCAs). To me, I want to get the car back to where I want the camber settings, not where they end up from the drop. If you're not racing or anything like that, I'm guessing you'll likely be fine either way - with or without the additional parts.

As to your second question - it depends also. What is the offset of your wheel? Take a look at the wheel fitment guide sticky in this section of the forum and look for your size wheel. Chances are, someone out there has already tried your size wheel and tire combo on their car, and can tell you if it will fit. The sticky will likely answer this question quite completely for you. Look for it. Read it. Be happy.

I can't answer your last question. I haven't lowered mine yet, and I haven't ridden in anyone else's car that was lowered.

good luck. I hope I helped some.

1. no
2. no
3. no

you only need all those camber correction stuff if you really care. Otherwise the front at 1" usually is like .10 or so degree of camber, and rear is like 2 degrees normally. They aren't even on both sides normally and you will need those things mentioned to correct it if you relaly want.

Your wheels won't rub

And lastly, you should always drive at an angle anyways when dropped

I was going to say, from my experience, the only thing I would worry about once the springs are installed is an alingment. Often overlooked, but it makes a huge difference in tire wear and just driving dynamics in general.

I would get both camber bolts and LCAs

I did forget about camber bolts. Good point. I will be installing these as well and nearly forgot to mention them :)

I am also in the same boat. It's taken me a few weeks but I've finally got everything in hand. I started with Eibach Sportline. Since they claim a 1.5" drop I knew I would need camber bolts and rear LCA's. I also wanted the stock wheels to be flush with the outside so I purchased wheel spacers (20mm front, 25mm back).

I THINK that's all you need. Springs, camber bolts, rear LCA, and wheel spacers if you want your tires flush with the body of the car. I've already read about how lowering your car will mess with your stock shocks also, so who knows where it all really ends. Some people say the shocks will be fine, others have their shocks go out quickly.

I went with Sportlines so my drop was more than yours will be. The rest of the parts aren't required, but this was my reasoning behind getting them anyway.

I opted for LCAs to dial out some of rear camber, I didn't need to, but i did anyway. ~$300 for LCAs is cheaper up front than replacing lots of tires down the road.

I went with camber bolts up front to try to even out the look, I'm still running like -2 degrees rear camber with -1.1 degrees up front. I wish I had more camber up front, but these were so cheap compared to camber plates I just went with them anyway.

Actually if you think about it, any serious enthusiast will want to be ale to adjust camber even at stock height.

Again, I think the 1" drop will still drop you to acceptable spot I the camber range.

Ymmv

If all you want to do is lower 1", throw the springs on, get an alignment and drive the car! :)

Don't worry about camber bolts and LCA's.

like he said , and like i mentioned earlier, only an alignment is needed but if you are anal and really want even camber on both sides and adjustability i would do it.

I did it, i got whiteline camber bolts and spc lca.

nothing is required.

:happy0180:

True. Camber bolts are dirt cheap, and you're already getting an alignment - so if you want to even out camber in the front (or add a little) that's the way to do it. I have the SPC rear control arms, but they are definitely not necessary, you will be fine without them.

Does anybody have photos of an after lowered car without the camber adjustments?

I wouldn't mind getting them if necessary but if there is a camber angle change after installing the springs, how much angle are we talking?

How noticeable is it?