We do sell DT's FF kit and converse with Zach and Bill from DT on a consistent basis. Their kit is very good and plug and play. They come in two versions: OEM type and Race. The Race utilizes some nice lines while the OEM ones are great for those who don't do racing (uses OEM fittings, etc.). We have a few clients who purchased the DT FF kit through us and went to Church for tuning. Church builds maps from scratch so it takes an entire day to do tuning for 91 and E85. Each map that Church develops is unique to each car he tunes and every parameter is optimized for the specific type of driving you want to do.

If you work with Church, stick with Church. If you work with DT, then stick with DT. Since they are both local in the Socal region, they will do what they can to help, but also switching tuners so often makes it difficult to have them keep track of what they have done to your car. In that sense, pick one and stick to them.

So I've done roughly 60 miles of driving since yesterday. ~50 of those across three different freeways, and the remaining amount on the relatively smooth street.

The car feels absolutely planted, even with the 30k mile stock tires. I'm thinking about the rear subframe bushings from Whiteline as a new addition as well.

Sooo in the pursuit of sublime shifting, I overlooked that the Perrin Rear Shifter Bushing replaces the rear bracket assembly - the same assembly that the TRD Quick Shift replaces. I also overlooked, that the STI short shifter replaces the boot, the same one the TRD Quick Shift replaces.

That means the only unique hardware in the TRD kit is the adapter and bolt. Of the two, I think the TRD may have more NVH, and although I won't know until they're all on and I try both options, I'm opting to try the Perrin bushing first.

Hopefully, with the Motul tranny fluid, STI shifter, TRD quick shift kit, Cusco shift lever retaining bushings, MTEC springs, Perrin lockout, and STI knob I'll have that sublime feeling when rowing. I think the feel in the shifting aspect may be "finished" after that.

I think the suspension is an ongoing thing, but I want to turn some attention to lighter weight in the drivetrain and other areas next. I'm thinking Motul fluid, STI clutch, Exedy lightweight flywheel, MTEC clutch spring, Perrin pulleys, DSS aluminum driveshaft, AP Racing Sprint kit, and lighter wheels will net me the edgy response and feel I want out of the pedals.

I'm still loving the changes the braces made to the car. Now, I'm off to install the last Cusco rear end brace, the Perrin overpipe, frontpipe, and rear shifter bushing, and the DSS driveshaft.

Well, mother #$%*(@!

Today, this happened:

http://i.imgur.com/KOaGRYN.jpg

Yep, the last $*#@%^! bottom bolt on the stock overpipe was seized, and cracked off inside of the header. Here's the culprit:

http://i.imgur.com/YDMpShI.jpg

I'm taking it to the machine shop and letting them fix it. I tried drilling into the bolt with several drill bits meant for metal to no avail. I mean, nothing... Not even from the drill bits mean for drilling into seized bolts, swapping bits and drilling into it again before reversing out. So instead of wasting my time on that, which was fruitless, could continue to be fruitless, and which I might make worse, I just decided to grab this:

http://i.imgur.com/2VB0kuo.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/iYWUwXE.jpg

I've been following this header since it was announced here on the forums. It seems to be Tomei in every regard, with the exception of the Tomei stamp on the flange. I'd rather rock a Tomei, but couldn't get my hands on a new or used one in time for tomorrow, and couldn't justify that extra money for only the name on the flange. I don't think the difference here is the same as a Grid to a TE37, for example.

Tomorrow once I finish my install of the driveshaft, shifter bushing, overpipe, front pipe, and headers, I'll add a sound clip to Youtube.

Awesome build thread!

May I ask why your going to be selling your Whiteline Transmission Mount Bushing Insert?

I ask because i have one coming in the mail right now >:O

I look forward to the review and YouTube clip.

Installed system. Great sound. Just a little worried about where I live...

From the online videos I've seen I was concerned about it sounding tinny, but perhaps the rest of my setup helped out, because it sounds more like a JDL setup in that it's very deep/very bassy. It's at almost nothing at idle, but loud and angry at wot.

It also seems a little less responsive off the throttle at low rpms, but maybe that's because of less back pressure, maybe because it hasn't been tuned yet, maybe because the top end seems to come on stronger now because of no cat and lighter drive shaft etc., or maybe it's all of it together. Not sure. I like it so far, but I prefer the stock headers right now for other reasons. I just bought them as an interim thing between getting my header fixed, with the possibility of keeping it.

I'm grimy and have some stuff to attend to, so I may not get a chance to do videos until tomorrow. Apologies!

The bushing is great - no complaints, I actually might keep it. I was just thinking of either the STI trans mount or a Cusco trans collar to be more in sync with my build. That said, I think I'm adding a few more Whiteline parts to my build, so it may stay on. I'm curious about adverse NVH between the two, I'm pretty sure the Whiteline bushing will be more forgiving in that regard.

Had the car on a lift last week while I installed the DSS drive shaft and other things. No vibrations, it went on perfect the first time around. One thing to note, I read in a thread here on the forums that there was a hiss of gas or something when they removed their driveshaft - I encountered the same. Didn't seem to affect anything, but I'll be putting it up on the lift in another week, so I'll know more by then. Here's a pic of it installed:

http://i.imgur.com/lbxKRq1.jpg

Earlier I mentioned that I wasn't sure if the Perrin filter would fit - well, it does. :thumbsup: And luckily enough, the Perrin is printed on both sides to be read the right way, so the logo still shows up properly. One note though, it does seem to touch the metal coolant line or whatever it is over there on the right. I installed the brake cozy as well. Pic:

http://i.imgur.com/u4NPEWl.jpg?1

Some other parts came in in the meantime, but I'm holding off on installing them until the STI steering rack hardware, shifter, and knob come in, as well as the MTEC clutch and shifter springs. I'd prefer to do those on the lift - its amazing how much easier things are with the car in the air!

http://i.imgur.com/qQ4kBAZ.jpg

Look at all them goodies!

I just installed the Perrin Lockdowns your going to love them.

@olsonpg do you happen to remember if there was much room between the bolt and the lockdown holes? I'm wondering if the larger STI bolt will actually fit in there. If not, I might go with Cusco/STI/TIC steering rack bushings. They supposedly do the same thing, just from the inside vs. the outside. Maybe I can just use them in combination.

Not 100% sure i understand what your asking.

Are you talking about using a longer bolt? In that case im sure you could use a longer bolt thats at least an increase of the depth of the perrin lockout.?

Why the STI bolt? Extra undercarriage sweg?

Or are you talking about installing some AM steering rack bushings ASWELL as the lockdowns? From what i hear you receive a negligible increase in stiffness from doing that but you CAN do that.

I just did a quick search and there are all aluminum bushings for our rack :drool:

I think the STI bolts are either a) longer, b) wider, or c) both. That, combined with the different rack bushings, spacer, etc. I think make a difference. But also, undercarriage swag :drool:

Yes, I am talking about installing both. My thought is if I don't like anything, I can remove it.

I'm looking into the solid bushings too :cheers: