You don't need any of those fancy tools at all really, that helps but not essential

It's very simple if you can create access

Undo mount bolts for motor mounts, right?
Jack up motor two inches from oil pan with care, another inch when you're clear!

Be sure you clear stuff loosen exhaust check wires hoses etc based on your build, if you need to be told nitty gritty details I'm not the guy to do that sorry

Slide jack left or right and its under twenty minutes per side

Just did it well mostly the same job this weekend, pulled off more than plugs, pulled the entire cam cover in an hour for my project

no more than two hrs for the both sides if you go slow

Pulling cover took an hour and requires more than the room needed for plugs

I used basic hand tools, it's too tight for air tools, and a few smaller things like swivels and wobble stuff make it that much easier but once you gain access needed to pull the coils you're there, having the right plug sockets will be key, it's tight in there.


You can do it too, lifting the motor makes the needed access space, hope that helps

If you need to ask those questions you have no business under the hood of a car.

If someone donates a car, I will do a DIY :)

@Sportsguy83? hahahaha

How were the gaps on the stock plugs?

When
 

When you coming down to MIA?? :D

I cannot possibly see how there is enough clearance to pull coils without bending the hell out of them. Much easier to losen the two subframe bolts and lift motor to get clearance as mentioned it would take less time then fighting in a tight space and getting pissed off.

It's possible. Thy don't go yanking the moor, an I swear I dint use not specialty tools

It's very easy. The coils are the simple part. Removing the ecu and shielding give you plenty of room. There is absolutely no need at all to lift the engine. It may or may not be the same effort as just lifting the motor, but its definitely not when you have a front mount turbo that'd have to come off to lift the motor.

Ok will try without it. Have the plugs just been holding off on it.

hated doing plugs on my forester before removing the subframe spacers

i see this as more of the same.

plenty doable just a pita until you get the extension/tool sequence down.

They were all real close to factory gap. I gapped them down .001 less with feeler gauges.

So I finally got under the car and pulled the guard off...

I'm sad to say that there's no other way. The engine MUST be lifted in order to change/check the plugs. Really, that is awfully annoying. Just when I thought my MR2 was bad to work on, this is probably just as bad if not more annoying!

It would've been nice to have a service hole through the frame or something. But having to undo an onslaught of items for a simple spark plug check/change is quite ridiculous.

I seriously hope these plugs can handle a good amount of boost for a long time because who the hell has the time to lift a damn engine periodically!

Ughhhhhhhhhhhh....

/rant

All stuff can be made to clear, and a well designed kit will still leave clearance, plus as you lift up radiator support clearances increase. You shouldn't run into any interference if you're careful, I don't suggest you lift 5-6 inches like I think I read somewhere.

I lift with microfiber cloth under my oil pan my jack has a nice rubber pad. Use old car mat if your jack isn't smooth like mine.

Raise car five minutes for me max, you take more time to read this thread.its your job to do this part safe, and in my opinion the hardest and most critical part of the job in my driveway.

Once the car is supported entirely by the frame, Just simply loosen the two motor mount bolts or nuts iirc that's what oe was, I use air tool so this takes one minute or about two by hand, more time looking for excuses, its not hard I promise.

Lift it just enough so you can move it left or right that's about two minutes. Once you lifts up that two inch you can slide jack left or right enough to pull out coils and plugs. Have a helper a pry bar ya know, basic stuff shops have. Loosen exhaust bolts can help. Little more depemding on your setup, i take off my airbox. Watch ac hard line.

You guys are making easy work seem hard. All done with basic tools, your local autozone will sell you a wobble 2" and I used a regular deep 14socket and stuff you find at sears.

I wouldn't try to do it without lifting it or waste time looking for tools to do that. Just sayin.

I will try to do a DIY with pics soon. As i am thinking i may need to replace mine, or at least check them out. Started getting CEL---- P0300, and P0301 codes now.... Believe thats a generic misfire, and a misfire on cylinder 1.

Are these a concern occasionally? I just started noticing them on the last tune my tuner sent me..Maybe flash back and see if that fixes things.

Any thoughts?