Flash Flood Water Damage - Please Help
 

A few hours ago we had a torrential downpour come through my area and the parking lot outside my building was flooded with about a foot and a half of water. I realized the danger and ran outside just as the water was reaching the lower "lip" of the front bumper, just centimeters away from the air inlet. I jumped inside and started the car, thinking my only chance was to get it out while the water was still just below the critical point (it was still raining heavily at this point). As I backed out of my parking space, I realized it was already too late, my parking space was actually the shallowest point.

Luckily some of my neighbors showed up and helped me push the car (with the engine off) out of the flooded area and over to a small hill. But before we could get it out the flood water had risen to reach the air inlet, and the footwells inside the car were filling with water. It got about as high as the seats before we reached dry land and luckily not high enough to reach the shift knob or any of the dashboard.

As of right now I have bailed out all of the standing water inside the car, and I have not tried to start the engine again. The electronics still seem to work - door locks, power steering, dome light at least. But I'm sure there is still water in between the interior fabric and the metal shell.

Has anyone ever had their car flooded before? What should I do? I know I need to remove all the footwell carpeting and padding (not just the floor mats, those are already out) ASAP and allow them to dry, but I don't know how to get them out. I need to remove the seats too, including the rear ones. And is it safe to try starting the engine again, or do I need to get it towed to a shop?

If anybody knows how to take these interior pieces apart, or any general advice, I would be extremely grateful.

Call your insurance company...

I'm going to, but in the meantime the longer it sits there the more chance there is for mold & corrosion.

Pull all the carpets out and dry them.

Usually to get the carpet out you just take the seats out and pop the bottom part of the rear seat up. Also the carpet is usually secured underneath the center console (not always). Other than popping off the door scuff plates that's really it. It should slide out from underneath the other plastics. However, it if is not wanting to slide out from underneath the center console, chances are it is hooked under there and you'll have to take out the console to get it out.

I would definitely slide up under the car and pop off the rubber body plugs if there are any (I just got my car 2 days ago, so I am not sure how many or where they are). But they are just rubber plug, you can remove them by hand and that should allow some extra water sitting underneath the carpet to drain out. But the carpet will definitely have to be removed to get it all.

Don't fret my friend, I think you'll be fine.

And about the engine. You should be fine there as well. The engine won't suck up water without running, and if it didn't stall while you had it running then it didn't even come close to hydro locking. However, if you are still worried, just pull out your airfilter and see if it is wet. If not, then I wouldn't worry at all.

Time to pull all the carpets and switch em out, but first your best bet is to call the insurance company in case they can help monetary wise, but you really do not want mold and corrosion screwing up your interior. Also the intake and engine should be fine, as long as the motor didn't run in the high water, because then there was no suction to suck water up in the first place.

You might be able to get most of it with a powerfull wet/dry vac. Your still going to have to take the seats out to get all of it. It's not a fast process but it you should be able to get enough of it to let the rest dry out with leaving the windows down. as for starting the car take off the air intake and make sure there is no water sitting in the resonators. This is just one of many options. Your best bet is to take it to a detail shop and have them remove the carpet to wash and dry it.

Sent from my Q10

Get a big fan in there to keep the air moving. Air that sucker out!

I had the exact same scenario with my '00 Si. My car however was driven through, but never stalled, and also never quite the same. But you didn't drive so on to the real comparison:

I waited about 18 days before calling it in because I too bailed all the water out and dried everything, and all electronics worked...it was my performance/mpg loss that made me take it in.

Initially they said the car doesn't appear to be flooded because I did such a good job, then they pulled the floormats. Rust everywhere, computer was suggested to be replaced as it was still moist.

So, at the very least you need to remove the carpeting immediately if you want to do a thorough job. You could avoid insurance, but you might as well call them. Do it yourself like I suggested is for no insurance people. Surely you have a $500 or less deductible? If not, you should. The price difference isn't that much and it would have paid for itself right now.

Calling in the insurance company will possibly put it on the CarFax. Just something to think about when it's time to trade or re-sell. It will likely diminish the value.

Tough decision as you may not have electrical problems now but if some wiring, connectors, sensors or relays were flooded you may have corrosion issues later on. The ones that expect to see water in normal driving situations will be sealed from damage but the rest might not be. I'd be real thorough in assessing the water level vs. all the car's electrical components and wiring then come up with a determination of the direction to take.

IMO, the carpets are the least of the problems. They can easily be replaced.

Thanks guys. I've tried pulling the seats and carpets out but wasn't able to finish due to the passenger seat bolts being stuck. I also got enough of the trim pieces off to access the edge of the carpet, but the carpet appears to be stapled to a plastic piece that I can't remove. I don't have the tools to proceed at this point, I need a professional. Hopefully I can find one open on a Saturday.

I see people say this all the time and it kind of irritates me. This shit should be in CarFax, and it probably should diminish the value. I wouldn't want to buy a car that was flooded out like this even if it wasn't that serious.

It sucks you car got flooded by shit happens in life and scamming the next person down the line is unacceptable and unjustifiable.

You can try to mitigate any issues yourself, but then you probably won't be able to collect insurance if it doesn't work out. This is what insurance is for.

Go buy a dehumidifier and an extension cord and put it in your car with the doors and windows closed, in a day or 2 it should be pretty well dry.

Don't forget to empty the dehumidifier often.

Big box improvement stores sell one-time-use dehumidifying tubs...you take the lid off, set it in the room and walk away. Park it in the sun, windows closed and set a tub on the floor in front of each seat and you'll be fine.

Personal experience in this...before the FRS, I had a 2nd Gen Tacoma (which were notoriously less waterproof than 1st Gen's). I had anywhere from 1-5 inches of water in the cab several times over the years from creek/water crossings on trails. I pulled the all the interior carpet out a couple times and vac'd and sun dried, but for the effort that it took, it was just as effective and endlessly less time consuming to deploy 4 dehumidifying tubs between the front at back seats. YMMV, but I'd start here.

http://www.damprid.com/

Call your insurance and get the car totalled it willbe better for you in the long run.

I think the water has to reach the steering wheel in order to total it.

If you don't have a dehumidifier at home, ask around some detailer shops if they have a dehumidifier, many of them do interior detailing service and use an ionizer - some of them may as well have a dehumidifier.

Also yeah a bunch those 12oz "No Damp" dehumidifier tubs they sell in home improvement store sections work very well.

I'll second the Damp-rid - it's good stuff.

Nope it all depends on what key components were damaged. ECU, Airbag computer, engine, diff, airbags, seat belt pretensioners, etc.

Thanks for the help guys. I just got the car back after a few weeks in the shop under insurance. They cleaned all of the carpets and seats, and replaced the clutch assembly. I'm going to go ahead and do a precautionary oil change as well, but other than a slight musty smell (which has mostly gone away) it is back to normal!

Here are some before pictures, the drivers seat is pulled out and you can see the whole inside of the car is still wet:
Attachment 51506
Attachment 51507

After!
Attachment 51505

So he should be dishonest to a potential future buyer about flood damage? smh

That car should be considered a total loss, no question. Get a lawyer, have them submit a demand letter to the insurance company that appears to be evading responsibility, cc: your state insurance commissioner.

For a while I wasn't sure if they would declare it totaled or not. I'm glad they didn't because I would have lost much more money in depreciation (it's a brand new car). As it is, the car was fully repaired and I only had to pay my deductible.

I'm a little worried about electrical problems so I'm considering going through the car and putting silicone grease inside the connectors, but otherwise there isn't much to worry about. The car is still under full factory warranty.

If you think you'd lose depreciation now, wait until you attempt to sell or trade the car.

For perspective, my first corporate job for a major auto manufacturer involved the inspection of hundreds of new cars and trucks for possible flood damage. After days of training by the insurance company whose interest was to repair cars, not total them, my staff totaled hundreds of cars over a several week period including some that had been retailed and were in use by customers. One of the main criteria to determine total loss was water entry into the cabin over the level of the seat belt anchor points. It sounds like your car had even more.

It may take 5-10 years, but problems will arise. I can't believe your insurance carrier is exposing themselves to this type of potential liability. Did they certify in writing that you won't have a branded title and the full factory warranty will remain in effect?

Like I said, consult an attorney and I'd add an independent certified diminished value appraiser licensed in your state and pay the ~$200 for a written report.

This isn't legal advice, I'm not an attorney, but was directly involved in a situation like yours. Good luck!

Glad you got your car back, dry and driveable!

However, I'm surprised that nobody suggested packing the car in rice for a couple days ;)

Sounds like good advice. The reality is that your car is working now, but there most likely will be electrical gremlins in the future. Do your research 1st and only consider an attorney as a last resort. Sounds like you may have been better off if they totaled the car.

Im late to the party but here is what i would havevsaid

Disconnect battery ASAP

Open air box, spray with mass air sensor cleaner
Leave open to air dry
Put a rag so no debris or insects crawl into intake

Fill two bottles of dry gas (methanol) to our tank, if water got in there you need I drain it, you can get most fuel out by disconnect lines to injectors and run pump, fill full with fresh fuel if needed and repeat till you have old fuel out if it is contaminated

If there is water in spark plug holes, let that dry, it's okay to leave a fan on top of motor or a few days running in sun

Don't try to start it till pure sure it's dry!!! Patience is your friend

Drain and fill with fresh oil too if n doubt.

Ensure the o2 sensors are dry

Start it and pray?