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Traction control issue?
In all honesty, I just treat the traction control on my FR-S 6MT like a toggle switch. Most of the time if I want it off I would just hold down the left button ~5 sec so all the traction/VSC lights come on. But seems like there are various degrees of disabling using combinations of the TRAC button and the right VSC button, but seems like it should/would affect the Auto more than the MT.
I have noticed something recently that got me curious, my left traction control button is intermittent when I simply press it momentarily while driving. Sometimes the TRAC OFF light would come on but other times nothing happens. Not sure when it is allowed and when it isn't allowed to come on. The long 5 sec press still works every time to turn all nannies off. Any idea? |
Traction control issue?
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Thanks I'll take it out today and try the 1/2 sec press below and above 30km/h (don't make me do the conversion to mph right now :)) and then see if it goes away automatically.
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The half second trac off button will also let you get wheel spin from a dead stop. Useful if you're just doing launches. I've forgotten to turn off trac when launching and it just accelerates like a snail.
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Here's how the traction works on the Canadian version (I don't know if other markets are different):
- VSC Sport mode can be enabled with the right button at any speed. It will stop reducing power so much but will still apply rear brake if you slide more than a little bit. - A short press of the left button will disable traction control until speeds exceed ~40km/h (or until the rear wheels reach 40km/h). This can be combined with VSC. - A long press will disable traction/VSC and remove power restriction and the car will no longer apply rear brakes when you slide. The system will however turn itself back on if it detects a zero-grip scenario on the rear wheels (for example, one comes off the ground). On top of this, you still have the other computer aids (ABS, EBD). This can only be done when the speed is under 50km/h (though the manual says you have to be stationary). To turn EVERYTHING off you need to do the pedal dance. This will permanently disable traction control as well as ABS & EBD. You're on your own until the car is restarted, and the traction buttons do nothing. The pedal dance must be done with the car fully warmed up and stationary within a minute of starting. - Start the car (mine's MT so I move it to neutral at this point) - disengage the e-brake if it is on - pull the e-brake 3 times, locking it on on the third pull - tap the brake 3 times, holding it on the third - release and pull the e-brake 3 more times while holding the brake pedal, locking on the third pull again - release and tap the brake pedal 2-3 more times If it worked, the traction control lights will come on and the traction buttons won't turn it off again. The only way to re-activate the assists are to restart the car. |
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If a rear wheel lifts or the system detects single wheel spin, the "electronic diff" is still active, and will engage. This will be indicated by the slip light flashing in the tach, and the VSC/TC lights turning off. They will turn back on and the slip light disappear when the car stops detecting single wheel spin. This CAN happen while hard driving, and will force the car to understeer, which is why we recommend anyone tracking do the pedal dance. At this time, I can replicate this issue at will. |
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Maybe, but I'd be surprised if this were true. Perhaps someone could test this on the road/track. It would be easier on the tires to test this in the wet to avoid "squaring off" your tires if in fact the ABS is disabled. |
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Mike, can you share your experience with the EBD being disabled. It is my understanding that these cars no longer employ a brake proportioning valve to manage the front -> rear brake balance under varying conditions. The EBD now manages that; but, if it's disabled, then wouldn't both front and rear wheels get identical brake force? That's not good... I'm only speculating here, but I'm concerned about doing the pedal dance for the street and then finding myself zooming into a downhill corner out in the country and having my rears lock up and try to pass the fronts into the corner. I don't like that kind of excitement. ;) Can you share your experience, please, and help me understand this better? Thanks. |
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In fact, you won't have any rear locking up issues since ABS is still active :D What it does do, is let you properly trail brake. |
Any front engine car is going to have significantly more front brake than rear brake. Only mid and rear engine vehicles will deviate from that.
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Thanks, Mike. |
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Doing the pedal dance creates an ABNORMAL setup; the EBD is now disabled. The EBD was there for a good reason. It was to create the stable balance you describe as true of "any front engine car." But, we've just turned it OFF. Your description may no longer be applicable. That changes things. There could be unintended consequences if the rear brakes are now getting the same hydraulic pressure as the front brakes. Due to weight transfer under heavy braking, the fronts can tolerate a great deal more braking pressure before locking up than can the lightly loaded rears. (I know you know this, Orbital, I'm elaborating a bit for the benefit of some of our readers who may be less familiar with these issues.) On another note, it's interesting to see that a number of autocross competitors who have tried the pedal dance have found it to be counterproductive, creating worse problems than the one they were trying to solve. A number of those competitors avoid the pedal dance. I suspect their experience may be due to the very sharp corners they encounter where they hike their inside hind leg (wheel) well up into the air, thus locking it up under braking, which then gets the ABS system riled up. It doesn't like that. Mike, on the other hand, is driving through much larger radius corners on road courses where I suspect he has both rear wheels rolling on the ground. I'm just speculating about all this stuff. |
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