Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB

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-   Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=59)
-   -   Which brake package is the better value (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42040)

vignesh 07-18-2013 09:27 PM

Which brake package is the better value
 
I am looking to upgrade the stock braking system, but on a budget so no bbk at moment. I am thinking maybe brake lines and better rotars would go a long way to improving the stock braking system
Cant decided between these two though

http://ft86speedfactory.com/stoptech...grade-216.html
http://ft86speedfactory.com/images/stp_977.jpg

http://ft86speedfactory.com/ft-86-sf-stage-427.html
http://ft86speedfactory.com/images/ft86sfbrake2.jpg

andrewFT86 07-18-2013 10:19 PM

If you are really on a budget. Lines (change the brake fluid when you do this), pads and master brake cylinder.
Given your the two choices, I would go with the Stage 2 kit.

RehabJeff86 07-18-2013 10:22 PM

If you track --> Project Mu Club Racer F/R pads and Motul RBF600 fluids are all u need

If you dont track --> keep it stock, dont bother wasting money, OEM systemt is very well built and last long long time

mrk1 07-19-2013 08:49 AM

What kind of driving do you do? If you have never over heated your stock pads then save your money.
The pad selection is pretty different in those options. The Hawk/DBA is more aggressive then the StopTech.
I run a Stoptech BBK just because I love brakes not because I need them and I have the Stoptech pads. They are great for street use.

wparsons 07-19-2013 09:17 AM

IMO, all you NEED are pads and fluid for track use. Unless you're REALLY serious about time attack the stock rotors are plenty good. If you're into endurance racing then you'll need a BBK, but I doubt that's the case here.

I personally also added a MC brace and stainless lines, but those are for feel not braking power or fade resistance.

What specifically do you feel needs improving?

WolfsFang 07-19-2013 11:58 AM

Sticky tires and better brakes/fluid is all you need. Bbk is just a waste of money.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 4 Beta

celica73 07-19-2013 11:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wparsons (Post 1081174)
IMO, all you NEED are pads and fluid for track use. Unless you're REALLY serious about time attack the stock rotors are plenty good. If you're into endurance racing then you'll need a BBK, but I doubt that's the case here.

I personally also added a MC brace and stainless lines, but those are for feel not braking power or fade resistance.

What specifically do you feel needs improving?

My car stops just fine with upgraded pads and a good high temp fluid. No overpriced slotted rotors needed, no braided steel lines needed, no MC brace needed.

I regularly autocross and occasionally track (2-3 events/year) the car.

CSG Mike 07-19-2013 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WolfsFang (Post 1081473)
Sticky tires and better brakes/fluid is all you need. Bbk is just a waste of money.

I dunno about that... this is WITH a BBK, and no power adders, and street tires.

https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...4_472993_n.jpg

wparsons 07-19-2013 02:16 PM

To be fair, what sort of event were you running when they were that hot? Was it a time attack (~3 hot laps max) or more of an endurance format?

wparsons 07-19-2013 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by celica73 (Post 1081478)
My car stops just fine with upgraded pads and a good high temp fluid. No overpriced slotted rotors needed, no braided steel lines needed, no MC brace needed.

I regularly autocross and occasionally track (2-3 events/year) the car.

Lines and MC brace won't do a single thing for stopping power/distance, but they do make the pedal feel a lot better. Definitely not needed, but for the ~$100 on lines I figured I might as well do them when I was flushing out the OEM fluid anyway.

WolfsFang 07-19-2013 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CSG Mike (Post 1081581)
I dunno about that... this is WITH a BBK, and no power adders, and street tires.

https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...4_472993_n.jpg

What I'm saying is you won't see a big difference going to Bbk. You will probably stop 6 feet less. If you have the means to blow a few grand to stop 6 feet less go right ahead. Also that pic can be done with better pads/rotors and will run you less than 600.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 4 Beta

vignesh 07-19-2013 02:47 PM

I am talking about canyon driving. While driving downhill specially . I noticed a huge difference ce and the brakes fade way too fast for my liking. BBK I think is am overkill in my opinion. I was thinking more in the route of just better rotors and pads. My question was that the stop tech replaces all 4 discs while the stage 2 gives u Dba rotors in the front and some motul brake fluid. Which would yield better breaking and less fade. Uphill and downhill driving in the canyon an hour puts a lot of stress on the breaks much more than say a typical auto cross run.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

swift996 07-19-2013 02:58 PM

Pads + Fluid...stainless lines are cheap too

CSG Mike 07-19-2013 03:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wparsons (Post 1081880)
To be fair, what sort of event were you running when they were that hot? Was it a time attack (~3 hot laps max) or more of an endurance format?

Just a ride-along at the last FT86CUP event (HPDE). This picture is from the end of the first (and only) hot lap.

Here's another picture at the beginning of the hot lap. The temperature gradient is much more obvious here because the rotors haven't soaked as much heat yet.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.n...02048384_n.jpg

Quote:

Originally Posted by vignesh (Post 1081974)
I am talking about canyon driving. While driving downhill specially . I noticed a huge difference ce and the brakes fade way too fast for my liking. BBK I think is am overkill in my opinion. I was thinking more in the route of just better rotors and pads. My question was that the stop tech replaces all 4 discs while the stage 2 gives u Dba rotors in the front and some motul brake fluid. Which would yield better breaking and less fade. Uphill and downhill driving in the canyon an hour puts a lot of stress on the breaks much more than say a typical auto cross run.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

Even with the BBK, I can (and will) fade the brakes, with a BBK, with 2000+F MOT pads when canyoning. Canyoning is often harder on brakes, since you don't see high enough speeds to really get a lot of cooling on the brakes, and you're constantly braking back to back.

It really comes down to what each person needs at their level of comfort and experience.

In our case, the BBK's ultimate purpose is to reduce long term operating cost; the extra fade resistance is just a perk.


Quote:

Originally Posted by WolfsFang (Post 1081932)
What I'm saying is you won't see a big difference going to Bbk. You will probably stop 6 feet less. If you have the means to blow a few grand to stop 6 feet less go right ahead. Also that pic can be done with better pads/rotors and will run you less than 600.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 4 Beta

The BBK doesn't reduce stopping distance in any way. See this post: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...54&postcount=2

On a side note, 6 feet, when braking with ABS, is the difference between impacting the car in front of you at ~10mph (and taking out your bumper, impact beam, as well as theirs, and other misc damage), or stopping right at their bumper.


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