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Help! Oil Cooler Install
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I threw my dilemma out to some folks individually via pm's but I want to see if the broader community can help.
I decided to assemble a DIY oil cooler kit with the Mocal thermostatic plate. Rather easy build and install, other than the back of the sandwich plate hitting what I think is a high pressure fuel line behind the oil filter connector. As you can see from the pic, you have limited left and right orientation options due to the stock air box and the oil filler cap. I spoke to Mocal and they tested this piece on a stock car. what am I missing? I can't believe that they R&D assumed it was ok for this sandwich to make constant contact with the metal line. I can really twist things to get about a paper's width clearance between the sandwich and the line, but thats it. I don't feel safe driving the car with those pieces touching, and unless I can figure out a solution the kit is coming off the car. I very much appreciate the help. |
You seem to be the first install with stock air box. Others have had CAI and Vortex. I have spent a good amount of time designing a DIY oil cooling system with extras. A2L such that you selected is one of the designs considered. Now to your issue--
Several options are available. 1. Modify your stock air box. But your text indicates that is not what you would prefer to do. 2. Install a CAI. Pick one. All would solve fitment dilemma. 3. Install an engine to filter adapter that is available from several sources which allow attachment of oil pressure and temperature sensors between the block and oil filter. These adapters cost less than 50 dollars, depending on source, and appear to be 25 to 30mm in height. If this would allow enough clearance then I suggest the stack-up as Mocal spacer, adapter, Mocal plate, and filter. Edit: this stack-up depends on the adapter being the same height as the Mocal plate. I believe option 3 would be the easiest and least costly alternative if FI or a CAI was not in your immediate future. Best of luck and thanks for sharing your fitment problem. |
Option 3 would work but how would you connect all three? There is a brass tube filter extender that runs down the middle, it would need to account for both sandwichs
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You are in Houston. Just skip the thermostat. Put a piece of cardboard over the cooler during the winter.
Mocal also offers banjo fittings for their sandwich plates, they would allow you to clock the plate differently (see this pdf http://97.74.32.155/files/sp1t.pdf). For option #3 you would have a pair of the brass tubes down the middle. Thanks for suffering through this so I don't have to. |
I spoke to mocal and they don't recommend installing a guage adapter as a solution. In addition, they didn't recommend running without a thermo (especially since I have one).
They claim to have sold hundreds of these things without issue so I'm really confused as all those sales can't be to people with CAIs. I sent Mocal a pic and I may try filing the piece down in that one little area to give myself a mm or two of clearance once Mocal gives me the ok to do so. |
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Mocal has suggested filing down the hex nut to provide more clearance which I will do. I'm going wrap the sandwich in tape to prevent metal shavings from entering the unit while I work on it. Will let folks know more once I test things. I hope that fixes the problem. if it works I'll add it to the DIY in the engine section as I hope that is the last modification to make this thermostat work.
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Too bad Mocal didn't design their plate like this.
http://www.auto-types.com/images/_au...ngine_3871.jpg |
I can't see it in the picture - you are using the spacer under the thermostat adapter, right? (I think it's just the angle of the photo, it pretty much has to be there).
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I am using the spacer, it's just not tall enough for the back of the thermostat plate to clear that hard metal line (the nut/cylinder thing on the right side makes contact)
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Your line maybe higher than most. Mine clears but I will take pictures.
The other thing you may have to change, like I plan to is to run stainless lines with different fittings. I think the Aeroquip hoses are too thick and the push on fittings take up too much space. (I attached my setup) This is the mocal with the fullblown lines instead you can see the size differeence. http://brz.ridedomain.com/oil_cooler/oil_cooler3.jpg |
Dezoris,
I appreciate your pics and color. Just to be clear, I can get the sandwich to "fit" but it ends up physically resting rght on or next too the fuel line with no material space. For example, can you slide a business card between your sandwich and your fuel line with your setup? having the stock airbox removed certainly gives you some more options in terms of orientation. |
Update!
Mocal's suggestion to shave the hexnut was a success, with that material gone you get full clearance over the fuel line which allows for both clearance and rotation without compromising the sandwich integrity. If you have any issues with positioning shave down a corner/side of the hexnut and you will be fine. I put the sandwich in a plastic bag and taped around the hex nut to protect it from metal shavings. In addition, a big thanks to Perrin Performance for their help with my issues even though it wasn't their product. Should you decide to buy a pre made oil cooler kit, I highly recommend you buy it from them, if for no other reason than their customer service (they make great products too). |
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Glad you got it figured out. And yes, buy Perrins kit if you don't want to deal with all this mainly for support reasons you have someone to help. The fact that they helped and it was not their kit technically is pretty cool. @PERRIN_Chris |
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