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You can start with not touching the internals:
- Headers - Over pipe/front pipe - Axleback/catback exhaust - Cold Air Intake - Lighter pulleys? - ECUTek or Unichip tune Weight reduction can include the rear seats delete kits, going for carbon products (hood, trunk, etc.) I'm not sure about the horsepower gains but you're not getting very good results without FI, but since you're persistent on going without FI I suggest building the motor and I'm sure you'll see pleasurable horsepower gains. |
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\Thanks if you were to go with FI would you go turbo or supercharger for reliability ? |
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In other words, if your car is a daily drive and you don't want fuel-cuts, spark-cuts, rich fuel, re-tuning every day, bla bla bla bla meaning a headache then go for a supercharger since it would be installed, tuned and voila. It's really hard to choose between them if you're going for reliability as a main concern, but to answer your question for reliability and less time in the garage and having the car stopped because something is not working properly or broken then an hks supercharger would do just fine however, if you want good horsepower gains, hear a turbo spool/bov on every gear change and actually be a japanese car enthusiast then of course turbo! I had so many projects and I've never went through a supercharged setup so I might be biased a bit. |
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Considering seeing the HKS 86, I think it would do sooooo much better with a setup like crawford's brz. In fact any other 86/FRS/BRZ would do so much better. |
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header back exhaust polished intake and exhaust runners cams valves & valve springs larger injectors E85 tune higher redline (9k rpms?) you'll loose some low end but eh who cares lol EDIT my last car had 220whp - 230whp (depending on the dyno) from a 1.8L engine 220 whp should not be something hard to get on this car, biggest thing no one has really done is cams... so we can wait and see or you can do it... |
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1. oil pump grenading (this was a problem on my old car, no signs of considerable wear, the pump gear would just blow up from centrifugal forces) 2. cylinders falling apart from g-forces (get forged pistons with similar cup designs, mahle does a pretty good job mimicking the OEM style) |
I would just do a filter. Seems like an actual intake is useless for the money. I see air filters yield same gains and cost $50 compared to $350.
Just my thought. Now Im no expert, however: The thing is that the car is a 2 liter high compression motor making 200bhp which equals 100hp per liter. To the wheels, the car makes ~160 depending on location, elevation etc etc. A FULL exhaust from the header back I have seen gain almost 20whp with a tune. An intake/filter will get you another 3-5 maybe. That being said, just with bolt ons and a tune, you're looking about 180-190whp. That's the equivalent of how much at the crank? Around 230bhp? That's 215hp per liter which is almost as much as the F20C motor in the S2000. That's pretty impressive in my opinion. By working the internals a bit, I'm sure you could squeeze out another 10 or so whp but I'm not sure. E85 tune is honestly the best bet. I've seen dyno results where people a making 200whp+ just on intake, catback and E85 tune. |
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