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Look at those pads. You won't ever be generating enough heat in autox to fade them. You want something with that high initial bite for those monster stabs on the brakes. Really same concept for most street driving. If you can live with brake noise then you can go more aggressive. |
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I'm sure *most* people who do any sort of motorsports won't care too much about dust.
Carbotechs are pricier, but their dust is EXTREMELY easy to clean off. Literally, hose down the wheel as long as it's not caked on. |
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That being said, I'm don't how important it is to have a dedicated track pad for autoX. I would guess you want it for the bite since fade shouldn't be an issue for such a short period of time at low speeds. Ferodo DS2500 are a dual duty type of pad which might suit your purposes. The negative of those pads is that they dust a ton for street use. |
Just FYI, if you are running a cooler flowing vented brake kit like the AP kits, even the Ferodo DS2500 can make noise..maybe a lot of noise. It'll stay too cool and scrub off it's own bed layer and then screech.
Source: my DS2500 killed mosquitoes and broke wine glasses |
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There is no noise except a tiny squeak when you first get onto the brakes, or if you're braking VERY lightly. Anyone local is welcome to ride to experience :) |
My self and one other on these forums have used DS2500 on previous cars without a squeak but now along with the Sprint kit they are squealing badly at low pedal pressure on the street. So much so I sometimes use the handbrake, at low speed, coming up to traffic lights.They handle the track I go to so I can't be bothered changing them.
Everything's a compromise except for those things that aren't. |
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(I'm in the finance industry... ROI ROI ROI) |
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I have the AP Sprint Kit...like Snooze, my DS2500 squeal badly. I switched to Carbotech 1521 on the street for now and it seems mostly silent after bedding. Edit - to clarify, I think the combination of the j-hook slots making things more abrasive, and then the extra cooling capacity means the DS2500 doesn't get up to temp often enough to maintain the bed layer. I'm no expert and just guessing, but it makes sense. I can clearly see that when bedded (and after track) the rotor is a nice dark metal burnished color. After a few days, it's back to hyper bright shiny silver and squeling. The CT 1521s squeeled once or twice initially, and now bedded the rotor is back to the dark grey color and is quiet. I'm not sure what else the case would be, but I'm certainly open to other explanations. |
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I spend enough time prepping the car already, with events every week (I'm in the middle of 11 in a row right now). I'm already one of the last in the lot changing tires and then I have a 1-2 hour drive every time.
So let me ask this, then.. some seem to think I don't need pads at all. I'm not a great driver but I want to get my car at least close to fully prepped for stock class so I can gauge myself against other drivers. Right now I have pretty much everything but struts, which I'll probably hold off on for the rest of this year (because I somewhat unreasonably want to come up with a set of donor struts for Konis), and brakes. Are better pads worth the money? I've never bothered in any of my other cars. Oh, and who has a set of front struts they want to get rid of cheap? :D |
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Honestly you don't need them for autox. But a more agressive street pad with a good bleed will help the car stop harder faster and if you are looking for few 10ths it may help. But its not going to blow you away. If you are running nationals or pro I would say do it. Mike gave a good street/autox list. For regionals save your money. I hate swapping stuff after autox. Get stuck working 1.5 hours on hot black top at 5PM you want to get home. |
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