finished the install... nothing's working... don't quite get why. I've emailed the tech support. will see if they respond...
I'm trying to deduct the bare minimum cabling needed just for the start/stop to work to see if the brain is even functional. should have done it prior soldering. trusted too much that nothing would go wrong... well, at least good soldering practice, and good exercise to fit underneath the steering wheel.
I've taken picture as I went along. once I get it to function *fingers crossed* I'll post few pictures that can be supplementary to the thread.
in the meanwhile do you guys have any suggestions as to what I could try to get things working?

Hard to say without more info. Does the button light up at all? Have you tested everything with a volt meter to see if there is power running to the brain?

well stupid me, I had not hooked up the ground :)
now remote start works, start/stop button works.
door lock/unlock does not work. I've checked the cables again and again I'm 100% sure the door lock unlock wires are correct. I'm checking to see if Door Trigger is somehow wrong. it is correct according to the table on OP's post. Scytek seems to be working, mini fuse tap I suppose is correct. I get a little (+) mV reading out of it. Not sure what exactly I need to get there. I'll check the manual.
the horn works so good that I am about to rip it out. annoying as hell trying to figure out the lock/unlock :(
haven't even touched Trunk release yet. not as important at the moment...do I need this to get the door lock/unlock to work? i figured not.. right?

don't really wanna go to the dealer with this. I need to figure out the locks! *sigh*

Does the immobilizer bypass work with your valet keys? My issue is with the immobilizer. Keeps clicking like it's not hooked up. Is there a way to test to see if that piece is possibly dead? I've used my valet and spare key with the same result of the immobilizer constantly clicking and killing my battery.

well yes. I placed the original valet key into the immobilizer box. then I placed the duplicate key that I had made into the ignition as instructed. did you wrap that coil around the ignition? I first hold it with my hands to see if it was working. after I concur I wrapped it around with electrical tape.

Sure did. I wrapped it and I've held it with the same results. The duplicate key is in the on position right? I've tried it every which way.

yes it is. Just in case, you might wanna try putting the original key in the ignition, if you haven't broken off the valet key head and try if that works.

did you wire the ignition harness exactly like OP suggested?
There are 2 brown wires, maybe try switching those. I guess they are both ignition and are interchangable, but check the harness I'd suggest...

BTW, I haven't done this yet, but the instruction manual that came with my kit suggests the use of relays for the 2nd ignition in order not to damage the starter engine. I'll do this once I get the damn door working.
http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps925a7c58.jpg

Locks were the trickiest part. The wires in my original post are the ones you want. The problem is most likely the inverter. Use a voltmeter to make sure a signal is coming out of the inverter to the wires. Also, be sure the fuse tap is in a slot that is always hot (and inserted correctly). You could try hitting the button twice to turn on the ACC mode, and then try the locks. If they suddenly work you have the fuse tap on as lot that is only active when the car is on. Also, try closing all the doors to test the locks. Finally, I seem to remember I initially had to hit unlock on the OEM key first, then the key easy go fob worked.

Are you sure it is the immobilizer? If the immobilizer isn't working you should be able to start the car and then the engine will cut out. If you are unable to start the car itself it may be something else. Be sure the brake trigger is working, the led in the middle of the start button should blink green when you depress the brake, then hit the button. Also, be sure the antenna for which detects the key fob is installed correctly, and that the fob is in the car. Sometimes you have to hit the unlock button while in the car to disarm the security in the brain, then try starting it.

Will it work with a normal key in the ignition or is that possibly why it won't start? I get the green blink with the brake pedal and push of the button but no start.

how about the clutch, did you disable that too?
It should work with a normal key afaik. I just offered this idea in case the coil was not placed properly... I'll check when I go home if this is in fact the case. and I remember seeing a list of reasons in the manual as to why you get no start. I'll check in 2 hours.

Maybe I'm jumping to conclusion. I am under the understanding that your start/stop does not work. is that right? or are you just getting the clicking sound?

BTW, reading your post again, if I remember correctly, I have my ignition on the ACC, not at ON.

Just getting a clicking. It will start with the normal key but no sound except the immobilizer click with the push button.

Thank you for the help.

wow my battery is dead! awesome. clicking chirping sounds and lights blinking as the indication. is that what yours is like? Good thing I was at work with bunch of other cars was able to do a jump start.

That is exactly what mine is doing.

Unless you put the immobilizer back over the ignition hole when you used the key, if the immobilizer was the problem it would cut out after starting, even with the key. Sounds to me more like a wiring issue somewhere. Were you ever able to get the button to start the car? Does it cycle through the acc/on/ and then off settings when you push the button without pressing the brake?

Never got it to cycle at all. The button will blink green though when pushed.

Sounds to me like the something is wrong with the ignition wiring. Be sure that the ignition harness is hooked up exactly as I say in the original post.

Haven't had chance this week so far to work on the relays, been trying to understand the system better in detail.

I was looking at the ignition wiring and dug into TIS wiring diagrams and I've put my findings to excel and compared with OP's post. I'm trying to figure out if there is a better and more proper way of wiring these together.

http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5dd4d0a4.png

http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/...ps831e2fc2.png

My piezo alarm went dead today after car wash lol. I located it under the hood right above driver fender,but I guess that spot was getting a lot of water. Because of that, I went look for OEM buzzer & I just find out the location of the OEM buzzer. It seems it also has only two wires behind it which I believe - & +. I haven't try to connect it to try but I as soon as I figure it out, I will post details just in case someone prefers using OEM buzzer.

The OEM buzzer is not as simple as a trigger. I tried to get it to work a while ago, and from what I have read, even professional car alarm installers don't have a good solution. I don't recall the specifics, but the OEM buzzer doesn't actually generate the sound, it acts a speaker for a waveform which comes from the ECU. So, to get the OEM buzzer to work you would need to hook up the trigger to a specialized driver circuit which would power the OEM.buzzer. Or something like that.

Thanks for the info.
I guess I should stick with mini piezo then. :)

sorry I had been meaning to give my updates on my findings, been busy.

I have a question to you guys. well I live in MI so its pretty cold out here.
Sometimes when I try to remote start. it tries to ignite twice and fails, then horn beeps. I click on the start remotely a second time, then car starts. I'm trying to deduce if
1) remote start system is crappy
2) remote start brain not rated for cold temp
3) i did not do a top notch job on soldering
4) solder is crappy not rated for cold temp
5) I did not wire correctly
6) relays are crappy not rated for cold temp.
7) FRS starter motor is crappy. it takes longer to crank in cold weathers?
8) I placed the brain and relays above hd1, ed2 area; so close to the outside. is that causing this?

do you guys exhibit similar condition and which do you guys think is the biggest contender :)

Same thing happens to me occasionally when its cold, but not every cold day. I thought it was because of wire splicer I used on clutch wire not making good contact + vibration by ignition of engine, but my second guess would be the brain unit.

I have put mine today!


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nice! Welcome aboard :) How easy/hard for you to complete?

More of my issues. 2 days ago I opened the trunk via remote fob to put groceries, for some reason it turned on my radio. I though it'd shut it off after I pressed the off button on the fob, but it did not. still I thought maybe it is on a timer or something and will shut off in few, but it did not.
I thought all the kinks were gone. have to look at the wiring I suppose.

Lol this does that for some reason. I couldn't figure it out why it does that so I gave up. Now, I use trunk release only if I have to drive it after trunk use. In case of just getting some stuff out of trunk, I open driver side and use button on the dash. It is not as convenient as OEM trunk release, but not a big deal for me.

1- sorry if my respon is in french, but it will be more accurate.

2- j'ai tout fais installer chez Radio d'auto Martin. Le technicien a pris environ 5,5 heures de travail pour accomplir la tâche.

C'était la première fois qu'il installait un Easy Go système. Selon lui, le kit était très bien monté. Il y avait beaucoup de connections à faire selon son opinion. Il dit aussi que le système était conçu pour une transmission automatique , car il n'y avait aucun moyen de bypasser la voiture pour installer le démarreur à distance.

L'installation de la poignée a été le plus difficile , car le tuto de Cheetah ne disait pas comment le faire. Il fallait enlever un petit panneau sur l'extrémité de la portière.

La commande de la poignée fonctionne. Bien. Le color match est cool.

Je n'ai pas installé le détecteur de choc, car il partira tout le temps.

Il y a un morceau que ne m'ai pas installé, car il est reconnu pour démarrer des incendies dans la voiture. Je l'identifierai dans un édit prochainement.

Le démarreur à distance ne fonctionne pas. Je prend encore celui installé par le concessionnaire lors de l'achat.

Le bouton ouvre-valise a fonctionné seulement lors de l'installation. J'irai faire vérifier cela dans le futur.


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oh wow remote start does not work huh.

what piece did you not install that you think will cause fire?

Maybe try another tech?

The fuse tap

Attachment 101534


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well you kindda need that to get +12V and a fuse. did you hook the (+) elsewhere? like ignition cable? otherwise it would not function...

Bypass for clutch was posted few pages back. If you don't do it, remote start function does not work for MT.

What is the thing that could start a fire that you avoid install? As far as I remember, only a shock sensor and door handle can be skipped. Other components of the kit are required in order to work.

See above; the fuse tap!

Sorry I missed it.


Yeah that fuse tap is necessary unless your tech found other solution.

Edit/update: I suspect this caused by brain unit not cranking long enough when its cold. One day in last week, it was about 13°F & I tried to turn my car by remote starter, but it failed. So I went in the car and tried to start it while clutch and brake are pushed, but still failed for several times(This means that the clutch bypass was not the reason for doing it). I thought my battery went dead for a second but it was not dead.

While I was stuck at parking lot of work, I took the spare key out of immobilizer box and put the key in and turned it to ignition and held it until it started. Boom it started.

I think when it is cold temp out side, the engine requires slightly longer cranking time, but it seems like brain unit just cuts the power sooner right before it starts about (0.5 second early). I thought this brain unit will hold the cranking until engine starts, but my experience tells me it doesn't.

Does anyone know if we can adjust cranking time of brain unit?? or is it not adjustable?

exactly my thoughts as I've tried the same and reached the same verdict.

I'm sure with a firmware update/flash it'd be possible. I suppose they tried to find the sweet spot for crank time, however it should be steered towards cold weather cranking as I see no point in remote starting in summer, well at least not as much :)

With a slight programming and temp sensor, they can get outside temp and increase crank time accordingly imho, or just program it as you suggested until engine starts, but is there a signal that gets sent to the vehicle ECU in such case? I suppose there should be...

I wish EasyGo can be as easy as to get in touch with like two years ago. Did you try to contact them recently?? Last time I sent email inquiry was about year ago, and still no response lol~ Today, I will send another email about this issue & we'll see how they respond. Let's cross fingers. :)

I did email them couple months ago and they called me in 48 hours. If I'm not mistaken the reps name was Matt. I wrote it somewhere.

That's good news.
I hope they reply my email too.;)

I added a trunk lid button so that I can now pop the trunk manually. It is linked to the easygo kit. For a full DIY go here: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84673

http://u.cubeupload.com/Chaetagnath/IMG0408.jpg

I'm pretty freaking proud of this one.

OEM handle with touch sensor
 

I figured out how to swap the OEM handle with the touch sensor for the cheap one which comes with the easygo kit. Looks much better in my opinion.

http://u.cubeupload.com/Chaetagnath/IMG0447.jpg

The OEM handle works a little differently than the one which comes with the easygo kit, so it is not a straight swap, but its also not too difficult either. Also, I used the existing wires from the easygo kit handle, just modified them a little.

To do this swap you need:

OEM door handle: Part numbers (I think these are correct, you should double check for your car, especially since they have new variations on some colors)
SU003-01594 Blue
SU003-01595 Gray
SU003-01596 Orange
SU003-01597 Red
SU003-01598 Silver
SU003-01599 Black
SU003-01600 White
extra wires
soldering iron
Fuse tap (optional, you can just tap an existing 12 volt wire somewhere, as long as it is always hot, even when the car is off)
Female connector (I couldn't find a part number for this, but see below found it on ebay)

So this is what the OEM handle looks like:

http://u.cubeupload.com/Chaetagnath/IMG0445.jpg

http://u.cubeupload.com/Chaetagnath/IMG0446.jpg

Note, the male connector attached to the handle, it has 6 pins:

http://u.cubeupload.com/Chaetagnath/...umberszpss.png

For this install, only 3 pins are used, 1,2, and 5.

It may not be apparent from the photo, but those pins are really narrow, and the connector is pretty small. So, the easiest thing to do is simply get the female connector plug.

http://u.cubeupload.com/Chaetagnath/IMG0437.jpg

Unfortunately, I have no idea what the part number for this thing is. However, since I have a picture of it, I obviously obtained it from somewhere. I bought entire door harness off of ebay. It cost 30 bucks. The harness needs to be from either a BRZ limited, a 10 series, or a monogram. If you are unsure if it is the correct harness, the very end of it should be a grey connector like the one above. If it ends in a rectangular white connector, it is simply the same harness as what is already on your car. Anyway, I bought the harness, clipped the connector off, and the nice thing about doing it this way is it comes with all the wires already included! If you can't find one on ebay, probably the harness has a part number, but I don't know what it is.

Ok, so you have the harness, the wires you want are the yellow-black (corresponds to pin 1), black (corresponds to pin 2), and white-black wires (corresponds to pin 5). The remaining wires (red, light blue and white) are not needed and can be cut off, or left intact, but I cut them off so they would not be in the way.

http://u.cubeupload.com/Chaetagnath/IMG0442.jpg

These wires are connected as follows to the easygo kit/car

http://u.cubeupload.com/Chaetagnath/Chart.png

Basically, the handle is powered by the pin 5/2 combination. Pin 1 is the output from the handle when you touch the sensor.

The handle which comes with the easy go kit is simply a switch which completes a circuit so that the black wire (which is always sending a current, runs through the red wire (which is detected by the easygo brain). So, using the OEM handle, you connect pin 1 to the red wire door handle wire which runs to the easygo kit, and it sends a pulse, delivering the signal to the easygo brain. Works pretty nicely.

Pin number 2 I just connected to a wire and attached it to a bolt on the door frame. Pretty easy. The 12volt source for pin 5 I used a fuse tap and found an open fuse port on the fuse box (same as what I describe in the first page of this thread. Then I used the "other" wire which was run to the easy go door handle (and is no longer needed). Since it is already there, I just clipped it from where it comes into the footwell, and attached it to the fuse tap.

Only other thing I will say about this, is when you are installing the handle itself, it is better to slide the handle in first, then plug the harness in from the other side (you need to remove the door card anyway to wire the ground). I don't think the handle can slide into position if the harness is attached (which is probably why people who have BRZ limited/FRS monograms have such trouble removing their door handles).