Update: so in a unfortunate turn of events my car is on and won't shut off! Gonna try some thing to get it to turn off now. This kit has been nothing but a nightmare since support stopped!

Thanks. I guess I'll wait and see if I can get a deal on the advanced key option.
I've left my car in gear a few times and i wouldnt want that happening when remote starting.:eyebulge:

also, all the recent news of their support (or lack of) is steering me away... I guess ill pay a little more for something with more support.

I haven't had really any problems. You may want to try pulling the power from the box to reset it. Also, be sure all the connections are soldered, not tapped as eventually tapped connections will lose function.

Same thing happened to me in Feb. I had no idea how to stop it, so I ended up taking it to the dealership (just around the corner fortunately) and the service guy managed to stop it by pulling a relay under the hood. After replacing the relay it started working again. He showed me which relay (just in case it happened again) but its been working fine ever since.

I wish it will never happen to me. Mine works fine without any issue so far. I'm hesitating for going back to all those wires and solder. I just wish my t taps are working forever~ lol

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And btw what happen to all those support from EasyGo?? Do they just ignore our inquiry to lead us to authorized installer? Or they just went out of business??

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I have no idea. The last time I tried to contact them was about a year ago, and they got right back to me. I'm pretty sure they are still in business, maybe they only work with authorized installers now.

I emailed them from a different email to try and get a response and nothing yet. I still have the old software with a non working remote start, which is one of the main reasons I bought this lol. I ended up disconnecting the connector for the ignition under the steering wheel, turned off right away and then just plugged it back in. Been working perfect ever since.

I would NEVER trust t connectors long term. I install avionics for a living and I grabbed some proper connectors from work when I did mine. Did you guys reconnect your ignitions for a back up? I never bothered putting it all back.

Any concerns that without an immobilizer and steering lock that the car is alot more open to theft, I'm interest in doing this on my 4runner but have always been curious about this.

I feel like some could just smash a window, throw her in neutral and put it on a flat bed. Then buy a new easygo unit, since you've already done the wiring for him, he simply plugs in a new unit and away he goes to Mexico.

Just a thought, anything in the install to prevent this?

That I thought about it before but I know for sure if someone is trying to steal my car, it doesnt matter really for car thieves. If my car is their target, they can easily get it no matter what kind of security system I have. So why not lol~

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Too true. My buddies stock RSX was stolen a couple months ago. The immobilizer and steering wheel lock didn't do him any good. Car was just gone. If they want your car they will get it.

The easy go system does add an alarm in the form of your horn beeping (if you hook it to the horn trigger or a piezo siren if you go that route) if they open the door without disarming. Realistically if you want to prevent theft, always park your car in a secured garage (if you have one), and/or install something like lojack to track the car if it gets stolen.

Hey OP and others

I just redone all the connections with soldering.
It was never fun because im not really good at soldering
but I guess it is worth trying lol :)

Now, I just noticed that my car is acting slightly different than before.

After I lock the car, it turns parking lights on for few seconds
and it turns off.

I assume that one of the t-taps wasnt making good connection
(I suspect beige wire in D5 connector but maybe im wrong)
so I was missing it all the time until today.

Is it normal for you guys? or does it look like I did something wrong?

That is normal. Should blink once when you lock it and twice when you unlock. It will also chirp the horn.

What i mean is it turns parking light on after lock blinker.
What you explain was normal i know but below...
So I lock, it blinks with horn & then second or 2 later it turns parking light on for about 3 seconds and goes away.

Yeah that's normal. I'm not sure why it does the longer light. Might have something to do with telling you the alarm is armed.

Thanks :)
Now im really convinced that t taps are not comparison to solder.lol

Yeah, I think t taps are fine to help set things up initially and make sure everything works, but ultimately they will come loose, which is not a good thing when you need to start your car. Soldering is permanent, and really not that difficult once you do it a few times.

Here is a link to a discounted kit
 

Wow 399??
Lol I should wait 1 year.

So reviving the thread. I've wired everything and got everything but the button itself to start the car. I have noticed two wires coming out of the button which aren't hooked to anything. Are those necessary to put anywhere? Thanks for the help!:iono:

Not sure what you are talking about. Can you post a picture?

Comes out of the back of the button. not sure if they're necessary to hook up or not. I know the brain is getting power because everything works except for the start button.

I don't think mine has that, or it's been so long since I installed it that I forgot what I did with it. Pretty sure it's not on mine though.

Not on mine either. Our button just look like OEM button. On the back of it, it only has plug for the harness to be connected. No wire there.

Darn that's really weird. I guess I can try and wire it and see what happens with it.

I think they might changed start button for different kind. I assume those wires should be for power source of the button otherwise it doesn't make sense.

That's what I was thinking to because it looks like a power and ground wire anyways. I will give it a shot on Monday when I'm off again and update. Fingers crossed it works or I think I might just go back to the key. This thing has been super tedious to work on.

I ordered mine today on Amazone.ca

EasyGO AM-FRS-E8H Smart Key Remote Start and Alarm System with Ultramarine Driver's Door Handle for Scion FR-S

Automotive
Sold by Amazon.com.ca, Inc.

CDN$ 262.26

Item Subtotal: CDN$ 262.26
Shipping & Handling: CDN$ 0.00
Estimated Tax (GST/HST): CDN$ 13.11
Estimated Tax (PST/QST): CDN$ 26.16
Order Total: CDN$ 301.53

J'ai hâte!

How long time does it take to the installation of Push-to-Star and Smart keyless door kits?

I am expecting mine to arrive today and hopefully work on it over the weekend.
I've ordered all the parts Chaetagnath mentioned. So we'll see how it goes.

One question I started to wonder, the viper and compustar are advertising the range of the remote. How is this one compared to those? mile? few feet? from anywhere?

It's not great, but not terrible. Maybe 50 feet or so.

And there is no smartphone add on device coming right? I was kinda waiting for it but it seems its not gonna be available any soon.

@Chaetagnath, I do not seem to have this harness for some reason. Can you please elaborate where exactly you connected the wires coming from the door handle? Did you connect them to the Door lock / Unlock wires on the brain? or on ED2? or somewhere else?

@Stormalong, @Chaetagnath; My kit came with 3 relays with sockets. So I will use the one for this purpose. Can you please elaborate what exactly you did.

87 and 86-12 volts constant Did you use 1 fuse tap for this or 2?
85-red and black wire from the brain (trunk release wire) ok
87a-cut trunk motor wire(car side) Not sure what this is, is this on the table below?
http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps4b232f11.jpg
30-cut trunk motor wire (trunk side) Where can I find this one
The white wire from the brain is not used.ok

Thank you!

That harness plugged directly into the brain, and then the black and red wires are soldered to the wires coming from the handle. Either they have changed the harnesses that come with it and those wires are somewhere else, or they forgot to include it.

The trunk release is the brown one (I think, it's been a while), coming out of pin 4 on the HD1 connector. Basically you have to cut that wire (do it a ways out from the pin to the yourself some slack). Then, the end running into the HD1 connector is the car side, the other other end is the trunk side. I think I only used one fuse tap and just used it as the 12 volt source for both. Just be sure you tap a fuse which is always hot so the trunk will open when the car is off.

@Chaetagnath So, in the above picture, if you can remember where you attached that harness, that would be very helpful.
Maybe this one?:
http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/...psb3ac60fd.jpg

Also, the guide suggest putting the antenna's in the A pillar, where an airbag exists. Where did you guys place the antennas. I'll open the A pillar cover and see if there is available space away from the airbags.

As you are looking down on it on that picture, it is connected in the left side, two slots from the top. I think.

ow wow, I somehow totally put that harness aside because it said GPS module.
Right I have the harness, it mounts to 1st one on the left.
Thanks man! I will add few pictures to anyone interested in this thread I guess over the weekend. couldn't finish it this weekend...