I've wondered the exact same thing.

Edit: It looks like there is a motor which controls the steering wheel lock in BRZ limiteds. From the manual:

"Steering lock
After turning the push-button ignition switch off and opening and closing the
doors, the steering wheel will be locked due to the steering lock function.
Operating the push-button ignition switch again automatically cancels the
steering lock.

When the steering lock cannot be released
■Steering lock motor overheating prevention
To prevent the steering lock motor from overheating, the motor may be suspended
if the engine is turned on and off repeatedly in a short period of time.
In this case, refrain from operating the engine. After about 10 seconds, the
steering lock motor will resume functioning.

I tried 3rd option for removing steering wheel lock & it is actually much easier then I thought. After removing spring and top metal piece, I just pushed lock piece all the way in then grab it hard as I could by using needle nose plier and pulled it hard then it came right out.
I wish I could take some picture or video while I was doing it, but the space is so tight.

Now, I just need to work on clutch switch for remote start.

I got the new brain unit and still trunk release not working.
I cut that brown wire half and connected it as described in DIY, but still no trunk pop.
I don't know what I did wrong.

Hi guys, I installed this kit in my FR-S this weekend, and I thought I'd share some notes.

First of all, many thanks to Chaetagnath for the DIY, it was very helpful.

Its possible that I'm the first in Canada to have this done, since EasyGo (selling via Amazon.com) doesn't ship to Canada. I contacted EasyGo about this, and they said they will be selling via Amazon.ca "soon", but I didn't want to wait so instead I used a service called Kinek.com. Basically you have your package shipped to a location just across the border (in the US, Lewiston NY in my case, but they have a whole bunch of locations) and then you drive down and pick it up. Cost me $10 plus the gas to get there and back. Of course, this only works if you live within a "reasonable" distance of the border, which I do (about 1.5 hours). Plus I'm still breaking in the engine so I'm happy to put some KMs on. :)

I started about 10am on Saturday, went till about 9:30pm, and then spent about another 4 hours Sunday afternoon. I think it would have been twice as fast if I'd had someone helping me. As I was I constantly had to stop what I was doing to go back and refer to the DIY pictures and other documentation. But nothing about it was really hard. Well, aside from running the wire from the door to cabin, as has already been mentioned. That was really a bitch.

Also, I wasted a good two hours on a really stupid thing. Turns out the brain will refuse to lock the doors via the keyfob if the door is open, and since you are working on the drivers side you probably have the door open. Unlock works, lock doesn't. I thought I had a wiring problem. Even worse, on Sunday when I was finishing up I couldn't get the locks to work again, even with the door closed! The "door open" light on the dash stayed on even with both doors closed. I was freaking out, I thought I had fried something. Turns out the car considers the trunk to be a "door", and I had the trunk open. Closed the trunk and everything started working. :bonk:

I used T-taps for the wiring and was pretty happy with how they worked. But it is cramped down there.

When shopping for the Scytek Inverter, be aware Scytek also has a similar device called the DLRM. I ordered this by mistake, because it said "Inverter" in the description of the product and it looks really similar (slightly bigger, a couple extra wires). I had trouble getting the locks to work on Saturday because of this, and I thought I was screwed. But I did some research Sunday morning and it turns out you can wire this thing to be a an inverter so I was ok. But just buy the right thing and you won't have to worry about it. :)
Related to this, I bought the fuse tap as suggested to power the inverter, but I bought the wrong one (I needed a *mini* fuse tap). So instead I just put a t-tap on the 12V line of the ignition harness, problem solved. I kinda prefer this anyways because I can put the lid back on the fuse box.

As with the other guys, the remote start doesn't work (starts, runs for 3 seconds, stops) and the trunk release doesn't work. I contacted EasyGo today and they are going to send me a new brain. I was hoping the box I was sent would already have the brain with the "fix" but no such luck.

Installing the door handle was pretty easy (except for the wire as mentioned above), and the paint matches perfectly (Firestorm Red), in case anyone was worried about that. As for running the wire I ended up using a unbent metal clothes hanger, with the wire taped to it to fish it through the rubber piece. I think it would be much easier to do if you just took the door completely off, but I don't know how hard that would be.

Installing the button itself was the easiest part. Contrary to the instructions I found I didn't have to remove the center console. I just popped off the trim on the right side and reached up inside and pushed out the USB connector (as described) and the just pulled out the panel out. The new panel with the button then just popped back in. Then just fish the button wire out the left side. Took 5 minutes.

I used option A for the steering wheel lock, which worked great, except that the cover won't go on because the key is in the way ( the cover has a stem which is supposed to slide into the cylinder where the key is supposed to go). So I'm not sure what I'm going to do about that. I might look at option C, or maybe cut the stem off and glue the thing on somehow.

It was a little pricey (I figure it'll be $750-$800 by the time I'm done), but I'm super happy with it. I grin every time I push that button and the engine fires up.

Glad to hear that worked out for you. As for the key cylinder cover, you can order the OEM cover (part number 34348CA000VH, I got mine from parts.com). It doesn't have a stem piece, just clips cleanly into the hole, so the cut off key shouldn't bump it. I initially clipped the stem off and used 3M tape, and that worked ok, but the OEM cover looks better anyway in my opinion, and is less than 10 bucks.

Got the new brain last week and installed it Saturday, the remote start now works! But, as with @nunonuna, the trunk release still doesn't work (which was really the thing I was more worried about).

I'm pretty sure I've got the right wire, because if I disconnect either of the two wires (red/black and white) then the trunk release button on the dash doesn't work. And when I push the button on the remote for the trunk release I can hear the brain clicking (relay I assume). Contacted EasyGo support, I'll see what they say.

They said we have to use a 5 wire relay which was sent with new brain unit.
Did they send you one? And did you try to hook it up with relay?

Sorry for the delay, had some trouble with this and finally got it sorted out last night.

Yes, apparently it requires an extra relay. They didn't send me one (I guess they were supposed to) but I just ran out and got one, $3 at the surplus store (the local auto parts store wanted $26!). Also got a socket for the relay that made it a bit easier to wire up. I guess these relays are pretty standard, if you find a 5 pin relay that has the pins numbered as described below (30,85,85,87,87a) then you have the right thing.

If you followed the instructions in the DIY you cut a the brown wire to hookup the red/black and white wires from the brain. So, disconnect those and wire up the relay like this:

87 and 86-12 volts constant
85-red and black wire from the brain (trunk release wire)
87a-cut trunk motor wire(car side)
30-cut trunk motor wire (trunk side)
The white wire from the brain is not used.

This works.

I originally connected the 12v to the ignition harness, same 12v I used for the Scytek Inverter. But when I popped the trunk the car would come on into ACC mode (!). So I changed that and tapped the fuse box (as described in the DIY) and now it seems to work fine.

Apparently this is an FR-S specific issue, as support says the brain works fine with all other Toyotas and Subarus they have tested without the extra relay.

I have to give props to the company, both support (for dealing with this issue) and customer service (for handling the replacement brain) were very helpful and responsive.

for the trunk release, are you guys sure you wired it correctly?

according to http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30665

the trunk release is the blue cable. Maybe give that a try and see if it works?

Back when I was figuring this thing out I tried that wire as well. Its definitly the brown 5 wire one that needs to be used. I also ended up using a relay like the previous poster mentioned (forgot to put that in the DIY).

Yes, we are sure about using correct wire~
Blue wire never works for me too~
We have to deal with trunk motor not the switch.

I thought it was kind of feature or the way it is, but I just now noticed that yours work fine.

Hmm it is strange that it still happens to me despite I used 12v from fuse box.
I just tapped the red wire from fuse tap which is already connected to scytek inverter.

I finally did Clutch bypass.
There are two switches attached to the clutch padel & the top one is the one I used. I will take picture and upload if I have chance.

It works perfect and very useful.

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would you be able to use the factory handles in place of yours?

sub'd

Any chance you can describe/picture this. would be much appreciated!

I posted pictures to help. And I will try my best to decribe it. Please understand if I don't make it clear since Eng is my second language. Sorry~ :)
Also sorry for low quality image but the area is too tight.

As you can see, there are two switches. One(second image) pressed in with clutch pedal pressed in & other one(top image) gets pressed with clutch pedal released.

The top one is what you have to deal with. Behind the switch there is harness with wires (part of it shows in one of the pictures).

There are two wires and you need to connect those wires to each other.
I used quick splice (attached picture). NOT t-tap.
This quick splice has one hole closed. And to run the both wires through the quick splice, you need to cut and remove small little plastic wall in splice. I'm sorry I don't know any better way to describe it.

Then you just use that modified splice to grap both wires.



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If I remember, I will try to draw on the picture and reupload when I get home.

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Do you mean door handle?
If so, yes stock handle works fine. You just need to use remote to unlock and lock the door.

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any body know how to remove the steering column cover? I already separated the two halfs but I cant remove the clips holding the cloth to the dash as i dont understand the clips...help!

Carefully pull it hard? That's what I did at least. Lol

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From where the rear edges? Just yank it?


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Sorry, I meant if you were to use the factory keyless entry handles with the built in sensors, in place of your own. I like the product, but I am not overly fond of the buttons.

That's a good question. It's something I've thought about trying for a while. If I ever get around to it I'll let you know.

Quick note for anyone doing this.... i got the key lock out with the ignition on the car, pulled out a little black piece (thinking it was the steering wheel lock). When did i find out it was not? when i turned the wheel to the other side to put the other screw in. I had to break the plastic to get the ignition back out to remove the lock (when the internals are out the key wont disengage the lock). Just a quick side note! Happy installs! :thumbup: lol

P.S. Thank you OP, don't know how this would have turned out without this DIY!

Have these instructions been confirmed to work with an oem push to start system?

Got a question for Chaetagnath!

I've just finished a remote start installation, everything work fine but the damn door lock just wont work.

I was hook on the door lock switch wire ( At BCM G/Y O/G or at kick panel Blue - Pink ) my remote start give negative output and the timing don't seem to work for the BCM.

How did you hook up your door lock?

Wow, great write up! Not sure if I'm going to try to tackle this.

Can anyone contact the manufacturer/company I can't reach them

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They usually respond fairly well when contacted at this email address: info@easygosystem.com

I've been trying to reach them since October 2013 lol

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I have had poor customer support. I have talked to them once about the remote start not working (firmware which is still wrong in dec/13) and they said remove the box and send it back. as i dismantled my ignition and my car is my dd its not that easy to do. so now i have no remote start. unless i can track down a old box someone has that is willing to send in for me (i will pay$$) so i don't have to take my car down! i was told this is due to a short supply of boxes. I emailed them 3 times since to see if they had them in stock yet, even offered to pay. no replies

Yeah, they used to reply me back next day I sent inquiry but since last fall, they haven't replied my last email yet. I don't know what happen with them.

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So if I were to order the Easy-Go system tonight, should I assume that all issues are fine or will some things not work and support be unable to help? (Since they stopped replying)

Possibly the remote start might not work, as they had some firmware with it originally. Most likely everything else will work, but the trunk will require a relay to work properly (as described in an earlier post).

Anybody with a 6MT with remote start working?

Mine works fine, but my brain unit was swapped with new firmware.
Im not sure if you will receive new updated unit or not.

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is there an input for "Neutral Safety" for the EasyGO system? From the picture of the wiring diagram on the first post it doesn't look like it, but its hard to tell given the resolution.

I am debating between the EasyGo and Advanced Key. EasyGo seem to be cheaper and a one stop option, but it looks like the Advanced Key system has more 'safety' options built in.

If your referring to a neutral safety for the remote start then no. I bypassed the clutch switch and you need to remember to leave it in neutral if you plan on remote starting. Take note if you go with the EasyGo many users (me included) have been unable to get any tech support lately. Your box will most likely come with a few glitches that you may be stuck with if you cannot get ahold of them. Most Everything still works except the remote start as far as i know.