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yes it is. Just in case, you might wanna try putting the original key in the ignition, if you haven't broken off the valet key head and try if that works.
did you wire the ignition harness exactly like OP suggested? There are 2 brown wires, maybe try switching those. I guess they are both ignition and are interchangable, but check the harness I'd suggest... BTW, I haven't done this yet, but the instruction manual that came with my kit suggests the use of relays for the 2nd ignition in order not to damage the starter engine. I'll do this once I get the damn door working. http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps925a7c58.jpg |
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Locks were the trickiest part. The wires in my original post are the ones you want. The problem is most likely the inverter. Use a voltmeter to make sure a signal is coming out of the inverter to the wires. Also, be sure the fuse tap is in a slot that is always hot (and inserted correctly). You could try hitting the button twice to turn on the ACC mode, and then try the locks. If they suddenly work you have the fuse tap on as lot that is only active when the car is on. Also, try closing all the doors to test the locks. Finally, I seem to remember I initially had to hit unlock on the OEM key first, then the key easy go fob worked. |
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Are you sure it is the immobilizer? If the immobilizer isn't working you should be able to start the car and then the engine will cut out. If you are unable to start the car itself it may be something else. Be sure the brake trigger is working, the led in the middle of the start button should blink green when you depress the brake, then hit the button. Also, be sure the antenna for which detects the key fob is installed correctly, and that the fob is in the car. Sometimes you have to hit the unlock button while in the car to disarm the security in the brain, then try starting it. |
Will it work with a normal key in the ignition or is that possibly why it won't start? I get the green blink with the brake pedal and push of the button but no start.
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how about the clutch, did you disable that too?
It should work with a normal key afaik. I just offered this idea in case the coil was not placed properly... I'll check when I go home if this is in fact the case. and I remember seeing a list of reasons in the manual as to why you get no start. I'll check in 2 hours. Maybe I'm jumping to conclusion. I am under the understanding that your start/stop does not work. is that right? or are you just getting the clicking sound? BTW, reading your post again, if I remember correctly, I have my ignition on the ACC, not at ON. |
Just getting a clicking. It will start with the normal key but no sound except the immobilizer click with the push button.
Thank you for the help. |
wow my battery is dead! awesome. clicking chirping sounds and lights blinking as the indication. is that what yours is like? Good thing I was at work with bunch of other cars was able to do a jump start.
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That is exactly what mine is doing.
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Sounds to me like the something is wrong with the ignition wiring. Be sure that the ignition harness is hooked up exactly as I say in the original post. |
Haven't had chance this week so far to work on the relays, been trying to understand the system better in detail.
I was looking at the ignition wiring and dug into TIS wiring diagrams and I've put my findings to excel and compared with OP's post. I'm trying to figure out if there is a better and more proper way of wiring these together. http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5dd4d0a4.png http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/...ps831e2fc2.png |
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The OEM buzzer is not as simple as a trigger. I tried to get it to work a while ago, and from what I have read, even professional car alarm installers don't have a good solution. I don't recall the specifics, but the OEM buzzer doesn't actually generate the sound, it acts a speaker for a waveform which comes from the ECU. So, to get the OEM buzzer to work you would need to hook up the trigger to a specialized driver circuit which would power the OEM.buzzer. Or something like that. |
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