Touge Factory Brake Cooling Kit Review
 

So before even purchasing my BRZ in April, I did a ton of research on the car and the results people were having after taking the stock BRZ/FRS to the track, and the common issue everyone seemed to have were brakes, and how badly and quickly they were overheating/failing on track. Not only just the pads, but there were issues of rotors cracking badly after a few track days, even fade with decent race pads, and in one case, the OEM rotor completely delaminating. So one of the main issues seems to be heat in the OEM brake setup, which I decided I needed to address since my "home track" is Sebring, and is notoriously hard on brakes, along with all kinds of other components. So I looked around, and found the @Touge Factory Brake Cooling Kit which looked like a great setup, and I decided to give it a try and see how it would help keep the temps down on track.

The kit is $400 plus shipping; for me shipping was about $17.08 I believe via UPS.

INSTALL:


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First off, with the install, the directions that Touge Factory provides are great. Honestly I was worried about the backing plates to be the worst part, but that turned out to be the easiest. Simply remove the hubs, put the backing plate in, wiggle the speed sensor back in, and bolt everything up.


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It was routing the hose that was the most difficult/dangerous. You may want to have an extra pint of blood and a transfusion kit handy. Its the damn edge of the heat shield on the header that chewed me up.

(Crime Scene Photos):


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The directions call for zip-tieing the hose in one place on each side to the splash guard, to pull the hose away (to the side) from the engine, but I ended up using an extra zip tie on each side to pull the hose downward from components as well.

Also, I installed some dive mesh in the front duct openings, which helped keep tire clag and bugs out, and was dirt cheap. I also changed the hose clamps on the front ducts from silver to black, for aesthetic reasons.

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My 1 of 2 complaints with the kit (just minor, but I am very very picky) itself was the ducts I received werent really cut the same, so it looks a little off when I installed it in my front grille: you can see the difference here, but then again it is a hand-made kit, so I'm not expecting it to be perfect.

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When bolting up the wheels and all, I noticed the clearance between the duct plates behind the rotor and the rotor itself was so close that in fact it touched a little (I could hear one "scrape" for every revolution of the tire), but obviously after a little driving it cleared itself up and scrape a little metal off the surface. Not an issue really, just an observation.

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My 2nd complaint is how the speed sensor line seems to rub against the opening of the cooling duct plate, so I wrapped that in heat tape, so this issue can be easily remedied. It would be nice for future kits to have something to protect the sharp metal edge from rubbing and possibly damaging the speed sensor line.

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All bolted up! I actually love the look of the ducts in the grille:

http://protouchphotography.smugmug.c...PJVHcNB-XL.jpg




TESTING THE KIT AT SEBRING:


Onto the testing. I was at Sebring in 90* temps in June for two days, 8 sessions of 30 minutes each. So I brought a temp gun, and was going to run 30 minute sessions with the ducts open and get rotor temps immediately after the session in the hot pits, and do the same with the ducts taped off completely, and compare cool down temps, thinking the cooling kit would help cool the brakes down quickly on the cool down lap. Well, that didn't work too well.....

So for all of Day 1, I ran with the ducts open, and every session, my rotor temps after the session got hotter and hotter, because it was my first time ever in the car, and I was getting faster and faster with it, and was being more and more aggressive. So by Day 2 I was comfortable and consistent, and temps were consistent after the sessions with the ducts open (700 front / 450 rear), but I was unable to get an accurate temp reading after the session with the ducts closed because I was unable to get a full session without any fade! I could feel a little bit of fade and would have to back off a few tenths, so obviously the rotor temps after the session would be a bit lower, but I noticed that when I had the ducts open completely, both days, I could run 10/10ths, balls out, without any fade whatsoever (stock rotors and lines, DTC-60's, titanium shims, RBF600 fluid), but once I blocked off the ducts, I noticed light fade after about lap 3 to where I had to back off it a tad.

The ducts are definitely helping between heavy braking zones; not sure if there would be any change in rotor temps after the entire session and cool down lap with the ducts open or closed, and I don't think there's enough air being forced in to make a difference to drop max temps during heavy braking, but the true benefit seems to be enough cooling from the ducts to help lower the temps between corners on the long straights, to where the pads aren't fading at all, no matter how hard I push them.

I will continue to monitor rotor wear and pad wear and post updates on this thread with how the kit is performing and holding up long term, but after my first weekend (8 sessions, 30 minutes each session) the pads are still in good shape, have about 10/32nds of material measured from the base of the plate to the top of the material on the front, and 12/32nds in the rear, and the rotors have the normal heat checking, with no major cracks or issues.

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good write up thanks for the info.

Please update your post with how much you paid for the kit shipped to your door.

Brake ducting is a godsend. When it's done right it feels like you have installed a completely different braking setup and you can brake on the threshold lap after lap after lap.

Looks good!

Yep, that's exactly what I was able to do, no fade at all with the ducts open. Closed them off and had only about 3 hard laps before I had to back off.

I'll say it, for the price this seems like a crappy kit. The ducts look awful, did they not have a band saw? The backplate rubbing on the rotor is pretty bad too. And then the speed sensor being right in the path of the duct just doesn't make sense. Maybe there was no alternative but I don't like it.

For $200 I could expect this kind of craftsmanship.

^^ wanker. :D

Thanks for posting up the review. I'm most concerned about the backing plate rubbing the rotor but, like you said, it's one of those things that works itself out. ;)

For $400... Yeah, I would buy the ducting and front cones and figure something out myself. I wasn't expecting to see it cost that much but nonetheless I'm glad to hear that it's effective.


Edit: Now that think about it, while it's a bit high, it is a complete kit, ready to go shipped to your door.... So it's hard to argue with that. Plus it's a one time purchase (maybe except for ducts). I spend a LOT more than $400 on "wear items" that I only use for a couple weekends so in relative terms....

To address the issue with rubbing and craftmanship:

We allowed for 1/16th" clearance from the backing plate to the rotor. We took measurements on a FR-S with 102 miles on the odometer. due to the small clearance between the backing plate and rotor, there is a very slight chance it could rub. We TIG weld everything in-house, and backing plates are precision laser cut. All components for the backing plate is made out of T6061 aluminum. Due to the thickness of the backing plate, welding could slightly distort the backing plate.
We have a Jig with a used OEM rotor and entire front spinlde + hub assembly (removed from an FR-S with less then 150miles) that we use to check fitment prior to shipping out to ensure everything fits accordingly.
everything is made in-house with all parts made in the USA to ensure durability.
We include Loc-Tite for hub bolts, we include stainless steel Clampco worm clamps. We include double ply high temp hose....etc.
The kit looks simple, because we took the time and design to make it as simple as possible.
I have never seen a DIY kit that seals the rotor completely like ours. They mostly just blow cool air somewhere near the rotor.

You may think this kit for $400 is expensive - but there is not a whole lot of margin we make off this kit at all. Go and purchase 11 feet of high temp 2-ply hose. That right there is majority of your $200 kit that you're thinking of... maybe you can build one with dryer ducts for $200.... maybe.
Sure we could buy Chinese made parts to cut some cost...
Would I run that on our FR-S? Nope.
We made this kit, because we want to offer drivers who do not have the funds to spend on a large Brake kit setup to be competitive and enjoy the car.

This is what I use on my s2k and what CSG uses on client cars...

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p..._Temp_Ducting2

For customers that want aircraft grade stuff, we use:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/sceet.php

Is there something different about the hose supplied with your kit that makes it so expensive? We're definitely interested in a superior options to our clients.

I was a little rough with the "the kit is crap" part. It's not crap, it just needs polish I guess.

The experience this user had didn't seem to be the as high of quality I expected. I pieced together a similar kit for myself a while ago since I'm cheap and would rather DIY.

2" High temp hose 12 feet $53

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p..._Temp_Ducting2

Inlet, $24 a piece $48

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3624

Backing Plate $25 per side $50

http://pitstopusa.com/i-5066463-alls...ghtweight.html

http://pitstopusa.com/i-5066464-alls...ghtweight.html

Total $151 plus various items such as clamps and zip ties. I don't know what size hose the TF kit uses so I just took a guess, I know the area is tight. You can bump up to 3" hose for about $25 more. The backing plate will need working over to make it fit flush but again, I like DIY.

So you figure $200ish plus a 100% markup and that's on par with most aftermarket parts. It's not crazy expensive at all. It just needs some more polish, which is my only opinion.

Backing plate rubbing the rotor is not an issue; it was "touching" the rotor, and after about 20 minutes of driving, it worked it's way off. I'd rather have a tight seal with a little bit of rubbing in the beginning than the backing plate too small or too far away that there isn't a tight seal. The fact that it's such a tight clearance is what provides good cooling to the rotor veins.

Not an issue, just something I noticed during install.

If you look at all of the other brake duct kits out there; they run between $300 and $400 on average, so I'd say this one is right in there. I know for the C5 vettes its a very similar kit for $439 through LG Motorsports.

Anybody used the APR kit out there?

The universal backing brake cooling plates will not be as effective of a sealed rotor forcing majority of the cool air through the veins, however for the price of the components you could go this route if you have limited funds, and have some time.
3" hose will not fit unless you route the hose under the car.
I have nothing against DIY. It's always interesting to see what others come up with.
We just made a functional kit that you can install in your garage with standard tools.

Just as a reference we made this kit based off of our Time Attack car, which we played with different brake cooling methods. In our Time Attack Evo, we used a modified NASCAR carbon fiber backing plate (Covered half of the rotor - we had to cut to make fit) for our Brembo GTR Big Brake kit, which did ok on the Autobahn South course 2.0mile during our 30min test session. We did not experience any brake fade, however pad wear was not where we wanted it to be, since you have to purchase 8 pads for the front calipers alone.
Once we made a backing plate that sealed off the rotor, the temperature brake temps were reduced and best of all pad and rotor wear was noticeably better.
http://www.tougefactory.com/shop/wp-...03/MG_9879.jpg

From what I have seen, the APR kit is ONLY the ducts for the fog lights and the tubing, not the backing plate for the hub.

THIS. The sealed backing plates makes all the difference.

Great functional product just need to make it look prettier imho

Will this fit on AP sprint bbk?

I'm pretty sure in this photo it shows a part that attaches to the brake side.

Photo is from FT-86 Speed Factory's site.

Yep, you're right. Even though that doesn't give full coverage to the rotor, I just didn't know APR has a full kit. From what I read I thought it was only just the front ducts where the foglights are, including other vendors that list the kit as only the front bumper ducts. $300 something seems very cheap for a full Carbon Fiber kit from APR including the front inlet ducts and spindle ducts...

Quote from their site:

"This unit will bolt-on to the back side of the brake rotor, a high temp hose is connected from this unit to the front bumper brake duct inlet."

http://ft86speedfactory.com/apr-carb...s-frs-637.html

Hm, interesting. I know other vendors and APR themselves list just the ONLY front ducts in the front bumper for that same price, maybe @FT-86 SpeedFactory can verify that they are selling the entire APR kit including hoses and the backing plates for the rotor for $300 something?

Also, based on the pics from APRs facebook page of the kit, the backing plates for the brake rotor just blow air on the back face of the rotor itself, and not to the center of the rotor to push through the veins in the rotor, like the Touge Factory kit does.

https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...98132086_n.jpg

This kit is just for the ducts alone
No piping pt backing plate
http://aprperformance.com/index.php?...=330&Itemid=44

R u getting a set?

Not unless my brake start fading

Keeping your pads cooler will extend their life. The duct's sole purpose is not to just prevent fade. Alternatively, if you need a lower MOT pad, you can run a less expensive, less aggressive pad just as effectively, lowering your long term operating cost.

PMu was great at MRLS w/o fading but like CSG Mike said, it makes brake pads more effective and lowering overall cost....im seriously considering this kit

I emailed FT86speedfactory and they confirmed that you get both the inlets and the outlets in the APR kit that they sell, just add piping.

We'll talk after my first track day in the BRZ... too many unknowns... I don't want to get something unless I know I need it.

If you can't get the brakes to fade or overheat at MRLS, which neither Jeff or I have, then you're ok. MRLS is about as brutal as it gets with brakes. However, that could change if you upgrade grip and power. For mine, yours, and Jeff's current setup this kit will only help with longevity by keeping things cooler. However, I'm impressed with the durability of the PMu CR pads even without. We only lost a few mm of pad thickness at MRLS, compared to >1/2 of the pad's original thickness when I tracked my Evo there. My guess is that we'll never need to use cooling ducts unless power is upgraded significantly on our cars.

I'd get the cooling duct kit for your GTR first, Mike. ;)

Just an update from my 3rd track day with this kit:

It's working great; only losing 1/32" of pad material per track day, can't even measure the rotor thickness drop with my micrometer, so should be good through the rest of the year on these pads (Hawk DTC-60s).

No brake fade at all with Michelin Pilot Super Sports on, normal heat checking but after 3 full days no cracks that can be caught by a finger nail, and there don't appear any more or worse heat check cracks than there were at the end of my first session on the first track day. These stock rotors should last me a while (knock on wood).

How much would you attribute to the brake setup, and how much to the ducts?

I definitely attribute the lack of fade to the ducts, because I compared open vs. closed ducts and noticed a significant difference, as after two laps with them closed off I had fade, but when open I can run full sessions without any fade at all.

Compared to what others have experienced with horrible rotor wear and complete cracking on the first or second track day (Dave_ROR and LDadrenaline), I would say that I am fairing much better than them, with the main difference being I have the brake ducts. However, it would be hard to say that is directly correlated with me having ducting and they don't, as there is a difference in driving style, brake pad material used, etc.

I am not sure what kind of wear people are having with pads, but I'm happy with losing 1/32" a day.

I think my next pads are going to be Cobalts; I've always wanted to try them, and hear they are hard on rotors, so we'll see how long I can get these bad boys to last.



Also, to update on the little issue I had with the location of the speed sensor wire contacting the duct backing plates with the wheels at centerline, I solved the issue with putting some heat tape around the wire in the location it rubbed, and some heat tape on the piece of metal that the wire contacts. No wear/issues with that at all now.

What pads are you using?

I know @Dave-ROR has cracked a rotor, but we haven't, and our rotors have easily seen 100+ deep heat cycles.

I am using DTC-60s, and I am using the brakes HARD.

You guys want to see pictures of my DTC-60's? This is what 3 different sets did to me...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8.../WP_000143.jpg
No more Hawk pads for this guy.


I have now sold my soul to Raybestos for brake pads. The ST series got to "11".

I use ST43's and 42's depending on track. (42's for tracks that are easier on brakes and 43's for when I'm racing in Hell)

but the DTC is so (relatively speaking) inexpensive!

wow, that's horrific. any explanation from Hawk on that issue?