I have camber bolts and WL camber plates. On a stock susp/wheels/tires, what camber/toe would you recommend for street and track?

I could see an upgrade in break pads (SS lines installed), do you think a Koyo rad is money down the drain for track use, DD car? Would you prefer a different mod in about the same price range as the Koyo rad, exclude hp gains? Fluids are cheap so my objective is to keep hp the same but aid in cooling, breaking, and turning.

Thx!

We use Motul Gear 300 in the transmission, and Motul Gear 300LS in the differential. The Gear300LS has a friction modifier, and slightly changes the characteristic of the torsen, and is also usable in some clutch type diffs. However, if you want to safe a few bucks (~7), you can also use Gear300 in the diff.

These fluids are multiweight, but are slightly thicker, so please keep in mind the gears will feel notchy when it's cold, and you'll hear the LSD "locking up" when it's cool outside and the car is not warmed up (under 50F, and making a U-turn when the car is completely cold). The tradeoff is the fluid's ability to handle more heat and abuse without breaking down.

That being said, any high quality fluid will work, and you can't go wrong as long as you have something good. I'd recommend a full synthetic, and use the Motul stuff personally in my S2k.

No we do not. The oil does get hot, but the ECU will pull timing to preserve the engine. We do, in the long run, plan on getting an oil cooler setup, and will likely have something custom made. If demand is there, CSG may offer a kit.

We run Motul 300V oil, and seeing 270F has zero effect on the oil itself in terms of breaking down or losing ability to lubricate.

How much experience do you have with a loose car? My "typical" advice for anyone who isn't comfortable with a floaty/drifty/"always wants to rotate" car is to have a slight amount of toe-in both front and rear. While this isn't 100% ideal for performance, you're sacrificing maybe 1% performance for a HUGE increase in stability, both highway and on track. 1/16" total toe-in front, and 1/16" to 1/8" total toe-in rear (depending on preference, try less first). That being said, I prefer the CSG BRZ to be at 0 toe front and rear.

Alignment is frequently used as a band-aid fix for handling/suspension/balance problems that are caused by other parts. Sways and tire pressures are also common bandaids.

Brakes and radiator is ALWAYS a great choice. The car runs hot from the factory, and keeping temps down will help EVERYTHING under the engine bay, not just the engine, last longer. SS lines are strictly a preference thing, but brake lines, IMO, are a wear and tear item that should be replaced regularly. You don't want to have a brake line fail on you, ever. I change brake lines on my S2k roughly every 20 track days, but on the BRZ, you can likely go longer, as the brakes don't get as hot.

CSG is working on a cooling solution that will be a direct drop-in replacement for the OEM radiator that is more efficient. As with all the products we offer, it will not be the cheapest on the market, but it certainly will be one of the best products you can buy.

We use Speigler brake lines on the CSG BRZ. I have used Stoptech and Endless lines on my S2k. The Endless and Speigler lines are similar in construction quality and type, and are superior to the Stoptechs IMO.

Can't afford AP brakes. How about "cheap" blanks such as [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Centric-Parts-120-47021-Premium-E-Coating/dp/B000IY4A0Y"]this[/ame]. Paired with some better pads?

Details......

Do springs from company to company vary? i.e eibach v tein v swift v hr?

That's precisely what I do on my s2k. The cost does add up though... I've spent more on pads and brakes than I would have spent on a BBK + consumables.

It's also what we recommend to our clients who don't have 2k to spend up front on a BBK; blanks and upgraded rotors do the job just fine.

When it's ready :)

Here's teaser ;)

https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...83036178_n.jpg
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...&type=1&ref=nf

I am also interested. Is there a rough ETA yet?

If I were to illustrate a slip angle on a graph, with the peak grip coming at 6 degrees of slip and I have 2 drivers that turn identical lap times but one runs on the front side of the curve (5-6 degrees of slip angle) while the other operates on the backside of the curve (6-7 degrees of slip), who is the better driver and why?

And yes, there is a right answer.


Hint and cheat: It's in the Ross Bentley "Speed Secret" books.

Yes. The metallurgy is different, although difficult to quantify in words. Consistency is key though.

Psh, you must be kidding.

The lesser angle is the winner in a "general" sense, because he will grease out the tires slower.

That's half of it and a damn important half! :thumbup:

The other half is that any driver operating on the wrong side of the slip angle, even by a little, puts him too close to the "edge" leaving nothing left in the tire. If he needs to make a sudden change when he's committed to a corner, he cannot without great difficulty and penalty. There will be a quicker drop off of traction and this will result in A) any mistake will be amplified resulting in greater time lost and/or B) a mistake will lead to an "off" or incident. As a driver, I am extra cautious when racing next to drivers who drive like this and it's easy to spot them (they're usually in the dirt).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8.../slipangle.png



OK Mike, I'll stop terrorizing your thread now. :scared0016:

background
My HPDE experience consists of just 1-2 events per year for the last several years. I would run my S2000 100% stock, except for Direzza SS Z1s and Carbotech XP10/XP8 pads. All fluids 100% stock, nothing special. I would usually run in one of the faster groups and never had any overheating issues.

question
I'm taking the BRZ to the track for the first time later this summer, to VIR (first time there) for a 3 day event. I had just been planning to slap on some Carbotech pads (still using the OEM tires) and hit the track. Is there anything else I should do before hand? I ask b/c I never had any issues doing it this way with the S2000 (I realize they're similar cars but obviously not the same). Typically I would bleed the brakes and change the oil but both are quiet fresh at the moment already.

Thanks Mike

You got away on OEM brake fluid on the S2k?!?

I'd recommend changing to RBF600 brake fluid, and your preferred engine oil, not because the fluids in your BRZ are not fresh, but because they're not really suited to hard track duty.

Remember that this car has significantly softer springs than the S2k (stock vs stock), and that you need to ease the car into the turns, rather than being able to manhandle it like the s2k.

Should we wait for an ECU update before taking the car to the track? Wouldn't want another siezed motor. :)

I saw ANOTHER BRZ develop the misfire just this weekend... so I would recommend it...

Mine throws a PO351 code every session at the track now. Hoping this new tune from Moto-East will help that.

The engine has full synthetic in it now (whatever the dealership put in it, oil changed 2,000 miles ago). I was going to start changing it myself for the next interval (and so forth), and I've always used Mobil 1. I assume that's fine for track duty.

I will take your advice and switch to RBF600 fluid though.

Thanks for the info. I am familiar with RWD - have tracked a Z33 TT (mid 90s) and Z33 (mid 00s) but not as frequent as a bike (mid 00s) but the FRS is anew experience with its weight and ease to drive. Definitely the 'loose-est' RWD to slide around - the bike took more technique to 'break' its backend and slide thru smooth sweepers. That said, FRS stock hp is my objective and slowly increase it's performance over hp over time. The shop willing to provide tuning is not an expert in this platform but are experts in German performance. In the meantime, WL bushings are providing a lovely experience in lateral movement and predictable powering thru turn-ins and turn-outs. The FRS frequents redline territory as a canyon carver so more frequent PMs are a given. Looking to upgrade the fluid changes, rad coolant, etc.

By chance, when is your cooling solution coming to market and how much?

It sounds like you have a pretty good foundation to work with, especially with your Z32 and Z33 experience. Keep in mind that neither of those cars had a "real" LSD, so this car will be more prone to sliding (and holding them), but that's a good thing; it also has more grip.

Cooling solutions will be announced when it's ready. It won't be cheap, but it'll be worth every penny.

Do brakes squeal because racecar?

Because improper bedding :thumbsup:

Or over heated.

Regarding race cars or "track pads";
Sometimes race pads just squeal because they don't "need" to be quiet so a manufacturer doesn't even focus on that. Squeaking is actually the nature of brakes because the friction creates a type of vibration and sound (squeaking) by definition is vibration, albeit a very very fast vibration.

Typically improper bedding yields an uneven transfer layer that will make your car feel like it's trying to shake itself to pieces. I've spent several thousand dollars chasing that devil. Now I won't spend a dime on any pad that is "sensitive" to bedding. (cough, carbotech, cough)

There was a joke back in the day (I think it came from a very old commercial) where a driver of a German sports car complained over and over to the German manufacturer of the brakes about their squeaking, to the point where he was put in touch with the senior rep for the company. The senior rep told the customer, in his heavy German accent: "We make zee brakes to schtopp good, not schound good." :click: End of conversation.



EDIT: Ok, I can't fart in the elevator without adding some value. Thus, I have a question in which I don't know an answer to. Mike: What parts in the suspension have the greatest bind and would have the greatest improvement from using spherical replacements? Also, for a dedicated track junkie, are their any parts that should be reinforced or replaced with something stronger because of fear of breaking prematurely?

Uh... I'm gonna defer to Robi for that one.

We don't know what'll break prematurely since the car hasn't been around enough... except the engine. /bitter

Get a tune and fix that transient timing table.

this our solution
oil cooler in left side tank in the HUGE radiator
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...ps49a2fee8.jpg
front View
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...psbf2f76eb.jpg
Uses STOCK fans
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...ps00190de3.jpg
All testing done all temps in "F" not "C"

Latest track data 100 degree ambiant 135 degree track surface temps.

My car Innovate/Sprintex Supercharged NO Intercooler 260 whp on dynojet

222 whp on dynodynamics

7psi 75mm pulley E-85 fuel

Water 198 peak oil 219 peak twenty minute run session with the A/C ON to simulate a FMIC (and it was hot out there lol)

I was driving my car hard enough to set a new lap record on 100 treadwear tires. Track average speed was 98.5 MPH

Customer car same SC Kit with dodgy water/meth injection on 91 octane california JUNK fuel (knocky environmental compromise fuel)

Water 210 peak oil 229 peak

so the data are consistant 20 degree delta between fluids and LOTS of overhead to go higher with the temps and still be safe.

Selling for 985 usd +shipping

Lots-O-room over the top and stays completely within the sheet metal center so IC piping can go out and in either over the top or behind the lights.

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...ps5e4fdeb4.jpg

any IC mounted to the A/C points or front beam

these fit into a stock car NO modifications nessisary.
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...ps03ee8f75.jpg
We are using the stock mounts and the stock hoses. Install is the same as replacing a stock radiator. The only intake that doesnt seem to work is the AIR RAID intake everybody else looks ok with some requiring alternate hose running but all seems to fit.

Works with Full blown kit/ Vortech SC/ AVO/ Innovate SC...

Stock bumper beam stays stock and in stock location.
NO cutting plastic to mount
Cold air over the top as needed
STOCK mounting points used
OVER TRIPLE THE COOLING CAPACITY and an extra Qt of engine oil.
takes 2 hours to install
total system cost Radiator oilcooler takeoff plates hoses, an fittings, fans
EVERYTHING INCLUDED

Are the seized motors as prevalent as the blown ringland failures with GRs?

Well, I've never had a ringland failure on a GR... (but I also never really drove GRs...)

It's a matter of when not if with the GRs. :)

Thats why I avoid them :bellyroll:

What is the maximum number of women I can fit in the car while safely hanging my steering wheel out the window at an HPDE?

Depends on the size of the women you like... :bellyroll:

I will have to get back to you with weight information. ;)

Oh I said nothing about weight.... :eyebulge::lol:

This is what I am looking to do:

http://www.bajiroo.com/wp-content/up...s-world-17.jpg

Can't help you if they don't actually fit IN the car....

Do hub centric wheel spacers negatively effect performance on the track?

Hubcentric RINGS:

No, but I don't use them, because they might get stuck on the hub, which means you're going to potentially have issues putting on another set of wheels later. Additionally, plastic ones may deform and/or melt onto the hub or rim.

They're nice for "centering" the wheel, and taking the stress off of the lug nuts when you're initially tightening them, but ultimately, the lug nuts are what hold the wheel on, as well as force the wheel to center.

If you want to get super technical, they are added unsprung rotational mass.

Hubcentric SPACERS:

I wasn't aware that they made these, but spacers are fine as long as either you're using the proper extended studs, or are properly torquing them if the spacers give you an alternate set of studs.

Personally, I'd recommend you get extended studs (ARP) and use cheap ebay spacers, if you need spacers at all. There are times where I spend money, and there are times where I don't, and spacers are just giant shims in this case. The studs you should never skimp on.

Will removing the weatherstrip at the top of the engine bay under the hood help with ventilating and removing heat?

Are there downsides to removing this?

cowl induction....

It does precisely what you don't want. Like @robispec said... think muscle cars with that hood cowl. You're sucking in air.

When can we expect the CSG BRZ to be on the track again?