Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB
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Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/index.php)
-   Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=39)
-   -   Got a track related question? I'll try to answer. (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38926)

NoHaveMSG 09-20-2021 03:10 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by nextcar (Post 3467298)
I do about 6 HPDE's a year, just for fun, and run stock power levels.

I have TRD lowering springs and Pedders offset tophats so I am just about -2 camber all the way around.

I currently run Pilot 4s tires (225/45/17), however I find them a little slippery as my times have improved...

I am looking for recommendations on a compromise tire for dual use... is there something better than the 4s?

Price does not matter much, however I don't want to be buying new tires every year if I am only street driving under 5000 miles/year...

Is it practical/reasonable to street a 200 treadwear tire in a warm, dry climate (e.g. San Diego)?
I'd just go SX2's. If you want something a bit faster RS4's.

TommyW 09-20-2021 05:32 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by nextcar (Post 3467298)
I do about 6 HPDE's a year, just for fun, and run stock power levels.

I have TRD lowering springs and Pedders offset tophats so I am just about -2 camber all the way around.

I currently run Pilot 4s tires (225/45/17), however I find them a little slippery as my times have improved...

I am looking for recommendations on a compromise tire for dual use... is there something better than the 4s?

Price does not matter much, however I don't want to be buying new tires every year if I am only street driving under 5000 miles/year...

Is it practical/reasonable to street a 200 treadwear tire in a warm, dry climate (e.g. San Diego)?
I also do about 6-8 days and 3-5K street miles a year. The SX2 is a good choice or go with the Nitto NT01 if you want even better grip. You'd replace about once a year though. I'm on my 2nd set and don't have any reason to change to something else. Since you aren't a beginner they will be ok. They can take a lot of heat cycles and aren't that fussy about pressure. They have a LOT of grip. Since you're on 225's it won't be too much tire for stock power

CSG Mike 09-20-2021 11:25 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by nextcar (Post 3467298)
I do about 6 HPDE's a year, just for fun, and run stock power levels.

I have TRD lowering springs and Pedders offset tophats so I am just about -2 camber all the way around.

I currently run Pilot 4s tires (225/45/17), however I find them a little slippery as my times have improved...

I am looking for recommendations on a compromise tire for dual use... is there something better than the 4s?

Price does not matter much, however I don't want to be buying new tires every year if I am only street driving under 5000 miles/year...

Is it practical/reasonable to street a 200 treadwear tire in a warm, dry climate (e.g. San Diego)?
The two are generally mutually exclusive.

You'll want new tires regularly since tires will age out as well.

SX2, CUP2, RS4 are viable choices.

jflogerzi 10-01-2021 12:39 AM
2013 track owners. I am trying to figure out if I can replace one side with the newer 2015 harness and newer 2015 coils and leave the 2013 on the driver side... I keep popping the P0351 code

Sent from my Pixel 5a using Tapatalk

CSG Mike 10-01-2021 08:26 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by jflogerzi (Post 3470174)
2013 track owners. I am trying to figure out if I can replace one side with the newer 2015 harness and newer 2015 coils and leave the 2013 on the driver side... I keep popping the P0351 code

Sent from my Pixel 5a using Tapatalk
You'll want to do ALL of them.

You can also get newer coil packs and an adapter harness.

Or, just upgrade coil packs to IP.

The latter is the easiest solution.

jflogerzi 10-01-2021 09:33 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by CSG Mike (Post 3470329)
You'll want to do ALL of them.

You can also get newer coil packs and an adapter harness.

Or, just upgrade coil packs to IP.

The latter is the easiest solution.
Some had said its the harness that's also part of the issue. Where are these adapters you speak of? Any particular you recommend?

CSG Mike 10-01-2021 09:41 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by jflogerzi (Post 3470339)
Some had said its the harness that's also part of the issue. Where are these adapters you speak of? Any particular you recommend?
https://www.icefabrication.com/produ...grade-to-2015/

I just know they exist. I don't have any opinion for or against them.

downshiftxlr8 10-04-2021 01:29 PM
Ahoy friends, hoping for some decent tire recommendations after heat cycling my RS4s this weekend at BRP. Nothing against the tires, they lasted me a few months with around 6 track days and daily driving, just looking for something that has a little more grip.


Currently using the stock wheels and 225/45/17, getting a set of RPF1s 17x8's that I can swap out at the track now. What would you do ? Tried to find some SX2's but all the places I know were out of the size I wanted :(

Kelse92 10-04-2021 02:04 PM
Falken rt660 if you want something better than the RS4 and at a cheaper cost. The expense will be faster wear, but I'm thinking you have more life in the RS4's... they should start chunking on the shoulders well before they are heat cycled out.

I wouldn't necessarily daily/track drive the 660's though, you can, but again the expense of higher wear at little benefit if not on the track. The square set of 17x8's is definitely the way to go and keep the stocks for street driving and do the wider wheels for track. I agree on 8's because all 4 fit with back seats folded down and 9's do not (one must go in the trunk)

downshiftxlr8 10-04-2021 05:51 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelse92 (Post 3470829)
Falken rt660 if you want something better than the RS4 and at a cheaper cost. The expense will be faster wear, but I'm thinking you have more life in the RS4's... they should start chunking on the shoulders well before they are heat cycled out.

I wouldn't necessarily daily/track drive the 660's though, you can, but again the expense of higher wear at little benefit if not on the track. The square set of 17x8's is definitely the way to go and keep the stocks for street driving and do the wider wheels for track. I agree on 8's because all 4 fit with back seats folded down and 9's do not (one must go in the trunk)

Oh the chunking started for sure which is why I'm looking into something different before the end of the month (another track day), a friend did suggest I give the RT660s a try, so I guess I'll bite on them. Considering I drove on the RS4s daily these may hold me over the same amount of time if I'm only tracking them the rest of the year.

CSG Mike 10-04-2021 05:59 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by downshiftxlr8 (Post 3470897)
Oh the chunking started for sure which is why I'm looking into something different before the end of the month (another track day), a friend did suggest I give the RT660s a try, so I guess I'll bite on them. Considering I drove on the RS4s daily these may hold me over the same amount of time if I'm only tracking them the rest of the year.
This indicates either a setup error or driver error.

I suggest you figure out why your tires chunked before going with stickier/faster tires.

Kelse92 10-04-2021 07:11 PM
I agree only 6 track days is probably setup related too.

downshiftxlr8 10-04-2021 07:42 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by CSG Mike (Post 3470902)
This indicates either a setup error or driver error.

I suggest you figure out why your tires chunked before going with stickier/faster tires.

Car is mostly stock , so this is probably a me thing.



I haven't changed the suspension at all, how much camber do these cars like to run front and rear ?



Tire pressure hot was 33-34 for many of the sessions.

CSG Mike 10-04-2021 07:48 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by downshiftxlr8 (Post 3470938)
Car is mostly stock , so this is probably a me thing.



I haven't changed the suspension at all, how much camber do these cars like to run front and rear ?



Tire pressure hot was 33-34 for many of the sessions.
Do you have a complete modification list and alignment spec?

downshiftxlr8 10-04-2021 08:02 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by CSG Mike (Post 3470941)
Do you have a complete modification list and alignment spec?

Intake
Brake Lines
Hawk HP+ (F/R)
Exhaust (Headers, front pipe, cat back)
and a Tune for 91

Nothing done to the suspension yet, just started tracking this car this year after being away for some years so wanted to start slow and learn more about the car before going to far off the deep end like I did with my last car.

CSG Mike 10-04-2021 08:08 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by downshiftxlr8 (Post 3470948)
Intake
Brake Lines
Hawk HP+ (F/R)
Exhaust (Headers, front pie, cat back)
and a Tune for 91

Nothing done to the suspension yet, just started tracking this car this year after being away for some years so wanted to start slow and learn more about the car before going to far off the deep end like I did with my last car.
Seems you need camber.

Bolts for a cheap solution, plates for a proper solution.

strat61caster 10-04-2021 08:57 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by downshiftxlr8 (Post 3470938)
I haven't changed the suspension at all, how much camber do these cars like to run front and rear ?
.
F -3 to -5
R -2 to -3

Currently I'm on -4F -2.5R, but I'm a filthy autocrosser, I still wear the outside edges with stiffer springs and front roll bar. Rears wear more evenly then fronts because MacPherson struts vs multi link.

downshiftxlr8 10-04-2021 10:34 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by CSG Mike (Post 3470949)
Seems you need camber.

Bolts for a cheap solution, plates for a proper solution.

Awesome , thanks for the advice!

CSG Mike 10-04-2021 11:50 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by downshiftxlr8 (Post 3470982)
Awesome , thanks for the advice!
Also, check out 86cup.

86cup.us

downshiftxlr8 10-04-2021 11:56 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by CSG Mike (Post 3470992)
Also, check out 86cup.

86cup.us

I was out at the last event , met a lot of fun folks, going to be at the one at the end of this month ?

J95 10-05-2021 11:10 AM
Hey Mike :)

I plan to install an oil cooler. Do you think it is worth it to get one that is not attached in the front bumper? (to avoid potential failure/rips due to possible off tracks)

I have this in mind:
https://avoturbo.com/brz-frs-86-fa20...il-cooler-kit/
Compared to an used Mishimoto that I can get much cheaper.

:thanks:

CSG Mike 10-05-2021 01:10 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by J95 (Post 3471091)
Hey Mike :)

I plan to install an oil cooler. Do you think it is worth it to get one that is not attached in the front bumper? (to avoid potential failure/rips due to possible off tracks)

I have this in mind:
https://avoturbo.com/brz-frs-86-fa20...il-cooler-kit/
Compared to an used Mishimoto that I can get much cheaper.

:thanks:
None of the oil coolers I'm aware of attach to the front bumper.

I have a used Perrin (with setrab core, no the chinese cores) for sale.

I would recommend a Jackson Racing or GReddy oil cooler. Both are in stock at CSG.

J95 10-05-2021 05:12 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by CSG Mike (Post 3471124)
None of the oil coolers I'm aware of attach to the front bumper.

I have a used Perrin (with setrab core, no the chinese cores) for sale.

I would recommend a Jackson Racing or GReddy oil cooler. Both are in stock at CSG.
Ok thanks! Im from Europe, but thanks for the offer

On the other hand, could you please tell me what would be some appropriate next steps for my set up? Aparte from the oil cooler.

The usage is roadtrips on weekends and occasional track days (6-8 per year). Not daily but frequent trips. Current set up:

Code:
Rays gram lights 57CR 17x9
Tires Yoko v105, but planning to get some semi slicks 245 40 17 soon
K&N replacement filter
Steel brake lines HEL + RBF 600
Brake pads PFC Z rated
Eibach pro kit lower springs
Camber bolts
JDL Headers 4-2-1
OFT stage 2+

Alignment:
Front Toe -1° -1°
Back Toe 0° 0°

Front camber -1.2° -1.5°
Back camber (stock) -1.8° -1.6°

CSG Mike 10-05-2021 05:13 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by J95 (Post 3471200)
Ok thanks! Im from Europe, but thanks for the offer

On the other hand, could you please tell me what would be some appropriate next steps for my set up? Aparte from the oil cooler.

The usage is roadtrips on weekends and occasional track days (6-8 per year). Not daily but frequent trips. Current set up:

Code:
Rays gram lights 57CR 17x9
Tires Yoko v105, but planning to get some semi slicks 245 40 17 soon
K&N replacement filter
Steel brake lines HEL + RBF 600
Brake pads PFC Z rated
Eibach pro kit lower springs
Camber bolts
JDL Headers 4-2-1
OFT stage 2+

Alignment:
Front Toe -1° -1°
Back Toe 0° 0°

Front camber -1.2° -1.5°
Back camber (stock) -1.8° -1.6°
Get a track alignment, a proper tune, and upgrade the brake pads/fluid.

J95 10-05-2021 07:05 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by CSG Mike (Post 3471201)
Get a track alignment, a proper tune, and upgrade the brake pads/fluid.
What do you mean by proper tune? I have no reliable tuners in my area, plus I already purchased the OFT (not cheap in Europe :D). Is something better than stage 2+ that I can do with the OFT?


And what would be your suggestion for the alignment? I would not want to compromise too much the tire wear when driving milles in the roadtrips

:thanks:

CSG Mike 10-05-2021 07:41 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by J95 (Post 3471221)
What do you mean by proper tune? I have no reliable tuners in my area, plus I already purchased the OFT (not cheap in Europe :D). Is something better than stage 2+ that I can do with the OFT?


And what would be your suggestion for the alignment? I would not want to compromise too much the tire wear when driving milles in the roadtrips

:thanks:
Align via what the pyrometer says. 949 has an excellent guide here.

http://949racing.com/using-a-tire-py...49-Racing.aspx

Get a proper Ecutek tune. You do not need the tuner to be local to get tuned. The vast majority of 86 tuning is done remotely.

J95 10-06-2021 08:25 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by CSG Mike (Post 3471230)
Align via what the pyrometer says. 949 has an excellent guide here.

http://949racing.com/using-a-tire-py...49-Racing.aspx

Get a proper Ecutek tune. You do not need the tuner to be local to get tuned. The vast majority of 86 tuning is done remotely.
Ok thanks! But after investing in OFT I would like to stick to it (to Europe the price increases a lot, same for ecutek). Any customized ROM by wayne or similar should be also fine?


I have one last question though. I am worried about lubrication problems when using semi slick 245 and long right hand turns. I heard some people broke the engine because of the pump not reaching enough oil. How necessary is a Sump Baffle Plate then?

CSG Mike 10-06-2021 01:58 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by J95 (Post 3471334)
Ok thanks! But after investing in OFT I would like to stick to it (to Europe the price increases a lot, same for ecutek). Any customized ROM by wayne or similar should be also fine?


I have one last question though. I am worried about lubrication problems when using semi slick 245 and long right hand turns. I heard some people broke the engine because of the pump not reaching enough oil. How necessary is a Sump Baffle Plate then?
"cheap insurance". I've seen slick equipped cars on banked tracks run without issue.

I Have no opinion on Wayne's ROMs, as I've never seen a car with one running in person.

timurrrr 10-06-2021 02:08 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by downshiftxlr8 (Post 3470938)
I haven't changed the suspension at all, how much camber do these cars like to run front [...]
I think practically you'll need to get as much camber as you can.
With camber bolts you'll only get -2º or so, which will not be enough.
With some questionable trickery (two camber bolts) you can get more, but still not enough.

I have -3.2º by using coilovers with camber plates that are maxed out.
With this much camber the stock front end links were hitting the chassis when entering driveways.
And yet the outside shoulders of my front tires still show more wear than rears (-2.5º).


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