HANS or ?
 

Looking at a HANS device for track days, HPDEs, lapping days, etc. A suggestion was made to investigate NecksGen. It looks like a simple but effective option to a HANS.

Anyone use one? Pros/Cons? How does it compare to HANS? Other viable options?

Thanks

Look into a R3 as well ;)

I'd get a HANS or a R3.

Any personal experience with nt05s? If so how do you like them compared to something like the rs3

Their lateral grip is not quite as good as the other tires in the category, but they handle overheating very well.

Also note that they have less tread depth new.

NT05 looks fast as hell, but isn't. I was talked out of them by familiar faces here in these forums myself!

I also found this tire test (on a very interesting car!):
http://www.hotrod.com/feature_storie...ken_nitto.html

Dunlop ZII at one end of the spectrum, NT05 were slowest by a significant margin (~1.5 sec slower than RE11 or PSS).

Question:

For a budget spring-based suspension upgrade on the BRZ...

Are the Swift BRZ specific springs better vs. RCE Yellow?

I'm looking to stay planted and achieve better handling overall - particularly having the ability to stay "settled" even on lumpy twisty mountain roads. My BRZ seems more unsettled in the mountains than my FR-S ever was (stock vs stock). DD ride comfort isn't my priority to be honest.

You need better damping, not better springs, to achieve that.

RCE is a private label Eibach spring, AFAIK.

Hey mike, reassure me and tell me that my stock dampers feel like crap now because of the H&R super sports and that switching to the Bilstein B16's will make me feel happy once more :)


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What's the best option to low the car a little less 1 inch and get some camber?

Trying to get some springs for this year and upgrade to coils next year.

Just got a set of 17x9 +35 RPF1s.

Thanks!

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Well this is exactly what I want to do. I figured damping was key but I want the car to still behave like a BRZ in some respects?

That'll do the trick ;)

Quality coilovers. Don't get crap.

Well.. yeah. I know you told me about Tein SRC which is like +$3k coilover. I'm sure it's awesome. I mean it better be good when it cost +$3k.

If I was still a single, I would basically swing whatever car part that I want. Unfortunately, I have a lifelong boss at home now. Have other priorities that come before modding.

Just wanted to see if you guys have any advice on springs for people who just want springs.

I'm certainly not looking to "slam" anything. Just want something that works like stock and lower the car like 0.8-1".

Swift / RSR / RCE Yellow. Heard these are the best quality ones out there.

Any recommendation on this?

the thing is, people think in relative positions.. 0.8-1 inches doesn't sound like a lot.... when you compare it to a hockey stick or a park bench

but for cars, 0.8-1" is like 25-35% of your available damper travel. So your "innocent little" upgrade is quite a shock to your dampers.


if you want your cake and eat it too, it costs money.

if you can't afford, don't play the game. The car looks awesome and performs awesome in its stock form. Take a step back, set your priorities, start saving, and in a year or two you can upgrade.

i'm in the same boat, no spare income for go fast parts, two years have gone by and i am still on OEM tires, that's two seasons of Autocross that i'm hanging around mid pack on the primacies. This year i've set aside cash for tires and brakes and gonna have a better run at the championships.

so if you're broke, excercise patience and save a bit at a time. You're not the only broke chap on the block and it's okay if you don't have everything right away.

Trust me it's not about having larger disposable income. haha

"Saving" more won't help in some situation.

Not sure if you are married or not. But really, let's just not get into that. I love this topic and certainly don't want to go offtopic over several posts. :thumbsup:

would installing the berk axelback delete adversely effect handling on track ?? considering stock muffler acts as a diffuser of sorts.... read very mixed findings whats your take ?

Are the RS3s still the go-to track tire? ETA on the RS3 revision 2?

Theoretically yea it has the potential to do so. Will it make a difference? I doubt it

End of April

maybe I should've asked here :)

"@CSG Mike were you able to use a brake duct kit such as a TF kit or APR kit with the JR unit? Some user mentioned that he wasn't able to fit his APR kit because of the intercooler piping (KW unit) I wonder if that is the case for the JR also

Thanks in advance"

I haven't run into that combo yet, so I'm unable to say...

I do know that it's possible to do it; I just can't confirm fitment.

Thanks for the reply.

Another question regarding the JR and track use, have you ever had heat soak issues because of the intake sitting in the bay? Did you take logs? I remember in one of your posts you mentioned that the car needs a radiator and/or engine oil cooler? Have you upgraded your radiator to a bigger one?

Thanks again

No heat soak that you wouldn't expect. While the filter sits in the engine bay, it's fed air through the same location as the stock intake...

In other words, it's not a "hot air intake".

Recommended alignment specs for Autocrossing? ZII's 245's 40 17 FA510 coilovers with 8k/9k springs.

Thanks, good to know :)

@CSG Mike
I'm wishing to give Carbotech pads a go. Which would be the next step up from DS2500? XP8 or XP10?

I'm going to be doing my first 86Cup pretty soon so I was wondering if -1.2 degrees of camber in the front was enough to keep the outside shoulder of the stock tires from wearing out too much. I'm thinking of getting replacing the upper strut bold with with Toyota/Scion part #SU003-02818 which I believe is the same as the bottom strut bolt.

Also do you know what the max negative camber I can put in the rear with a stock suspension is and what camber would you recommend for the rear? I'm just looking to save the tires from unnecessary wear at the track, hopefully they will last 2 sessions.

It'll prevent chunking, but you'll still probably have accelerated wear if you have any significant experience with performance driving.

I'm not sure on the OEM Part number.

With stock suspension, you have zero adjustability. You'll need rear lower control arms. We have plenty of options available.

You should be getting at LEAST 5 days (25 sessions) out of a set of tires, unless you're on slicks.


XP8, but I'd recommend you go straight to the XP10 if you find the DS2500 lacking. PM me when you want to order ;)

Do you have camber plates or camber/caster plates? What's your available adjustment range?

Do you have rear LCAs?

Transmission fluid, its been discussed in other threads, but mostly people having issues with stiff shifting. Is it worth swapping the fluid out if im only at 7,000 miles? my transmission feels great, i just wana make sure im not accelerating any wear by running stock fluid on the track once every month or so.

We swapped ours with the first oil change in both of our BRZs with Motul Gear 300.

It's a little clunky when it's cold outside, but it's far better when the transmission is being pushed hard.

Consider it cheap insurance.

Yes and LCA's should be here this week, I do not know the range of adjustment yet

sounds good :thanks:

Read every single post in this thread :)
 

Awesome thread @CSG Mike! Many thanks!

First HPDE experience coming up this weekend for two days at Wild Horse Pass East (Firebird Raceway). We (wife and I) had intended to enter the car 100% stock, and see what we needed to upgrade as we got better and found weak spots.

Problem is, we bent a stock rim a while back, and instead of replacing a stock wheel for $$, we got a set of used PF01 17x8 +45 and Pilot Super Sports 225/45 for $$$ last week.

My question is, should I try to conserve the stock pads/fluid since we're on better rubber, and not push it too hard? 7300 miles on odo and just had the first service done by the dealer.

Or should I put the stock wheels/tires back on? The bend isn't too bad (more cosmetic than anything), and I'm not concerned with vibration or rolling it off the rim.

We drove it for 6,500 miles without issue before we even knew it was bent, and we're spirited canyon carvers (the reason we're going to the track - 5 speeding tickets between us since we got the car in December '13 :slap: and we're not even in our 20's or 30's anymore).

I'd recommend you put on pads and flush to a better brake fluid regardless of tire. Even stock tires will easily fade the pads if you have a half-decent instructor who is showing you around the track.

Thanks Mike!

We'll definitely move to better pads and fluid after this weekend. I'm not sure I'll have time/pads before Saturday morning.

I'll read back through the thread to find what pad you and others have already recommended, but how about fluid? We run Motul RBF 600 in our sport bikes.


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Do you think I should get a tune before my first track day? I have a first shipment car, 22500 street miles no problems but the DI issue is in the back of my mind.

Sometimes I feel like I'm punching my car in the face when I trying to get first on cold nights.

what is the optimal operating temperature? i noticed oem is a 190 tstat, personally im use to 180 deg

Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.
 

@CSG Mike
Which rear wing(size also), diffuser and front aero do you recommend for downforce improvement for track days? Thank you!!


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@CSG Mike
I've heard other track day veterans recommend installing an oil catch can, even for a stock NA BRZ. Your thoughts on how necessary it is? (I would avoid adding extra weight/plumbing/complexity to the engine bay if possible)

thats the first i've heard of this. I can definitely see an oil COOLER being a nice mod for the track though.