I will have to get back to you with weight information. ;)

Oh I said nothing about weight.... :eyebulge::lol:

This is what I am looking to do:

http://www.bajiroo.com/wp-content/up...s-world-17.jpg

Can't help you if they don't actually fit IN the car....

Do hub centric wheel spacers negatively effect performance on the track?

Hubcentric RINGS:

No, but I don't use them, because they might get stuck on the hub, which means you're going to potentially have issues putting on another set of wheels later. Additionally, plastic ones may deform and/or melt onto the hub or rim.

They're nice for "centering" the wheel, and taking the stress off of the lug nuts when you're initially tightening them, but ultimately, the lug nuts are what hold the wheel on, as well as force the wheel to center.

If you want to get super technical, they are added unsprung rotational mass.

Hubcentric SPACERS:

I wasn't aware that they made these, but spacers are fine as long as either you're using the proper extended studs, or are properly torquing them if the spacers give you an alternate set of studs.

Personally, I'd recommend you get extended studs (ARP) and use cheap ebay spacers, if you need spacers at all. There are times where I spend money, and there are times where I don't, and spacers are just giant shims in this case. The studs you should never skimp on.

Will removing the weatherstrip at the top of the engine bay under the hood help with ventilating and removing heat?

Are there downsides to removing this?

cowl induction....

It does precisely what you don't want. Like @robispec said... think muscle cars with that hood cowl. You're sucking in air.

When can we expect the CSG BRZ to be on the track again?

I wish I knew...

1. what's your tire temperature difference (outside/inside of front/rear) on track and on street? is 10F difference outside to inside on street driving to much?

2. what's your tire temperature difference front to rear? I have rear temp higher than front, ~5F, normal? how can i make them even?

thanks!

How much drop would you recommend on a set of coilovers (Ohlins Road and Track to be specific) that will see around 10 track days a year and will be daily driven the rest of the time? I'm not really concerned with how it looks, lap times and not scraping on every imperfection on the road are more important to me.

I haven't specifically set up ride height on that particular coilover. However, as with every other coilover, it's highly dependent on how well you can compensate for having a roll center that's a bit lowered (increased response time to input is a simple way to explain the effect).

Don't focus on the drop as much as getting the dampers dialed to your taste.

To me, a street car is too low if you gotta worry about scraping. Since it's a daily driven car, make the daily driver aspects primary, and tracking secondary.