Ya....that's what I was thinkin too. I won't be swapping wheels nor pads, etc at the track (I'll be driving to and from the track- using the tires/pads that I show up with, etc.)..so I thought it might be kinda pointless to bring all that stuff/tools. I guess they would just be for emergency uses. But then again..when does an emergency happen on a stock and slow car, and with a slow n00b(like me)? Not often at all (unless you're off-roading in the desert..then you'd really need all the gear and tools you can bring).

..but, all my listed stuff isn't too much anyways..it'll all fit neatly in a plastic milk crate (sans jack/stands, chair & cooler)

Nice man! Sounds like you had a blast and also sounds like such a great and affordable deal! Must be fun to finally unleash the car's potential for extended/long times :D ...I'll def look into NASA.

I'll still try out AutoX...but I am really attracted to Track because of the much more extended times, going faster, straights and also less technical/sharp turns.

Wow great thread. Just caught up. Superb info, thanks to all for the great info and especially Mike!
Going for my first ever track/hpde event June 2 (/w instructor) at njmp lightening track, fully stock car, and this stuff has been invaluable.

Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.
 

Question regarding brake pedal feel after track day. Friends car with just ATE brake fluid all else stock, brake pedal feels softer and travels further down when pressed. This is after the pads have cooled down for hours. Is the fluid boiled? The day was cool(72f) and the pads only faded after two laps or so and then recovered after a little cool down. I thought the fluid would hold just fine :/

How much pad is left? Brake fluid isn't very compressible, but it will compress. The more brake wear you have the longer the pedal will be (more fluid in the system). While I've not noticed any issues, you could have warped the pad backing plates a bit and now there is some flex in the system.

Or, you just boiled the fluid a tad - quite possibly AFTER the last session, there is a ton of heat soak when you park the car.

Ours is the same (softer pedal, longer travel)after two days of HPDE, and I'm guessing fluid is the culprit more so than the pads. Plan on swapping both this week before my wife's track event this coming weekend.

Anecdotally, I notice fluid changes on my sportbike are more noticeable than pad swaps (like-pad for like-pad), that's why I assume a fluid change will fix your pedal feel more than a pad swap.

And +1 for the heat soak comment after parking...

Anyone using Speed Bleeders?

I used them on my EG and S13 10+ years ago (for both brakes and clutch), obviously for easier of bleeding/flushing.

Just wanted to hear if it's okay to use them, or if they should be avoided (ie: maybe they break easily?) ...but from what I've recently researched on this forum- most love them and there are only a very few that don't recommend them and advise against them (due to breaking and/or cracking, etc. because they are hollow and more fragile than oem...but I guess that's only due if you over-torque them).

I really want to use them again...it's so much easier/quicker to bleed and you can do it by yourself :)

Reporting back after half a day after the track day, the pedal feel is better and the stroke is shorter. Seems that the pads hadn't cooled enough. The fluid may have absorbed some moisture since it did sprinkle at the beginning of the day. I'll bleed and report back, also will check pad thickness. Thanks.

The fluid has deteriorated significantly. ATE is a bottom tier DOT4 fluid. I'd recommend you step up.

ATE Superblue/R200 < RBF600 = AP Racing < RBF660 = Ferodo < Endless < Project Mu G-Four < Torque RT700

Thanks, i used project mu before and never had an issue, its pretty good. Thanks for the advise.

Castrol SRF? Costly but safer for track applications and lasts longer

I guess both PMu fluid and also PMu Club Racer pads, would be the best bet for track days :)

That's not a bad idea at all ;)

The current SRF or the original SRF? The original SRF is a DOT5 fluid; it doesn't absorb water at all, so if you get even a little bit.... you're gonna be in trouble.

Note: I regularly drive cars with DOT5 SRF; the fluid is flushed monthly.

I remember 10+ years ago, many people used to "prop up" their hoods (and also remove the rear part of hood liner/seal) (example pic below), for supposedly better cooling. I actually did this on my old EG and S13 haha (yes, I'm a ricer); but Idk if this truly helped though (I only DD'ed, dragged and drifted my cars before ...so, I never really ran the cars hard enough for extended periods like you would on a circuit track, to see any real temp differences). I simply used new longer ss bolts and stacked up ss nuts inbetween the hood and hinges to give me about an inch of "prop."

Would this effectively/noticeably help keep engine/oil/coolant temps down on track days?

I wish there was some kind of a&b test (any links?) with hard data/numbers, of non-prop vs prop, that could prove this helps while out on the track. I'm sure it would be a simple test nowadays, with so many people logging and keeping track of their temps during sessions.

http://people.tamu.edu/~rico05/teh%20win/DSC00460.JPG