That last point is a good one, after Eric (EMGuy) and I ran my car last year, I immediately decided replacing the OE wheel studs was going to be a good preventitive modification. The OE's dont have a whole lot of thread engagment, especially if you run a wheel on the wider side of the allowable range to maximize track width. For people who are changing wheels every event and running often, probably a good idea to be precautious. We had some issues getting the aftermarket lug nuts started and wanting to crossthread.

Updated with Wheel information. I'd rather not rip off @DarrenDriven's work and he did it better than I ever could so referring people to his thread is the best way IMO.

Would crash bolts fall under special bolts in Rule E.? That would be inline with what you are thinking that F.2. is talking about aftermarket camber bolts and not the OEM crash bolts.

when i was looking for wheels i could not find the Tracklites 17x7" wheels
for sale anywhere. Are they available now?

I want them too, but I think the only option is lucking into finding them used?

Motegi doesn't make them anymore.

I use the Buddy Club SF Challenge wheel.
They have a perfect 17x7 +42 offset wheel in 5x100.
Their cheap and relatively light (about 17lbs).
Most importantly though, they have been in stock!
I wanted Enkei's originally, but TR keep having availability issues just when I was looking to buy. :iono:

arn't the stock wheels around that weight? not saving much really.

unless the replacement is in the 15lb range i personally wouldn't sweat over trying to find the right wheel

The proposed change is for a +-1" Wheel diameter, the width will have to stay stock still.

well, that doesn't make any sense!

but you're correct! i'll edit my post.

It doesn't have to make sense, or so it seems. It makes some kind of sense to the SEB I guess. The rest of us, well it doesn't have to make sense to us because we aren't "new blood". Nevermind the fact if it's illogical to us, it probably is to someone else with less clue about the sport than we have.....

It looks like he either didn't see your question or chose to ignore it.

Here are my thoughts:
Some of it is definitely production variances as well as inconsistencies between alignment equipment. There are some tricks too though.

One thing that I recently learned that may help some of those seeking more negative camber is to raise the front end of the car on the rack and then put a good size piece of wood under the outside portion/edge of the tire. Lower the car onto the block of wood. That will exert more pressure than you would ever be able to do by hand and added a few tenths more negative camber to my setup.

I have also heard from a reliable source of people who have gone so far as putting a car on a frame rack and tweaking the chassis to get the settings they desire.

Stock wheels are 21lbs.

The the lightest OTS wheels with the same size offest are the RPF1s (14.8lbs).

There is already some testing out there that says that there really isn't much time to be gained seeking the last 2-3lbs per wheel (for autocross).
I'm sure if you could find a 10lb wheel, some results would show.
YMMV.

Where do you draw the line between time to be gained? What's a little, what's a lot? If you are competitive this is a game of sometimes thousandths of a second. This car has little power, wheels are flywheels... the less weight you have, the better off you are. As cars get more powerful, and wheels and tires get bigger and heavier there is less difference because well... my Corvette can spin it's wheels pretty easier most anywhere, the FR-S cannot.

Rotating mass is worth approximately 3-4 times what static mass is. Additionally this is unsprung mass too (though I think that's a lesser concern especially with good shocks).

Sam, we all know that every little bit counts. I think that in stock class, there just isn't that many "little areas" for weight savings through the allowable mods (where parts are concerned) that can add up enough to make that extra 3lbs get you a reliable couple of tenths.

Just pointing out that there has been some data showing that a "little lighter" wheel ALONE didn't make more than a 0.1sec faster difference. Yes, races in this sport are won and loss with less than a tenth of a sec, most who have been doing this sport know that. But also a tenth of second is well within the margin of error with regards to driver repeatability.

If you lost the issue of GRM it was June 2011. I am sure you have it stuffed away somewhere.

Now if we were talking about STX or an SP, SM class I would be all onboard with shaving off every little bit, there are more areas there where all those small gains can add up.

You've been in the sport longer than most. If you know something about that GRM test that says their test was lacking or bogus, please enlighten me!! I want to learn!