Thanks! So how were you able to do -1.3* of camber in the rear? Or does it come from factory that way?

Why would you adjust at the subframe bushing rather than just evening the toe out through the toe adjustment?

I think it's important to note that you can only use OEM Subaru or Toyota crash bolts. Dedicated camber bolts aren't allowed in stock class.

I said OEM. I plan on finding the part # later to post in the OP.

I wonder if he was mistaken and meant Camber? Since toe is easy to adjust on rear.

Toyota: SU003-02818
Subaru: 901000394

When you get a chance, please add Whiteline 20mm bar under the front sway bar section as well as adjustable end links.

Also maybe a shock/strut tuning section that includes this info?
Corner entry over steer: Soften rear rebound
Corner entry under steer: Stiffen rear rebound
Corner exit over steer: Stiffen front rebound
Corner exit under steer: Soften front rebound
Mid corner over steer: Stiffen front bar
Mid corner under steer: Soften front bar

Doh, got distracted while writing and lost my train-of-thought... (is that the proper spelling of train in that context? Oh well) yes I meant camber.

Yet... if street class passes it would become legal in 2014.

With that said, would anyone in Street be daring enough to use something like the Whiteline 14mm camber bolt? I don't think I'm going to be that brave. Not to use daily, especially in MI. I will probably just slot one of the strut bodies personally once that allowance is legal.

Is the 14mm Whiteline bolt the one with the adjustable cam lobe? Are you worried that the bolt will slip?

I have OEM crash bolts and camber top plates and can get more than -3.5 (estimate). Without the top plates, I was only able to get about -1.2 with just the OEM bolts.

If they leave the adjustable camber plate allowance in the proposed rules, I will definitely be going that route (caster).

Since our cars are currently allowed to use the factory adjustable camber bolt, do the proposed rules imply that we can use those bolts along with the camber plates?

Nice! Thanks for the information! :happy0180:

My concern is those bolts are smaller diameter than OE in order to offset the holes with the lobe so you are reducing the capability of the bolt in that joint when it comes to bolt shear and clamp load. I'll admit I'm being a little over cautious, but I'm not interesting in taking a chance of shearing off a strut bolt on my 28,000 vehicle because I was trying to get an extra .75 degrees of camber with a $40 dollar fastener. Michigan's roads are particularly what have me worried about it more-so than an autocross or track setting where most places are relatively smooth and your inputs are mostly mid and low frequency inputs.

which top plate are you using?

I was a bit weary about using the OEM crash bolts for the same reason but since they are factory approved I figure they must have a decent safety factor built in even on the smaller bolt.

I was planning to use these, which are the same as the ASTs according the posts in the thread. But supposedly they maintain stock ride height.

The Whitelines also look nice, here, but they don't say anything about whether or not they maintain stock ride height.