PSA: Tips on what needs to be payed close attention on Fuel Pump install
 

Click for DIY for DW65c Fuel Pump Install. Awesome work @xxscaxx!!


So I made this post in my Build thread, but for the benefit of the community, I want to make it as visible as possible. (Direct copy and paste without quotation to make it easier to read)

So I know there are a lot of people wanting more information on fuel pump install.

I initially installed the Visconti pump and had some fuel issues. I removed it yesterday and installed the DW pump and noticed the issues I were having were NOT because of the Visconti pump, but install error (I take the blame for not veryfing :mad0260:).

Use this post as reference for things that need to be checked are in properly before finishing the install.

I will include a series of pics to explain why i had fuel issues. There is a DIY install on fuel pump, so for explanation on how to remove and re-install it, please refer to that guide. Keep note that there is a difference between the DW pump and ALL other pumps available to date. All other pumps (be it Full Blown, Visconti, etc, etc...) are longer than the OEM pump and don't really fit the OEM canister. You need to workaround that to make it fit. More explanatin below.

So this is the way the Fuel Pump Assembly should look. Notice on the right hand pic, the clips are all the way down and "clipping" like they should.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-m...p%2520Assy.JPG

Now look at my canister yesterday. Unfortunately I cut the Zip ties before taking the pic, but you can see where I needed to drill holes to hold the canister with the bigger fuel pump in place. Zip tie goes in the holes and up around the clip to hold it. I had to do this in the three clip locations (I took pic of each of them but for some reason I see only one in the phone gallery. :mad0260:)

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-R...0/IMAG0673.jpg

Next pic is the DW pump assembled and inside its assembly ready to go inside the canister.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-q...0/IMAG0677.jpg

Now pay VERY close attention to the below pic. Notice the fuel like inside the canister that looks coming off that green "dot". That line was routed differently when I opened my canister yesterday. The routing it had taken had it pinched against one of the clips. What this did was sometimes when I drove, the car behaved awesome with no issue. BUT other times, it would jerk and seem to stall even giving it gas, because of gasoline starvation. That fuel line NEEDS to be routed towards the bottom of the can, not above and U shaped.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-G...2/IMAG0678.jpg

Now notice how the black and red cables have a little spot to be routed. It is EXTREMELY important to route all fuel lines and power cable the proper way becuase they will get pinched if out of place.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-c...0/IMAG0679.jpg

Notice how the cables are around the black fuel line. they CANNOT go below the line because when you bolt teh assembly you push it down completely and that will pinch the black line against the power lines.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-q...0/IMAG0680.jpg

Its hard to tell, but if you look at the right hand side of the pic, there is a clip that looks to be just above where the black and red cables connect. Now from the clip look left and you will see that the clip continues left all the way to the canister. notice the black fuel line below. This is the pinch point I had with the line. Instead of routing it below, it was bent right there in a U shape.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-n...0/IMAG0681.jpg

One more look at the cable routing (It is pretty well explained in the DW pump instructions see above link).

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-E...0/IMAG0684.jpg

Finally, this is more or less what the assembly looks at the end. notice that with the DW pump, the clips DO CLIP in place, so no zip ties needed. Also, the DW pump includes the conector to plug and play, unlike all other pumps that you need to solder or crimp cables.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-l...2/IMAG0682.jpg

All in all, this is not a hard task by any stretch of the imagination BUT it is one of this tasks that you need to pay extremely close attention to detail.

The difference between the DW pump and all others is included connector for plug and play and the lenght is short enough for the pump assembly to clip in place (just like the OEM one). No need for zip ties or other work around to make it fit.

To install the Full Blown, Visconti or other larger fuel pumps, just drill the little holes and zip tie to them. There ARE Chemical resistant Zip Ties (can be found in one of the most awesome websites, Mcmaster-carr, click link).

The pros of the bigger pumps is higher fuel volume (at 280-290 LPH) compared to the DW 265 (yep you guessed right, 265 LPH). Also, for some reason DW does not have the most stellar reviews out there, while I can at least vouch for the Visconti pump that its top notch VERY high quality and great reviews.

Hope to have helped!! Hit me with questions!!


Edit: Below is my summary of the FP installs until I finally got it right.


Also, I've learned that the Visconti pump can fit in the canister and close with the original clips NOT using the OEM spacer and using only 3 O rings. Thanks to @killerkid08.

Thanks for the PSA. Have you replaced the big black gasket or do you just keep reusing the same one?

The one on the last picture, on the top part of the canister or the gooey one inside the car?

I have't replaced either but I didn't even think you could replace the one on the canister, that's why I ask.

Have you?

I think you can replace the one on the canister. The rib on the middle of it seperated the third time I pulled the pump out, so I removed that rib on mine. If I pull the pump again, I am going to order a new gasket. I hate the way you have to push the pump down while making sure the gasket is not getting destroyed while trying to get the white lock ring started.

I didn't have much problems the first two times (I had someone helping!) then yesterday by myself I had a hell of a time getting it to screw down. But that gasket thankfully has not moved out of place on me.

Oh and not only you need to hold the pump down while screwing in the lock ring, but also making sure the pump assembly doesn't rotate!! What a Pita.

Bump for Fuel Canister Assembly pics...

paid* ;)

great info, thanks for the pics!

I put the assembly lube all over my gasket ring seemed to help

The key here, again as I learned breaking it!!! :mad0260:, is to sit the canister inside the tank, grab the black gasket and slide it by itself over the tank, make sure its properly flush inside the tank and then push down to tighten the big ring. I was so stupidly easy to tighten the ring that last time doing this and ensures you don't break the gasket.

How in the world did you put the canister in then the gasket ill never know! Also if my problem of fuel cut continues ill have to try more o rings wish I could ditch the canister completely

LOL!! No, I didn't put the gasket after the canister!! I left the gasket in the canister instead of setting it down on the tank. Pay very close attention to your AFR gauge, as soon as you see it climb to 13 and up AFR at WOT, stop and that's probably it.

We used 3 o-rings and no spacer on my car also with the Visconti pump.

Wished I would have had the presence of mind of trying this first before buying a different pump. :mad0260:

So first time I filled tank with new fuel pump and I smell gas. Not happy boy. :(