911C4S and Audi A6 Corrected and Opti-Coated by Greg Gellas
 

Although not a BRZ or FRS, I thought I would share my most recent work with everyone.

I had two friends contact me for Opti-Coat application, one a new 911C4S, the other car was a 2012 Audi A6. They would be dropping off both cars on a Thursday evening and picking them up on Saturday, needless to say not tons of time. Both were going to get a 1 step polish then the Opti-Coat application, after inspection of the Audi we decided a 1 step wouldn't get the correction rate wanted, so we decided on a 2 step. With two days and a lot of work, I called up Anthony Onorato, he was able to come give me a hand on the Audi to make sure I got the work done for Saturday.

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I began with a wash, using Dawn and Chemical Guys Citrus Wash and Clear. The wheels got a good cleaning with Sonax FE, and the tires were cleaned with Tuff Shine Tire Cleaner. The condition it came to me in was less then stellar, the paint was full of buffer trails and swirls.

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Here you can see how hazy the paint was after the 1 step of correction. We were using surbuff pads and 101 on a Rupes LHR21.

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Here you can see the results after finishing down with the Rupes LHR15 using a Rupes yellow pad and Sonax Perfect finish.

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The B Pillars needed some work.

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After 1 pass we cleaned up most of the swirling and some of the scratches. Although we only did one pass, I felt that was all the correction I was able to get without a going through so we left them there.

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Even the tail lights got a good polishing to remove the scratches.

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We washed the car again to remove all the dust made from compounding. Here is Anthony drying the car.

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Once completely dry, and after a IPA wipe down, we started coating it using Opti-Coat Pro. All of the paint and trim got coated. The Tires got coated with the TuffShine Tire Clear Coat, and the windshield got an application of Opti-Glass Pro. Now the black on the Audi POPS, before it had a Gray haze to it.

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Moving on to the 911 C4s I did a wash using Dawn and Chemical Guys Citrus Wash and Clear. Here you can see that the car had some protection on it from the dealership.

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There were some light but noticeable scratches above the door on the roofline.

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One pass was not enough to get them all out.

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After 2 passes using Sonax Perfect finish on a PorterCable XP with a 3 inch pad, I was able to get them out. I then went over the entire car using a Rupes LHR15 mated with Rupes Yellow pads and Sonax Perfect finish.

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After another wash and then an IPA wipe down, I move on to applying the Opti-coat pro, you can't see my applicator, but I was using suede applicators from Car-Pro. All of the paint and trim got coated.

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Seeing that this is a new car, the owner decided to opt for the lifetime warranty that can be chosen with Opti-Coat Pro.

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I just love this color!

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Right as I snapped this final picture the clients walked in. :)

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As always thanks for looking. Greg Gellas :)

Amazing work Greg!

I have a few questions about Opti-Coat actually:

1) Can you explain the difference between Opti-Coat Pro and Opti-Coat 2.0? The Optimum website has made reference that the consumer version (2.0) is slightly different than the professional version but I've never seen anyone comment on how exactly the formulas (and results) differ.

2) Would you elaborate on the life time warranty?

I'm still debating on whether I want to go the traditional route (sealant glaze and wax by myself) or pony up for a professional correction/opti-coat application. The permanent protection is nice but I've heard mention that Opti-Coat wont be as deep as the sealant/wax combo. Although, your seeing your results... that may not always be true!

"What's the difference between Opti-Coat Pro and Opti-Coat 2.0?

Opti-Coat Pro is a more concentrated professional version of Opti Coat 2.0. It takes more care to apply and cures faster. If applied correctly, it should provide a thicker coat.. but will vary with application methods and amount used. If the same installer used both in the same manner, Opti-Coat Pro would be thicker. Professionals will prefer OptiGuard because they can give the car back to the customer sooner without concerns about exposure to the elements and it will reach full hardness faster so its ready for real world exposure sooner.

Consumers will prefer Opti Coat 2.0 because it applies like Opti Seal which is very easy. You can easily cover an entire panel before it flashes, you have more time to spread it over the panel before you'd have a problem, and if you do have a high spot that dries you can fix it by hand with Optimum Finish instead of needing a machine and compound. Less experience an effort are needed.

As for the resin, the attributes and performance are the same with both: improved scratch, chemical, and environmental resistance/faster cleaning with less effort/dramatically less chance of etching from leaving contaminants on the surface. It may still stain, but won't permeate like normal clear coat will even with waxes/sealants applied.

The main difference is cure time and thickness per application. Because you can layer both, there's no reason for a consumer to favor one over the other, but professionals should use Opti-Coat Pro for the reasons mentioned above."


With a new car, one that has been registered in the last year you can get the following warranty.
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This picture is BEAUTIFUL! it's wallpaper worthy!

Hands down!! Wana move to bay area? Lol

Excellent job, Greg! Both cars look great.

Excellent write up!

Greg what do you recommend as a starting point for the DIY'er that wants to get into detailling?

My goal is to know which tools to buy, which pads and consumables I need and what methods I should employ to keep my car in top shape.

@Greg Gellas-What is your recommended care/washing procedure for Opti? I had mine done a while back and while it still looks fantastic, I have noticed here and there some super light scratching. I'm assuming it's just from my microfiber chenille wash mitt and grit that I don't get 100% out with the 2 bucket method.

What should I be doing to prevent as much scratching as possible, and how can I try to lightly buff out what is there? I've heard ScratchX is a good option since it's so light duty.

Thanks!
Nathan

@SubieNate
If you use anything that has abrasion in it you will be removing the Opti-Coat. I would imagine the light scratching is in the Opti-Coat.

Washing Proper wash techinque can be long and challenging. I would suggest after wetting the surface, try pre-spraying with a Product like p21 TAW for really bad areas and let that dwell while never drying. It will make bug removal much easier.

Try switching your wash mitt out for a lambswool one, and replace it way more often than you would think ;) Every 3 cars for me gets a new wash mitt if that tells you anything. I don't want anything stuck in there. Hope this helps.