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Anyone know where I can get some ferodos cheap? So far brzparts.cm has them at 129.99 which is the lowest so far.
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If anyone is selling some better rotors with good life left locally I'd be interested in that as well.
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Jason, street light? How much does your car weigh?
(Just curious if you've dabbled in weight reduction. Im not complaining or trying to blow a whistle. You would be one less driver to have to beat ^_~ ) |
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I didn't record any video from the morning hpde, just data but here is a vid from my second fastest run. Completely blew turn 6 though. https://youtu.be/QHSQkFtYhiU Also the throttle and rpm feed flaked out partway through....I certainly didn't coast into 3. |
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Ferodo Pads are expensive, no way to get them cheaper really. $129 actually seems cheap. If you want to save some money, look at HP+ I have them for my street pads. I have 6 hpde/15 autox days, and a bunch of street miles. Fronts are at about 1/3 rears still over 1/2. Have a second set of used ones for when I destroy these. ahah. Quote:
Used rotors are a waste of money. Buy centric blanks off amazon. Quote:
It would be pretty hard to get a FRZ into light, need at least 140-170lbs removed depending on the model, with no added weight from other items. Plus, he should likely read the rules to determine what class that car is actually in with all those fancy toys he has ;) |
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Noted in green |
Fyi, brake dust actually comes from the rotor, not the pad itself. More aggressive pads create more friction on the rotor and actually "flake" off metal from the rotor. More aggressive pad... More dust.
I'm running HP+ and I've run them on the last two cars. I definitely want to try some different brands of pads some time, just haven't had time to research. |
scion frs/subaru brz car group in minnesota
hi guys! do we have a car group or club here in minnesota?:party0030:
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Actually, I think most of these folks are from the Dakotas too lol Gopherboy JDMNguyen K-at ... All Dakota guys heh heh |
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Im on the MNsubiez page on facebook. Ive been meaning to hop on the mn subarus. Hopefully better than MNHondas was lol
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I think the MNSubaru crowd is a hair more mature(?) and intelligent...just don't ask about stancing your car lol. |
Yeah its actually a lot better than the usual fb car pages. Not saying much, I know.
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we should organize one!lets meet up!shoutout to all Minnesota 86 owners here!:happyanim:
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The Dakotas are better 😜
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Saw you changed your reg :p now I have to beat another 86 womp womp
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And then there were three. Wanna give a ride along during the open lapping Faber? So I can copy your lines? Lol
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My car idles funny, and i put gas out of a green hose yesterday.... why doesn't it work?? |
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pfffff.... I got them MN plates |
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My street pads are HP+ I have 2 full sets. Not corrosive. The currently have 11k on them, around 18 days of autox, and 7 HPDEs. Fronts are around 1/3 left and rears are over half. Yes, they are dusty, but never had any issues with "rust" and the brake dust comes off pretty easy. I normally will clean the wheels off pretty good every couple weeks or after an event. Now.... The Hawk DTC line... those are really dusty, and corrosive and if the dust gets wet... FML |
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I'm going to be faster than Faber at DCTC because I cheat
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Then maybe I should be learning your lines lol
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I like the HP+ better then the DS2500, thats what I ran in my STI. They were dusty and noisy, but slightly less than the HP+. I have the DTC60s in my car for the time being. |
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He probably means by taking lines similar to that one lap you had near turn 2-3 ;) |
I'm just going to copy my gf's line
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Yep. Still only 3 three signed up. I know Derek will be signing up too but I'm still surprised it's only 3. I'm sure the day before it'll be like 5 late sign ups.
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My co driver will be signed up too... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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For autox, DCTC and similar, I think the HP+ is good. For full track like BIR, other big road courses, I think a higher temp pad is needed. But if you go too aggressive, you'll overpower "street" tires. Another thing to be mindful of when you go to a more aggressive pad (not saying you're having this problem, just general info), is that you have to learn to brake later and use more of the brake. A friend of mine said he was running DTC-something and was over heating them at BIR because he was braking too early and not aggressive enough - thus longer pad to rotor contact, more heat, more fade. Later, more aggressive braking = less friction time, less heat. There is of course a happy medium. |
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I was wondering if thats what he meant. I was going to make a 'ringer' crack.
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