Is your Injen intake gettin' ya down? Here's how ya fix it.
 

That's right folks. I was having a bad experience with my Injen intake, so I went down to my local auto shop, purchased some 3 1/2" pipe and fixed that shit. More specifically stopped the acceleration lag/bogging. Throttle response now feels like stock with the extra *umph* that the larger air flow provides. If I hadn't gotten the intake cheap, and the pipe cheap, this would have been a cash boat in its self.

Only problems I have come across are if you idle for about a minute or two the heat will build up and RPMs will drop ever so slightly, but never has it stalled. NO CELs thanks to the Unichip.

PS. yes I painted all the yellow shit in the engine bay.

Did you remove the plastic shroud that normally sits on top of the radiator?

Yes I did. Or are you talking about the foam that goes above the rad?

So you basically turned it into one of the true cold air intakes? Not bad for a DIY at all. Glad it worked for you. Everyone is starting to understand that the best CAI's pull from the bumper.

I think it looks much better, too.

Wow that thing looking f_cking ginormous!!

Nice, I was thinking of doing this myself after the Oil cooler lines rendered my Injen intake useless.
Can you take a closer picture of the radiator area where the snorkel tube ends? When I look at mine it dont look like there is a lot of space to fit a 3 1/2 tube in there, but it look like it worked for you.

Also, it looked like you purchased two 90 degree tube, and one straight tube?

Also, any noticeable difference in sound? cold air cai

AHHHH you caught me. That was the tricky part of this install. The area you are referring to I really had to think about what to do. Indeed the 3 1/2 chrome pipe WILL NOT fit under the white cross member, so what I did was took a 3 1/2 piece of plastic tube and cut it to about 2 inches long. Then I stuck two rubber connectors on it so that they fit end to end. Then I connected the two 90 degree tubes with this long rubber/plastic piece. You see the white cross member piece un bolts and is a very thin piece of stamped steel. It seems its only purpose is to hold the hood latch, and hold the bumper on. So when I got my piping done and I put the cross member back on the rubber/plastic piece was able to flex under the cross member, and be a little elliptical. So yeah it was tricky.

Awesome! Too bad I sold mine now, haha. And... Isn't that red, not yellow shit in the engine bay? One of us is color blind. lol

...I think he means he painted all the stuff in the engine bay that came yellow stock...as well as some other stuff obviously...

I mean, I painted all the yellow to red

Oh. Thanks for clarifying. I'm assuming that you just kept the Injen map with Unichip? Might give the Perrin one a shot as it's more like your setup now.

@ML

What did you use for your MAF/Vacuum line?

The original positions on the Injen pipe I'd assume.

That's right.

This looks really awesome! After doing this mod to the Injen did you also notice a difference in how the car pulls now compared to its original state as a sri? Or was the sri giving you such a headache that you really didn't get to see how it performed? Just asking because if I can find one cheap I'd like to also try this method. Thanks.

It was a real PITA as a SRI..lol, but it pulls about the same once you get into the upper RPMs. Its the throttle response, especially after up shifts and down shifts that is really noticeable.

So, you would say that it feels smoother than the sri? Thanks.

199%

That's def what she said

Hey you guys, just thought I contribute to this thread. Today I have completed my Injen CAI conversion, zero issues, no CEL, no stall, no funny rpm. The only thing I noticed was when I initially first started the car with the converted CAI, the rpm didnt immediately go up normally like it should, but that only lasted about 0.5 seconds and everything went smoothly after that(ECU had to adjust).

For my conversion, it feels like stock with no throttle lag or dead spot. The cold air gives the car a very very loud and deep growl when you WOT. It sounds really mean, there's no other way to describe it. I was able to make my neighbors who were chatting outside look at me with a smile :D as I safely WOT pass by them(It was actually an accident, I was testing the intake and they just happen to be there, im not a show off type of guy).

I bought cheap clearance ebay stuff for it, an OBX 3.5" aluminum 90 degree pipe, and a 3.5" 90 degree silicone was all I needed to make this happen, only cost me an additional $30 for the cold air conversion.

It was raining and getting cold so I had to delay the videos, tomorrow I will try to get a video up and loaded.

makes me happy I could help. Hope to see pics/vids soon.

^ Yeah I probably wouldnt have done it without your help. Glad you were the first one who ever did it, otherwise I would've sold the intake and regretted it. haha

EDIT
As promised, here are the pictures

http://imageshack.us/a/img27/7206/gopr0090.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img27/7206/gopr0090.jpghttp://imageshack.us/a/img580/4748/gopr0069.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img27/7206/gopr0090.jpg

Blurry I know, but you get the idea
http://imageshack.us/a/img837/1127/gopr0080.jpg

This has not worked for me, I still have bog after about 12+ miles after a flash, driving it hard for those miles, and turning off/on the car a few times within that mileage as well.

My tuner was right, it doesn't have to do with the airbox/heat shield so much as it has to do with the turbulence created right before the maf sensor as the piping shrinks right before it.

I'm still glad I made the make shift CAI, I did mine all out of silicone, I will eventually be doing my headlights, so it was good practice taking off the bumper + I installed my clear markers while I was doing it anyway.

If anyone has any suggestions for replacing the injen piping with similar dimension in terms of length/90 position, yet with different maf/piping reduction placement, I'm all ears, definitely don't want to have to move/touch the added piping I just put in.

can you take a pic of the front end without the bumper? and JUST the bumper off

just noticed the gold, is that heat wrap? make a difference? where did you get the material?

I was so pissed last night, I took a picture with just the bumper off before the piping install, then after adjusting it to my liking for a while, when I finally went back to take another picture, my phone was dead.

When I go to do my headlights(hopefully within a month) I will try to remember to take a picture then, but by then I will most likely have the injen pipe part replaced.

also just threw my first CEL, it only happened after I came to a stop and opened my hood to see if everything was holding together well.

I've never seen a CEL before, does it always throw the traction control light on as well?

only thing i can think of is maybe you have a vacuum leak because that coupler under the bar looks pretty oval.

https://www.google.com/search?safe=o...L9Hi4APC24D4DQ

I dont have any issues accelerating when my car is idle for 10 minutes so I think the material is doing it's job. Before I had the heat shield, the polished Injen would be super hot so I knew that I needed the heat shield, now it's not that bad.

I got it from here
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HEAT-BARRIER...133088&vxp=mtr

that's definitely possible, I may have to check that out, that pipe I'd definitely oval, did I not take something out or do something that you did to get it less oval?

My aluminum tube is a 3.5" 90 degree tube coupled with a 3.5" 90 degree silicone which equals zero oval. If you look closely at my picture above, you will notice I rigged my bay a little to make space for the 3.5 tube(Regretfully).

I did the same, but the bar is not structural so I doesn't bother me.

why regretfully?
not sure I know exactly what part you are referring to or exactly what you did if you care to share a lil more info about it if you can.

Absolutely, I took your picture for reference. I made mines flat using a vise grip, if you look more carefully, you can see what I mean. The picture is referenced to your stock unmodified bar while mines is modified flat to allow the 3.5 tube to fit

Can I also add that vacuum leak issues can only occur after the MAF sensor. Its due to un-metered air so even if you have a poor connection earlier, whilst not great due to by-passing the filter, it won't cause a CEL.

gold foil

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=1838

Works great as long as the surface is very clean.

Thanks, thats a good point! perhaps it is the MAF housing on the injen is bad, or maybe the MAF is loose or bad. Did you examine the inside of the injen tube prior?

Thank you so much, definitely appreciated!

So my CEL codes are c1201(traction related; don't know why/how that got thrown), p0172(Too rich!), and p117b(Direct Injector Fuel Performance).

Did bending that piece flat negatively effect anything? Why the regret?

Going to reflash and try to drive it moderately for the first few miles.

I had those codes popped up twice when I resetted my ECU and I still had my stock intake on the car, I still dont know why it popped up. I just used TorquePro and saved the CEL codes and removed the codes from the car. If it dont pop up again, your car should be fine, if it pops back up again, then something is definitely wrong.

Bending the flat piece will not affect anything, the only thing it will affect if you didn't do it right is the hood stick will not seat properly when you close your hood. The only purpose for it is to hold the hood, so just work on what needs to be worked on to make clearance for that pipe and leave the rest alone.

UPDATE: I notice after the CAI conversion that the car vibrates inside the cabin more now when I reach a certain RPM, somewhere around 4-5k rpm. Maybe the aluminum tube making contact with the radiator/bar has something to do with it, but no worries since I barely go that high anyway and once I pass that point it no longer vibrates.