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Lug Nuts, do they matter?
Gents/Ladies of the track,
Can anyone point me in an educational direction: what's the deal with lug nuts? There are a ton of options: open/closed, short/medium/long, light aluminum/heavy steel, two-piece/one-piece, many colors, etc. I can pick something purely from aesthetics, but I'm not sure what tradeoffs are worth it. For example, the stock BRZ nuts weigh 0.2 lbs a corner. It's tough to find lugs that light. Are two-piece lugs that much more protective of the rim? What is the durability difference between the different metals? Is there any reason for me to get long lugs? My personal context: If my BRZ is on WedsSport TC105N's as a three-season daily driver that may see up to 12x HPDE this year (if I'm lucky), is there any reason to go with a specific type? I'm currently waffling between the: - Rays Closed (0.3 lbs/corner) closed, short locking nuts in Gunmetal ~$159 - Project Kics R26 (0.45 lbs/corner) open, short locking nuts in Black ~$209 I don't need someone to make the decision for me, just looking for some background info from folks with track experience to lead me to sources for an informed decision. Thanks for your time. |
Pick what you like the looks of. $209 for lug nuts?:eyebulge: I could think of better things to buy than lug nuts for that kind of money.
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Longer lug nuts allow you to potentially run extended studs in the future. Closed lug nuts help provide additional protection against the outside elements. This can be mitigated with proper stud/lug nut care.
Two-piece lug nuts do protect the rim to a certain extent. Once you bake them enough with heat and stuff them full of brake dust, the two-piece lug will eventually seize and it'll basically act like a solid lug nut. Lug nuts come in a variety of materials. My personal favorites are painted chromoly steel and anodized aluminum 7075-t6. Titanium has its pros/cons. On our own shop CSG BRZ, we use our own lug nuts which are hot forged aluminum 7075-T6 anodized to MIL standards. @Captain Insano has a similar setup to what you're looking for. http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...t=25182&page=2 |
I bought these lugs for weight and strength. Ironically I now love the way they look.
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Go TiTek
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Please don't spend extra to save weight on lugnuts.
I like McGard Spline drives. I also like plain old regular lugnuts. |
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Yeah, looks like the price per/lb saved is redonkulous to go for lightweight. Just tough when you are proud you found 16lb wheels you like and then add a half pound of lug on there, lol. If I do it, it'll be an extravagance for the hell of it. |
The McGard are 32 grams each which is about .352 lb per wheel. I have the CSG ones which are about .203 lb per wheel. I am a fan of both but I can say I have used a set of mcgards for 5 years through many tire changes, heat cycles, etc and the still work great. I hope the CSG ones hold up as well. .15lb difference is really nothing.
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Not everybody is like me. I've done weight loss modifications on every car I've owned and I'm very anal about it. I know lug nuts typically are not looked at with weight in mind and it is not the first place I look to drop weight. But, if you are changing a part on the car. Any part on the car....
It all adds up. That's a half pound of rotational weight across all four wheels. I know by itself it is nothing. But add that to the wheel weight drop and other weight loss I've done on the car and it all adds up. And it is noticeable. I took the approach with this car that I was going to be extreme about weight control, that is what this particular car is all about in my mind. Lightness. But it is not just this car, I base this on every car I've modified, weight loss has a positive affect on the car, every time. No exceptions. Cumulatively it really does make a HUGE difference. Everything I change on the car, the first thing I look at is weight. It is not the only thing I consider, but usually it is at the top of the list of important factors per a given modification. |
I also like the McGard spline nuts and use those on my car.
The rotation weight of the lug nuts is very small, because they're located so close to the center of the wheel. Shaving the tires would probably give more rotational weight reduction (further from the center) than going from normal to lightweight lug nuts. Also remember that if lugnuts fail, you're in for a world of other troubles. If you go with lightweight lugnuts make sure they're quality product. Don't use ebay specials. |
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You can skip breakfast and you would be all that much lighter with the lugs. I bought light tires and light wheels too for those saying you can shave your tires for some more weight loss that would be "better". By your same logic light driveshafts and pulleys don't matter because they are small diameter. Sorry I disagree. I take weight into cnsideration on all parts. Again, everybody is different. To each there own.
As far as looks and strength go, I love the looks of these lugs and they are quite strong according to the mfg that tests their products on real tracks. Win win win for what I am looking for. And again to each their own. Doesnt bother me if you disagree. Just listing why I chose them. Good luck with your decision and happy modding!! :thumbsup: |
I like long strong lugs on my cars. I have ARP studs on them all. It makes wheels changes easier and they don't break, ever. I have Mcgard open nuts on two and they are great. I put buddy club long open nuts on the frs because they are good quality, cool, and go with the "ricer" thing. They are super light too.
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I have used VMS Racing lugs on a few cars now and no problems. Just need to make sure to torque them properly and not use an impact to break them loose. The ones I have for the BRZ are 19 grams.
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