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@createluck, any chance you can share the deltas for your CVR times between stock suspension and ohlins (noting any other differences like tires/etc?)
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Thats some esoteric suspension for the FRS/BRZ. Total crack money for those. Even my track only cars never had something that nice in them. If you buy these you had best be a serious speed freak and I'd like to meet you.
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@createluck is a cool guy. I've been running with him the last few events. I'll let him speak up, but I know for a fact he was 6secs faster with these Ohlins (than his previously fastest time at CVR). Same tires as before.
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I'm sure driver confidence went up too. Either way, he was 6secs faster and the time sheets show it. |
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I believe you but at 4k? Thats almost 15% of the cost of the car. Don't get me wrong I agree you get what you pay. Still... I drove an a track prepped S2000 with Motons that were 6k. And after you hit a certain price point it's like anything similar the only place you can tell the difference is the weight of your wallet. |
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We put $4k suspension on old beat s2000s. Could be an $8k car to begin with. Many miata owners are running AST/Xida kits which run around $2800...on a miata that might be worth $2500. Personally, I view all the parts on my car with their residual value in mind. Higher end stuff is going to keep its value better than lower end stuff. It's all just personal preference. Those that pay the money understand what they are getting and value that part of the vehicle. Most people wouldn't think to spend that kind of money (I used to be that way), but now that I have experience with them, I'd prefer to spend money on suspension over anything else on a car. |
Best price for a set 94066
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This car was designed for aftermarket suspension in mind. For example, our Buttonwillow times dropped from 2:04 stock to 2:00 with Tein SRCs as the only part change. Our Streets of Willow times dropped from 1:30 stock to 1:25 with Tein SRCs. 225/45/17 RS3s used in all instances.
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I've never driven a car with Ohlins suspension bits before, but I did ride a few bikes on the track with their parts. Boy what a difference! Had a difficult time negotiating the rest of the track back to the paddock due to the fact I'd jizzed myself. Parts of the track that was bumpy before the bike just floated over. Just plain magic. In the motorcycle circles Ohlins suspension bits are known to be top of the top shelf. I'd figure it'd be the same for the cars. :thumbsup:
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The last track day, on March 23rd, I had added a K and N air filter, Whiteline crossmember mount insert bushing, Whiteline gearbox bushing, SS brake lines, Motul 600 fluid, Ferodo DS 2500 brake pads front and rear, the Nameless exhaust, including front pipe and over pipe, Wedsport TC105N 17x8, Michelin Pilot Super Sport 225x45x17 tires, and a Grimmspeed Master Cylinder Brace. Granted, I had an exhaust leak, but as much as I had hoped it slowed me down, it was just my driving skill. My best time was a 2:17.9. The next day, at Chuckwalla was this past Sunday with the Ohlins just installed Friday. I was there on April 21st and ran only one session, due to the unfortunate accident. We also installed Whiteline anti-dive caster correction, Whiteline front control arm bushings, and Whiteline rear camber adjuster kit, which gave us an extra -.5 degree camber, in the rear. I ran a straight pipe and removed the exhaust. I do not have any tune. This resulted in a best time of 2:11.2. These last modifications were the only differences from the previous best time and resulted in a 6.7 second improvement. Since I lacked experience with the new set-up, I ran the tire pressures too high, which should result in some improvement. I need to dial in the rebound settings and I also have a lot to gain with better driving. I believe that the majority of improvement came from the Ohlins. Unless of course, I became a much better driver, in a few weeks! |
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