If I couldn't get genuine NGK, I'd pay the same for an HKS equivalent plug made by NGK. How much are the HKS plugs?

Somewhere around $27 a plug

Ishii

Been getting a lot of emails about these;
they can be ordered here for $26.97 a plug:
http://ishiimotors.com/engine/spark-...park-plug.html

(Insert P.T. Barnum quote here)

Hmmm, sounds like a weekend project. Pull plugs and check gap. So they are suppose to be .032"? Anyone got any other suggestions for gap? I'll take some pics if I can.

Sounds like a great weekend project. Take lots of pics and let us know what tools and methods you use to get them out. Generally you want the largest gap you can have without a misfire. As long as you aren't getting misfires, then keep the stock gap or take a chance and open it up a little bit.

With swivel sockets you can get in there. To make things a bit easier and give you some clearance from the frame, you can take the bolt out of the left and right engine mount and jack the engine up a little bit.

We have a local guy who has taken out his plugs around 3-4 times already as the car had issues from tuning, than he had his catch can hooked up wrong. The job takes about 2-3 hours to do all said and done.

I'm gonna try this without jacking the engine. The weather sucks right now, but if it clears out by the weekend, I'm gonna give it a try.

Replacing the spark plugs in the car with the engine in place is not easy.

You will need at min.
14mm spark plug socket (that does not grab ahold of the spark plug too tight)
two of the shortest wobbly extensions 3/8"
A thin flex head 3/8" ratchet
Another thin flex head and a 10mm short socket 1/4"

This is a 3.5 hour book time job. It is not entertaining and if you have fat hands/wrists then I'd say forget trying.

DO NOT put a 3inch extension in the hole after putting in the spark plug socket. You will have a very difficult time getting it undone!

Ishii

These are the tools I use for in place replacement.
http://www.141motors.com/images/S_plug_tools.jpg

I have a ton of shop tools and I have no clue how he did it without lifting up the engine. :iono:

The following took me about 30 mins. I already had my under tray off, so add about 5 mins or less for that.

Tools needed to check/change plugs:

• 3/8 Drive Ratchet
• 3/8 Swivel
• 2" Extenstion
• 14mm Deep Socket
• 12mm socket
• 10mm Socket
• 8mm Socket (for FA20Club Kit Clamps)
• Flat head Screwdriver
• Jack
• Block of wood
• Car lift or Jack stands
• Depending on what is installed on your car you might need other sockets or screwdrivers.
• Anti-seize for plugs threads.

Steps:

1. Put the car on a lift or jackstands.
2. Remove the metal engine under tray using the 12mm socket and flat head screwdriver for the plastic clips. (There might also be some 10mm bolts. I can't remember.)
3. Remove the (2) 14mm engine mount bolts.
4. Disconnect intake and any other turbo charge pipes that might be kinked if you jack up the motor. (8mm socket used on clamp to remove charge pipe from TB only)
5. Use a jack with a block of would on the head of the jack so you don't damage anything. I jacked up from right under the exhaust manifold where it bolts to the head. Jack up the side of the motor you want to work on first till the coils clear the frame rail.
6. Remove (2) 10mm Coil bolts and disconnect the 2 coil pack harness and pull them out.
7. Remove spark plugs with 14mm socket.
8. Check your plugs or replace them at this point. Don't forget to use a small amount of anti-seize on the threads and not to over tighten the plugs.
9. Follow the steps in reverse and doing them in the opposite of what they state to do.
10. Repeat all steps on the other side.

Would love pics of this lol



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Sorry, but you will need someone else to do that.

If you need pics for this then you should take it to a shop. It was ridiculously easy.

Compression test was just as easy. Took about another 30 min doing that.

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What compression tester and adapter did you use?

It's our shop snap on tester. It had an adapter to fit.

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