ROBISPEC Front ADJUSTABLE tubular lower control arms
 

FINALLY DONE WITH TESTING

last test over a 3" tall steel lamp base (plz don't ask it's embarassing)
TACOED the wheel so bad it was scraping on the Brake caliper and debeaded the tire.

these control arms are
rollcenter,
caster
track width
camber
and anti dive
adjustable

have bump steerable tierod ends too

NOW FOR SALE FINAL TESTING DONE
Proudly used by the Inovate Supercharged car at the Modified Magazine Ultimate street car Shootout.

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...ps0401014a.jpg
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...ps8adbeb91.jpg
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...ps2402b17e.jpg
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...ps6abd7091.jpg

These are HALF the weight of the stock item stiffer stronger and have a range of adjustment that excedes its usfulness..lol
Last edited by robispec; Today at 08:03 PM.

Awesome been waiting for these :happyanim:

Adjustable, stronger, AND half the weight. I like that.

Price? Also what type of alloy is used for the body and ends/joints?

VERY nice. Thanks Robi!

4130 body, tension tube and tabs DOM bearing receiver on outboard end.
We have been using aluminum ends as we are not running wheel to wheel.
These make weight with the standard steel endlinks.
$ 750 with the bumpsteerable endlinks

what sort of aluminum alloy is used for the end joints?

Can we get closer up pictures of the adjustable RCA section?

Can the track width be adjusted with the arm on the car? I ask because I notice there is only one locking nut so doesnt look like the joint can rotate to adjust without it being off the car.

Exact weight? I've seen the stock front control arms on the scale and its 5.9 pounds.

what sort of aluminum alloy is used for the end joints?
7075
Can we get closer up pictures of the adjustable RCA section?
I got what I got can correct roll center for up to a 4" drop from stock
Can the track width be adjusted with the arm on the car? I ask because I notice there is only one locking nut so doesnt look like the joint can rotate to adjust without it being off the car.
No I dont like the compromises in beam strength and the weight increases by making it adjustable "on the car" the 12mm bolt is easy to remove and the rod end is easy to index at 1/2 turn/side when needed
Exact weight? I've seen the stock front control arms on the scale and its 5.9 pounds.
I've weighed ten stock arms and they vary from 5.9 to 6.1
ours are 3.00 with steel rod ends
even if they weigh more the strength lack of flex and adgustability are the winners here! (imo)

sweet. can these be shipped with OEM mounting points already positioned so no need for end user to have to measure and mess around with adjustment?

Ummmm... I see Heim/rose joints. What are bump steerable tierod ends?
Ta.

was this a durability test for the control arms? how did they take it?

sorry the barrage of questions, but i think it may be useful for other users too.

i've noticed the front mounting (if picturing from the right side of the car) of the arm is offset so that it is mounted lower thereby the control is angled downward toward the front. Would this be a pro-dive setup? I would think you would prefer the offset the other way around to induce anti-dive. What are your experiences on handling/driving the car with either setup? And what do you prefer in the FRS?

Damn!

Sounds amazing; guess they are worth the money; will be third on my list.

MCA Coilovers, Whiteline Rear Lower Arms and now have found the front lower arms! :D

well unless you are making some rears as well cause this looks like a top product.

yes just tell me your drop from stock and I will mark the spacers Black on the top of the spherical (I will assemble them too)

RObi

Nice note....and yes we started much higher. We kept testing and found that the position you see is the fastest and really shortened up the braking zones as the weight transfer became better as the nose quit pitching down so hard. (as the pivot is lower the arc as the outboard end tries to go up the tension arm gets longer and this is what resists the diving action under heavy braking)
So it is anti dive and we have settled on a position 0.75" lower than stock.
(on a rear trailing arm setup going towards the ground is "anti-lift" or pro-dive)
it also provides "extra castor" as the wheel goes up in bump travel giving you extra dynamic camber on the side of the car that is experiancing lower ride height than static.

From a design pov, how do you feel about using 7075 aluminum ends mated with steel tubing? Any valid concerns of corrosion on the 7075 by itself or galvanic corrosion since its mated to steel chromoly? Im no expert on this btw.

we design race parts if someone were to be concerned for their specific aplication I would say stay with steel rod ends..the aluminum are an option for those willing to make sacrifices to get every ounce/gram off their car.

It should be okay as long it stays in a dry environment. It isn't as bad as I may have made it out to be. Salt water is what accelerates the process. Robi is from Socal, you are in Australia, whereas I'm from Chicago so the operating environments are completely different. This is why I'm extra nitpicky. Zinc plating the steel and anodizing the aluminum also reduces the electrochemical voltage dramatically.

keep me broke why dont you

added to my list of stuff to buy 100%, these will be on top in the 'must have ' pile

and thank you for this innovation

Would you by chance be showing these off and/or installing them at the next few FT86cup events? I wouldn't have the slightest clue how to adjust something like this...

Awesome piece though! More adjustability is fantastic but this goes a little beyond my knowledge of suspension geometry/performance.

Is there more specific information on what type rod ends are used? Like brand or part number

He had cheerio's for breakfast, enjoys long walks on the beach, and horseback riding too.

Give it a break, you don't need to know every detail about everything. They are adjustable control arms, nuff said.

yes

These look like a really nice part Robi! Thanks for all the time you've out into them.

will these be optioned with no coating? I have access to powder coating and orange doesnt match my ride... lol

I saw these in person. Very nice setup especially if you are really serious about getting every last bit out of your suspension on the track. Coupled with the GroundControl or various other caster/camber plates you really do have more adjustment than you would ever need on the front for fine tuning :w00t:

Sorry if my questions about the product annoyed you. It's just I'm going to be spending about $1500 on front lca, rear lca and toe arms. Theres a fair few brands floating around, so just want to educate myself on the differences and make the right decision as it is a lot of money. And I spose having more info available on a public forum will help other members draw there own conclusions too.

yeah saves you 50 bucks too!
(But orange is SEXY!)

No big problem with specifics. BUT you paint yourself in a corner. I have a product for the Evo and the bearing price has DOUBLED in the last six months if I want to maintain the exact part # and Manufacturer. If I keep the same specifications and quality but use any of 3 other manufacturers I keep my pricing stable...so stating a specific part can cause you grief..I've even had a bearing manuf HALT production....
THis is what my specification is I use "Racing quality" bearings and rod ends. They are run every weekend in major series and local stock/sprint car events. I use STANDARD bearing sizes to keep both the fabrication costs low and WHEN NOT IF you need to replace something it is easy to get and doesnt cost an arm and a leg! Every part is easily servicable, and can be adapted to many environments by using the correct metals.

We go as light as safe make evrything as adjustable as possible, and replace as nessisary..

I feel I can get my car to 2250 with "full interior" quotes because it will look like it but will be noisier and some things might not function (like the air bag system, ABS, A/C,)...

it would have been had i not gotten "stuck" with a red car....:thumbsup:

Thanks you for your informed purchase.

Robi

Sweet!!!!!!

How much caster can get with these?
I really like the look of them. Have to be my favorite front arms.

we are running over 8 degrees

Nice, any side-on pics of the car to show the position of the front wheel in the arch with a considerable amount of castor being added in the LCA?

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...highlight=robi
this is with 7 degrees (we also use castor enhanced camber plates)

How hard are these to adjust, given you've got camber, caster & RCA adjustment in there?

How street friendly? i.e. will those sppherical busings handle street use on somewhat bumpy roads well?

Lastly - where/how to buy?

Buy is evo4fun@gmail.com. Paypal address. Freight to the UAE?
adj. Easy on lift...lol harder on jackstand.
just nuts and bolts and spacers..give me your drop and ill preset them
9k miles on my car still going strong.. you have little rain to worry about. We even supply seals on request adds $26 to the part price.
But a Kevlar race with a nylon seal prelubed is hard to hurt.

@robispec hey mate.

I've sent you two emails and two PMs in the last week in regards to shipping my item for which I paid in March.

I noticed you have been active on the forums until even today so it could be you just haven't checked your gmail and haven't checked your PM inbox (dont see how this is likely though).

I am anxiously awaiting your response as I am very concerned about the extreme delayed responses. I did pay back in March :(

I am posting here because I don't know how else to reach you.