Pure Pricing?
 

I'm going to the dealership tomorrow to possibly pick up a brand new FRS. Only if it's within my price range.

I know with Scion Pure Pricing pretty much MSRP is not negotiable. Sticker price is sticker price and that is what you pay. However, where any of you able to negotiate any other factor of the deal? Such as the interest rate, DOC fee, etc?

I've only had credit since the beginning of the year so I don't have much history. I am bringing a co signer just in case they won't approve me by myself. If I can get a good interest rate, then I'll most likely be driving a new FRS :D

Interest rate is definitely negotiable. Try to call around to some banks and lenders and see what rates they are willing to give you, and set a goal of what interest rate would be ideal/realistic for you and try to go for it. At the time I purchased, I knew Subaru was giving 2.9% financing to well qualified buyers, so I knew I wanted Toyota to at least match that. I ended up with 3% from Toyota financing, after they tried to stick me with 4.8%

Im picking mine up Friday. Just bought a Raven A/T. Got mine for less than MSRP including fees and such. But maybe thats cause they dont sell much up here in NH?

I was in the same boat as you with credit, only about a years worth. A local credit union gave me 2.6 something %. Check with the smaller places as well as the big banks

Not true. If you qualify, you get this for free no hassle, enjoy! :thumbup:

http://www.scion.com/blog/2013/01/10...bate-programs/

that's if you qualify.
I don't graduate for another year and half :(

Another vote for a credit union! I got 2.4% from mine

If something falls and you end up not getting an FRS, you can wait a year and a half, by that time the newer slightly upgraded model should be released(hopefully).

But goodluck in getting the FRS, looking forward to seeing more members.

Bring a transcript, tell them you're going to graduate. Maybe they will count it. You are the customer base they are looking for. Can't hurt to ask, worth a shot...

Good luck, hope it all works out.

DOC fees and other BS fees vary in both amount and type from dealer to dealer. The fine print at each website should have it listed in the pricing section.

That's one of the ways I chose one dealer over another with the same car.

I guess I'll be #3 for credit unions, got 1.99% for 72 months from mine. Also a lot of members here were able negotiate extended warranties and some goodies, so keep that in mind if you're interested.

Penfed.org was offering 1.49%, I think it's at 1.74% now. I highly recommend them, but you do need to have a pretty solid credit rating.

The more you have prepared, the harder it will be for the Dealer to stick it to you. They will want you to get protection plans and extended warrantees. Stick to your guns and don't give in on those.

As for the loan, definitely go to your bank and get pre approved, then when Scion tries to give you their highest APR, you can say "no thanks". 9 times out of 10 when they see you are pre-approved, they will match the rate and you can choose to finance how ever you like.

Another thing I recommend is contacting your insurance company now to find out what rates you will be paying so you can prepare for that as well.

Hope to see you as an owner soon!

Yeah, you can definitely negotiate on interest. Get quotes from banks or credit unions, if you're a member (if not, find one you can join!). You may or may not get a better rate from them, or at least get better leg to stand on. I got 1.99% from my credit union (their lowest rate), Toyota offered the same and I said I'd stick with my CU. They immediately came back with 1.79%, so I took that.

You'd think so, wouldn't you.

Not so.

If you carefully read the Toyota/Scion website description of the Pure Pricing policy, you will find no mention of MSRP.

It is my understanding that the Pure Pricing policy simply states that each dealer will be consistent in selling each vehicle at the DEALER'S ADVERTISED PRICE, and assures buyers that no other buyer with superior bargaining skills got a better price ... until they lower the advertised price next Friday.

Apparently, each dealer is free to advertise any price he likes. It's America, it's capitalism...

And, in any case, dealers have a number of ways to increase their profit on a deal, not least of which is to give you a very low trade-in value for your car. They can charge ridiculous doc fees, unrestricted in most(?) states, "prep" fees, etc., etc. etc.

I suggest that one negotiate the bottom line out-the-door price without haggling about the details. "I'll buy this car today for $xxxxx plus my trade-in."

You will be offered the opportunity to purchase an extended warranty years down the road as your OEM warranty approaches the end of its coverage. Buy the extended warranty, if you wish (I wouldn't), at THAT time, NOT NOW.


Research the value of your trade, and call around, search the 'Net, for auto loan interest rates. Check credit unions since they often offer some of the best rates. You may need to deposit a few dollars in a savings account to become a member. It's simple.

Get a solid idea of what interest rate you can get, and negotiate with the dealer if you wish. They will often beat the best rate you've found. Make certain that there are no pre-payment penalties for paying off the loan early.

If you have a sufficiently large down payment, the new car should serve as collateral for the loan. If you lack this, then I'm sorry, but you're not in a good position to buy a new car at this time, despite how badly you want it.

Any co-signer for your car loan had BETTER be able to make YOUR CAR PAYMENTS as well as pay their OWN BILLS!

ESPECIALLY THESE DAYS, anyone, including a parent, is a FOOL to co-sign a loan for anything. If YOU cannot pay, then THEY must pay, else their FICO score will be trashed, and the lender will come after them. It will be every bit as much THEIR loan as it is yours. Except they won't have anything to show for the risk.

Do you have a GUARANTEED JOB awaiting? If you make enough already, you don't need a co-signer.

Tell them you DON'T have a co-signer, if they ask.

Dr. Laura Schlessinger wrote a children's book on ethics for those who disagree with this, titled "But I WANT it."