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-   -   MotoIQ: Tech Look at FR-S Underside - Suspension, Chassis, Brakes, Differential (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3002)

NESW20 12-26-2011 10:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by old greg (Post 104404)
When your rotors start turning blue, you might want to think about some ducting as well. :D

haha, yes, blue would clash with my color scheme on the car... :D

Dave-ROR 12-26-2011 10:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering (Post 104409)
The issue is the piston sizes are staggered....so you'll end up with nasty pad wear if you swap left to right (which you have to do in order for the bleeder to be on top). Fine for "the look" but not worth it for me.

- drew

I haven't messed with the STI calipers before, but some you can switch the transfer tubes and bleeder to fix that.

old greg 12-26-2011 10:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering (Post 104409)
The issue is the piston sizes are staggered.

Well that does throw a wrench in the works. I suppose the blank bosses will need to be drilled and tapped then.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR (Post 104423)
I haven't messed with the STI calipers before, but some you can switch the transfer tubes and bleeder to fix that.

The sti calipers have internal transfers.

JDLM 12-26-2011 10:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by subatoy (Post 104412)
unless you have lots of money to throw away thats the only way to go for most people.
I have WAY better uses for the extra $1k-$2k I'll save purchasing
the Rotas vs the original brands.
I have no need for forged wheels so Rotas are the way to go.

besides if you have that much money there are plenty of wheel companies that will make you a custom set with ANY bolt pattern you
may need so I still don't understand the whine about the pattern
.

Tell me something I don't know :bellyroll:

You make it sound like forged wheels are the only light weight wheels out there that are right : That is incorrect

You act like ROTAs are lightwieght (well that isn't always the case)

Dave-ROR 12-27-2011 10:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JDLM (Post 104428)
Tell me something I don't know :bellyroll:

You make it sound like forged wheels are the only light weight wheels out there that are right : That is incorrect

You act like ROTAs are lightwieght (well that isn't always the case)

They can be as lightweight as other cast wheels. LW cast wheel don't tend to be lighter than a LW forged wheel (ie a monoblock design like CE28s, TE37s, etc, not a forged 3 piece wheel which tend to be heavy). All performance wheel companies tend to have light and heavier wheels in their lineup.

Lots of weights of wheels are misleading with only one weight provided for a size, but they vary by offset at times too because the hub area can be thicker (my 5Zigen forged wheels are that way, they are forged but the +35s are ~.5 lbs heavier than +42s).

JDLM 12-27-2011 10:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR (Post 104546)
They can be as lightweight as other cast wheels. LW cast wheel don't tend to be lighter than a LW forged wheel (ie a monoblock design like CE28s, TE37s, etc, not a forged 3 piece wheel which tend to be heavy). All performance wheel companies tend to have light and heavier wheels in their lineup.

Lots of weights of wheels are misleading with only one weight provided for a size, but they vary by offset at times too because the hub area can be thicker (my 5Zigen forged wheels are that way, they are forged but the +35s are ~.5 lbs heavier than +42s).

If you would re-read my post I wasn't saying forged wheels are the end all be all wheel or only process for a light wheel

Dave-ROR 12-27-2011 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JDLM (Post 104548)
If you would re-read my post I wasn't saying forged wheels are the end all be all wheel or only process for a light wheel

I was replying specifically to the lightweight part. I never said you said anything about forged wheels, simply stating that they can be as light as other cast wheels but not as light as forged.

Blaster 01-16-2012 06:42 PM

I just want to know how low I can take it without royally fucking the geometry. I sure do hope they release extended balljoints and whatnot for this car.

SonnyBRZ 01-16-2012 11:32 PM

Let's hope RaceComp can work with AST or KW to develop a coilover kit within this year. :thumbsup:

duffman13 01-17-2012 11:44 AM

I'm just hoping for bilstein shocks with TRD/SPT springs and a camber kit (please someone make plates). keep it streetable and quiet with a little drop and firming up for handling and looks.

I could do Koni yellows too, but I prefer bilstein shocks if I have the choice.

7thgear 01-25-2012 10:27 AM

good article, thanks for posting.

86knecht 04-29-2012 03:45 PM

Awesome write up, lots of good information

86knecht 04-29-2012 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by duffman13 (Post 115739)
I'm just hoping for bilstein shocks with TRD/SPT springs and a camber kit (please someone make plates). keep it streetable and quiet with a little drop and firming up for handling and looks.

I could do Koni yellows too, but I prefer bilstein shocks if I have the choice.

Toyota uses Bilstein HD's on all there trucks and suv's so I think they will stay with Bilstein. The koni yellows are twin tube and dissipate more heat then a mono tube. Then they get soft because the oil is heated

NicoFRS 09-22-2017 11:47 AM

Hey so ik I might be throwing off a conversation but I am fresh meat in the aftermarket community. I come from an engineering background so Im not conceptually stupid but I am a beginner and might need an explanation as to cause and effect of certainmods on my build.

I am about to purchase a 2015 scion frs with 42k miles. My goal for this car is to basically make it a mustang killer and then maybe later add flex fuel and reinforced components on e85 and make it a GTR killer lol. Looking for about 300-320 at the wheels on 91 with a kraftwerks supercharger (maybe c30) and whatever I can get on e85 (have seen in 400-450 range with built motor)

I was going to start by asking the thread what should be the first steps that I can do easily myself. (swaybars, wheels, tires,etc)

I know before I go forced induction I should do some prep mods to support the added power. I was going to start with wheels and tires and a big break kit, then swaybars, then the supercharger. As of right now I don't want to change suspension if I can get away with it. I don't want it to be more stiff than it already is. IS THIS SAFE AND OK?


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