Quote:
Originally Posted by rice_classic
(Post 720623)
I have future plans of racing the FRS. I'm looking at a variety of classes and with different rule sets, that means I'm also looking a massive variety of costs. I'm curious about N/A potential in a racing only application but yet does consider cost vs reliability of build. I would like to build something that I can afford to build but also that I can leave at the track in a ball of fire without shedding too many tears. Cuz racecar.
So...
What type of power to the rear wheels is feasible assuming:
1: Mild engine works such as port and polish, blueprint and balance, maybe cams.
2: Lightened flywheel/pulley/driveshaft
3: Race tuning including some increase in redline
4: Race only Intake, header and exhaust (under 98dB) with no cats.
5: Pump gas. No E85 up here and I'd prefer not spend 10-12/gallon on fuel (since racing uses lots-o-fuel).
I know there's some tuners that have played with some race only headers and exhausts but I have seen anyone with ported/polished heads and I don't know what benefits that makes on Boxers.
I think those 5 things on the list would put the build within budget and are conservative enough a build that it wouldn't exclude from too many classes not to mention be reliable and if the car can make 200-215 at the rear wheels that would put me in range of competing in a pretty fun/fast and competitive class. I'd be really interested if those numbers could be made without step #1.
Anyway, I'd like to invite the parts manufacturers and tuners in to discuss what they think might be possible.
Thank you
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Kind of a tough one to answer, you should know that your build is limited to the rules set by the racing organization. What classes were you interested in entering for the FRS?
Exhaust and intake is usually an accepted modification for all classes, but internals like cams, valves, pistons, rods, etc, arnt always allowed.
IMO you want to get into the chassis & drivetrain building department to get the most competitive edge in any class and race.
If you were going for a time attack deal, running on 2WD Unlimited N/A, for power id ditch the stock ECU and go standalone, bump the compression even higher, raise the rev limit, port and polish heads, and lighten your rotating assembly, low friction parts, larger main port injectors, large aux port injectors, aggressive cams, sleeve the block, advance some timing, Bump ignition efficiency, oil cooler, dual pass radiator, dry sump, block bracing.
Rather than total peak power, id be more interested in getting the engine to respond more to input to plow through corners. To me, if your building a competitive N/A its not about speed, its about rotation.
