Oem amp connectors
 

Anyone have a clue where I may acquire the female side connectors for the oem amp. That's the side that's in the amp btw.

It's a standard old school Toyota harness:

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-1761-Wiring-Harness-Speaker/dp/B0002BEQJ8"]Amazon.com: Metra 70-1761 Radio Wiring Harness For Toyota 87-Up Power 4 Speaker: Car Electronics[/ame]

Of course the colors are different - you'll need to match the pinout with our wiring diagrams ...but it'll plug right in

Im looking for raw conncectors for the amp in the rear not a harness for the head unit. Im working on a custom project not for swapping the Headunit.

Do tell :D

I'm hoping you are planning a breakout cable. I think that would help the people that want to keep the head unit and integrate a DSP.

Nothin to really tell right now, still seeing if I can even find the things Im wanting.

The two sockets on the factory amp are the same physically as the power/speaker sockets on the HU. Thus, the same Toyota "forward" harness ("female") will fit the amp's factory harness plugs ("male").

As rmjjensen said, you might want to re-pin the aftermarket harnesses (easy to do) so the wire colors make more sense for the amp.

Is this the kind of thing that would work towards just adding an additional sub to the amp in back easily without pulling up trim/carpet from the HU?

No Shit!? I didnt realize it was that simple. I was wondering why he linked female connectors for behind the HU lol.

Thanks folks, just made things so much easier.

Your not gonna want to try powering a sub off the oem amp. getting the remote turn on is prolly as far as you would go. You would still need to run RCAs to the head tho. But, that takes maybe 10-15 mins.

If you have a BRZ, or any other model whose OEM HU does not have the sub RCA jacks, then yes you could tap into the inputs going into the factory amp (speaker outputs coming from the HU) -- to feed to the inputs of another amp to drive your bigger sub speaker.

You'll still need to grab the main power for your new amp directly from the battery, as usual.

If you want to replace the OEM amp with a small 3-channel amp (is there such a thing?) -- to continue driving the door speakers and add a channel for a new sub -- you might get away with using the OEM power wire.

I don't recommend trying to hang too much off the the OEM HU's amp remote turn-on lead. Until someone can find a service manual, there's no telling how much current each OEM HU can provide on that lead.

you can always just use the oem turnon with a relay tho if you need to turn on multiple devices.