Bushing install gone wrong
 

So I attempted to install the Whiteline Rear Axle assembly bushings today.

I've screwed up and cross threaded the large 19mm bolt at the passenger rearward attachment. It is basically seized half way in. The bushing isn't tight.

My first plan of attack is to get a new bolt. Get the old bolt out if I can and try and tap the nut up in the chassis. If that doesn't work I guess I'm going to have to cut into the member from the trunk and weld another nut in. I'm freakin sick thinking about it.

Anyway can anyone tell me the thread size and pitch for this bolt. Its a 19mm head. Thinking its 16mm X 1.0 or 1.5?? Needing to buy a tap.

Linked this picture from a DIY install thread. Apologies for its use if its a problem I'll take it down.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8465/8...cefe1a6d_c.jpg

Are you positive it's seized due to cross-threading? I ran into a similar issue with the passenger-side bolt that you're talking about. I messed with the alignment of the rear crossmember assembly (jacked-up, jacked-down) until the holes lined up a little better and I was able to get the bolt all the way in. It was a b*tch to get it all the way in but it did, and it's torqued to-spec. I would try messing with the hole alignments a little bit before assuming it's cross-threaded. Good luck!

nervous as hell about installing mine now.... good luck man

I'm positive it's cross threaded. I can back it out a little bit before it seizes and you can see the threads that are exposed all screwed up. When putting it in, using hand tools, it was somewhat tight and I just assumed it was friction to the bushings. Boy was I wrong.

Thanks for the Luck! I'm gonna need it.

Ordered a couple bolts today. I'll use those to determine the thread size and pitch and get a tap coming. I'll also have a couple flange nuts ready in case I have to resort to cutting.

Ugh, sorry to hear. Hoping you can get it sorted out with a tap and those new bolts.

You need a long reach tap or you're going to have to drop the subframe.

When installing these make sure the other bolts are loose so you can center the holes otherwise you risk side loading the bolt and screwing up threads.

I recommened using a lift for this, that way you can use a pry bar to align the holes, and a muffler stand to help support the frame while alll 4 screws are loose, its easier that way. I did mine in about 30-40min

I was planning on doing this on my own as well, but a couple vendors have actually advised me to have it done professionally since it can be a royal bitch to do right. I'm sorry you have to go through experience, FRSFirestorm, but I do thank you for providing me with more encouragement to have someone do it for me instead of a DIY.

Yes a long reach will be necessary. I'd already considered that. Thanks for the remind. Definately don't want to drop the subframe. I had the two rearward bolts loose. Assuming the two forward bolts would help maintain the aligment.

Don't have a lift but agree it would be most useful. The rear was sitting on ramps. I had the drivers side in and threaded in about 5 minutes. It went south from there.

I'm not a professional mechanic but I'm no stranger to wrenching. This screw up was really easy to do. Looking back I broke one of my own rules. I didn't start the bolt with my fingers.

Yep.. I haven't installed mine yet but since I'm fortunate enough to have access to a 2 post lift I'll be using that and a trans jack to hold the subframe.

That sucks man. Good luck and keep us posted.

Thanks, I will. Hopfully its short and sweet. Something along the lines of "ran a tap through it and it threaded right in." I'm not real optimistic though.

Make sure when re installing all subframe bolts to NOT FULLY TIGHTEN the bolts one after another. Thread in each bolt by hand (or hand tool) slowly in a circular pattern. Then gradually torque each bolt to specification.

indeed, this can be a job that requires some skill level, i'd say you had your turn. seek help before you go a cuttin, please.

1-do not use impact on these in or out.

2-go thru the forum and find a wrecked frs or brz and obtain a set of the bolts you need first
.
seriously.

3-BEFORE you go cutting into the car, try taking the old bolt out, get some PB blaster to make removal with breaker bar easier. get in there and look at the threads inside nut, they may not be as bad as you think, may be recoverable with a tap, be gentle, really gentle

4-if youre confident in your skills go to a shop that is capable - most any subie or import shop should be able to do this if the threads are good, otherwise I suggest a good frame and body shop for doing that sort of thread assessment tapping or welding correctly

5-try and see if you can get a fresh bolt to thread into the hole if inserted at right angle, or resort to tap, remove subframe if needed

I see no need to cut out that bolt. yet.