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Quick Tire Swaps and Rotations | Guide | DIY
9 Attachment(s)
Quick Tire Change/Rotation Guide
Problem: I figured I would dump this here as, I HATE swapping tires for events. Always having had 3-4 cars, I am always doing rotations, winter wheel swaps etc. And finally got sick of fighting. So I wanted a new setup that was quick, easy to transport and worked well. Please use the parts and guide as reference, chose your own setup vendors etc. Research: After to talking with a friend who works on a pit team for Spec Miata/SRF most of the guys use cordless impact wrenches, either by Snap-On or Matco. Clearly the cost of those tools is more than a seasons worth of tires, so I talked to a few suspension shops who do some team racing and settled on the following parts. Work Smarter Not Harder 9 minutes per Side Parts List:
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbToa2nqxKM&"]Tire Swap Test For Rotations and Track Days | Brownline Torque Wrench | Dewalt Impact Wrench - YouTube[/ame]
Photos of Parts |
Those are some cool tools.
I have a cheap Pep Boys, 24v Goodyear branded cordless impact. Surprisingly effective, and the battery lasted at least 5 years before I had new cells put in. Cordless impacts are definitely your friend at the track, Also, when your trailer tires explode on the way home from the track. Between a drive up ramp and the cordless impact, I can change a trailer tire in minutes. ********* Off topic, but I have found that a good percentage of D load range trailer tire failures are due to cheap rubber valve stems failing, They are only rated for maybe 50psi, not 65psi. They leak air, tires get hot, go boom. Use metal valve stems. It will save you from changing as many tires on the side of the road. |
I had an old Milwaukee 24v I just retired. It's a beast and can deliver a lot of torque. I replaced it with an 18v DeWalt which is tiny in comparison. I really only use it to zip the lugs on and off it doesn't quite have enough juice to break the lugs loose at 85lb-ft. I just use the stock tire iron to break them loose.
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I am using a Ryobi 24V Lithium... Works well.. Torques right to 78lbs..
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Get this or make you own:
http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?...umber=35-70000 Being able to jack up a whole side of the car from under the door is a HUGE time saver! |
I use one of these
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-c3-19...2&blockType=G2 Two batteries are enough for 10 full changes without straining the battery. |
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http://protechproducts.com/index.php...&product_id=57 |
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http://www.purems.com/Products/PROTE...-Lift-Jack-Pad 1006 not the 1007. Love them. |
Are these better than a hockey puck with a groove cut in it?
Serious question... I use a hockey puck. lol |
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If it works... stick with it.. BTW...I have to dig mine out (the hockey puck) and Retrofit it for the BRZ...Forgotten I had one for my old STi.. thanks.. Bill |
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Same principle. I bought the protech one originally because I was lazy. I've also found it to be pretty much indestructible and since its bright yellow easy to find in my messy garage. |
I have a bunch of pucks sitting around, never bothered to use anything besides the jack saddle for lifting the car. Hmm..
Normally I just use the lift instead. |
We use wood blocks with grooves for the lift and they are showing major signs of wear. I use these devices and they show no wear, they are basically going to be indestructible. So better than a Hockey puck, no I dont think so so unless those are prone to split over time, but they are turn key which is nice.
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