Engine block heater
 

just got an ENGINE BLOCK HEATER installed by scion yesterday. Even since I got it installed, I dont notice any difference at all in how fast the engine actually warms up compared to normal (without the block heater).

Is it supposed to be significantly faster or am I expecting too much?

Holy why so late ? I had mine installed in September . And as for your question I have no clue because its parked for winter

Because it doesn't get cold in the GTA and probably isn't even necessary. I'm not bothering with one, and I'm in Kitchener. I've only ever needed one once in 16 years living in southern Ontario, and that was because the car was old (more than 250,000km) and it got down to below -20, which is very rare here.

I need one because once I exit my garage im on the HIGHWAY and i do not think it is right to rev high (2000-3500rpm) when the engine is still COLD.

I do this every day and want to reduce unnecessary engine damage. Thats all.


Anyways, can anyone answer my queetion as to HOW FAST SHOULD IT REACH NORMAL OPERATING TEMP with the block heater installed? (not as.to why I ordered one or got it installed)

A Block heaters main objective is to keep the oil warm enough so that's viscosity is thin enough to flow when start up occurs. This is very crucial to the bearings in the first few seconds after start up. The oil will not flow below -35 Celsius depending on brand, which is why there are block heaters. In russia and northern Canada, before block heaters were invented people used to start their cars and drive them around the block every few hours, so that when they get up to go to work, their car would start.

I don't mean to sound condescending here, but did you plug it in?

Had many bloc heaters in the past and yes engine should reach normal operating temp faster when plugged at lest 2-3 hours prior to departure (using a timer will save you $$ on your electricity bill) if it's cold outside (below 0 Celsius...more likely at -10 Celsius or lower). This doesn't mean that the engine will reach it's normal temp in the first minute (takes a bit longer then that and each car/model is different).

Also make sure the plug works well (see spark when plugging it?) or that the electrical breaker doesn't jump (reset breaker in fuse box if it does).

Hope this helps...

Sorry, I can't answer your question, but it sounds like you should have went with a remote starter for this purpose.

Or just leave 5-10 minutes earlier, and hang out in the car while it warms up. My commute involves a 2-3 minute drive essentially through a parking lot out to the local expressway (a 90km/h road) and that's all I do since I can't afford a $650+ starter.

Like Gord said, the purpose is to save the engine, not heat the cabin faster.

That said, we can make some quick calculations:
Ambient temperature, -20 C
Engine temp when plugged in: 0 C
Engine temp when heating the cabin: 100 C

A block heater in such conditions will get you one sixth of the way along to a hot engine, so might shorten the time to a hot cabin by the same fraction.

I guess the concern becomes: how much safer is it to push the engine on a hard highway acceleration while it's at 0C, 10C, 20C, as opposed to -20C or -10C. 20C is essentially room temperature and at that point it's probably not too bad on the engine to do a hard run there. Most engines actually perform a touch worse under "heat soak" when they've been warm for a while (ie 100 C +) - if you're talking drag runs.

The ambient temp doesn't have any effect on wear, damage, etc. The key is engine operating temp. Just wait at least a minute after starting the car up before driving (the motor warms up faster by driving it and not letting it idle unnecessarily) and don't drive like an idiot while the car is warming up (ie. no full throttle or redline shifts). Once the engine is warmed up, then you can have at it.

I think you're mistaken, ambient certainly does affect engine wear, should the ambient temperature be below the oils pour point. This would cause the oil pump to starv, should the oil be too thick. But agree with the rest of what you said.

Cold starts - yes, agreed. I was referring to thorlius's post about driving in -20C vs 20C.

If due to the ambient temperature, the oil temperature is below its pour point, the engine may not even be able to turn over fast enough to start. The engine may not even be able turn over at all.

Oils are actually rated according to cold cranking ability, and oil pumping capability. This performance is characterized at temperatures above the pour point as they would not otherwise be measurable on solid oil. Pumping performance is actually defined at 5 degrees celsius lower than cranking performance to insure that if the oil is thin enough to allow starting it will be pumpable. For a 0W-20 oil these characteristics are all defined within the 0W part of the viscosity grade. A 0W-?? oil is designed by definition to start down to at least -30 C and pump down to at least -35 C. Different 0W-?? oils may perform better than this due to their design, but they must all be capable of at least this to be categorized as 0W-??.

The block heater keeps the coolant warmer, which in turn keeps the block warmer and oil a little warmer than ambient. This makes it easier for the cold battery(cranking amps reduce with temperature) to get the engine going fast enough to start.

We also have to remember engine oil is used for more than just lubricating the engine. It is also used(as a hydraulic control fluid) to control things like the variable valve timing.

If you have the correct low temperature viscosity for the conditions, sometimes it will be the battery that can inhibit starting as cranking amps are lower at lower temperatures. Old tired batteries can amplify starting issues at low temperatures.