I wouldn't run water in your cooling system unless you're planning on changing it often. The cooling system is more than capable and you're loosing the anti-corrosion additives in the normal coolant. And if you forget about the water and temps go below freezing...new engine block.

The oil cooler is smart, but unless you're forced induction, the 40-weight oil probably isn't doing you any favors. 5W-30 is probably more appropriate.

300LS is only needed if you have a clutch-type LSD, if you have the stock Torsen diff regular Gear 300 is fine. You should be fine with it for now though, it's just convenient only needing one type when doing fluid changes.

The DS2500 are more of a hybrid pad I believe, if you're really tracking hard you may want to upgrade to a better track pad. There are any number of opinions/options on that. I use the PMU Club Racers, lots of folks use Carbotech XP10/12, etc.

I'm going to be using the stock tires would the XP10's be too aggressive?

i used xp8 front ax6 rear with upgraded fluid and was happy. today i have a stoptech bbk up front and do xp8/ax6 still. i will be getting temp info for the first time at a new track on monday (unless it's rainy) - 5/6 of my track days this year have rained...

particularly being first time out, and i don't know how aggressive you've played around on the street or elsewhere, i wouldn't think you would be needing xp10.

i have oil posts here but a consolidated post using track data and the forester oil cooler is here - http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...topics/3739658

Just curious if you've determined what sockets you take, or do you just take a full compliment of 3/8" and 1/2" metric sockets?


I want to put together as small as possible kit for HPDE and AutoX.

You definitely don't need a full set of sockets. I think you can get away with about 5 or 6 starting at 12mm. That will let you tackle pretty much anything brake or wheel related.

Maybe a little. If you're on stock tires you can try the DS2500 for a track day or two (they'll be just fine for street/autox). I'm less familiar with the Carbotech line but if you're going to upgrade tires in the future, it doesn't hurt to have some overhead in the brakes. I'd recommend same compound front/rear.

I would at least start at 10mm, and bring a 12, 14, 17, and 19. I'd also bring at least an adjustable wrench. That covers pretty much the entire car minus the axle nuts.

I have a small tool bag always in the car with these: [ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005G5263I?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailp age_o09_s00"]Craftsman 8 pc. Metric Dual Ratcheting Wrench Set - Combination Wrenches - Amazon.com[/ame] (plus an adjustable wrench), air gauge, tread gauge, multi-screwdriver, and mechanic's gloves.
I also keep this in the car (originally bought to do the springs/struts): [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Kobalt-Xtreme-Access-drive-socket/dp/B008A24EES/ref=pd_sim_469_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=088CJ0804J87382A8Q 5A"]Kobalt Xtreme Access 14 pc 3/8 in drive socket set - Socket Wrenches - Amazon.com[/ame] and leave my large ratchet set at home.

I have a separate, larger "track day" tool bag where I keep a spare set of brake pads, unopened bottle of brake fluid, a quart of oil, and some random other stuff.

Not at all, but you will need a few runs to get used to the additional bite. If you street drive with them, then you'll get used to it before you autox.

I take these:

1/4
5.5, 7, 8, 10, 12, 14

3/8
10 12 14

1/2
14 17 19 21 27 32

I have a few others that are not FRS/BRZ specific as well, but these will cover 99% of what you need on the car. You may want to carry multiple versions (shallow/deep), extensions, swivels, and wrenches.

Awesome, thanks for the info.

Thanks for the advice.

The diff already has the LS oil, since the shop just put it in when they looked up the car had an LSD. Either way I'm sure it will be fine for the season.

I'll run coolant instead of water to see how the temps hold up. If they are still a little high then I will swap over to water and Mocool.

I'm going to run XP8's front and rear to start off.

For those with a BBK why did you upgrade over stock?

Upgrade to BBK happens for two main reasons: 1) to get extra heat capacity before fading when one does long sessions on track, 2) for looks (yes, because of this reason too :) - "OH NOES, still small brakes with not red painted non brand 8-pot calipers in my new shiny 20" wheels?!!"). Twins stock brakes are rather good, they held on track for upto 10min just fine, so for mostly daily driving with slight track usage one should be fine with just brake pads and fluid change. With steel lines & airducts - even better.
There are other reasons two, but imho of less importance in purchase decision. Eg. most aftermarket BBKs of NOT insane rotor size are lighter then stock, for some BBKs consumables, such as pads & rotors, are cheaper then stock.

The BBK will have slightly better economics when looking at consumables for track heavy users

i don't recall if i had any fade or not oem, i'm not the greatest at modulating them i think either. in any case,

1. got the stoptech kit for a steal
2. buddy made carbon ceramic rotors for mountain bikes, wanting to see if he could for car, this kit had 2-piece rotors to try (never did though)

and really, probably the biggest,

3. i can glance down and see how much pad is left. even taking off the wheel with the oem calipers, this is a bitch.

Reduced unsprung weight, reduced rotational inertial, reduced long term cost for heavy users.